Home constructed Drywasher powered by a Leaf Blower
by Jack "Tin Can Lid" Purcell / TTHN
Total costs will be less than US $ 100!
We are proud to present you this great how-to-plan, written by Jack including our great pictures (ha ha). But best is ... the thing really works out! Here's what a happy prospector said about it:
So what are you waiting for? Make one yourself, too! |
Tuff - E Toolbox |
Begin with the vinyl or impact plastic toolbox which can be purchased at e.g. Walmart The toolbox bottom serves as the air/riffle box. The top serves as the hopper/grizly when inverted. Step 1: Remove the wire which goes through the hinges on the back side of the box Save the wire. You will need to clip about 6 inches from each end and bend the end about an inch on each to use as a hinge which can be removed easily when the box is converted to a drywasher. |
Television Tray stand with PVC Pipe leg extensions |
Cut 4 pieces of pvc pipe about a foot longer than the legs of the tv tray stand ... the pipe should be of a size which fits snugly as a sleeve over the tv tray legs. The pvc will serve to lengthen the legs of the stand. Screw set screws (woodscrews) into the pvc to hold the pipe tightly against the metal legs. Later you will screw eyebolts into the bottoms of the pvc, front pointed backwards and back leg pointed forward to stretch between the forward and back legs to give stability to the frame. The length of the pvc pipes from the joint between the bars to the ground will determine the height of the drywasher. |
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Bar should be cut as tightly fitting as possible inside the edges of the margin of the tray ... bolts go through the bar, through the cloth and through the angle aluminium which serves as the riffles. Holes may be drilled through the sides and end and carriage bolts used to pull the sides of the riffle box tightly against the outer box ... wingnuts should be used for easy removal of the box. Cloth nests between the aluminium bars, on the bottomside of the tray, and the aluminium riffles on the top side ... held together by small machine bolts. |
Remove the tray from the toolbox and cut the center out of the tray. This ledge will serve as a base for the riffles and cloth. Use 1/4 inch aluminium angle moulding for the rifles. Drill through the angle and plastic of the tray to postion the rifles. Cut down one end of the tray to the level of the discharge riffle. |
TOP of Riffle Box |
Cut a 2 3/4 inch hole in the bottom of the toolbox in the approximate position indicated. This hole will serve as the inlet hole for the air. The hole should allow a 2 1/2 inch ID pvc long coupling to fit snugly inside. |
Cutaway view of side of toolbox (airbox) bottom |
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Saw a slot in the coupling on each side to allow the off balance fan strut 1/4 inch wide to pass through the coupling |
Strut (ends to be bent after strut is inserted) bend ends drilled for screw holes to hold in place against outer wall oc coupling |
Fan Disk Cut tin can lid with slots and drill hole the size of shaft for shaft hole. Bend slot edges to make turbine prop. |
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Cut wo pieces of 1'' dowel of broomstick and drill center shaft hole ... set screw inside to hold in place. Fanable is sandwiched between two pieces of dowel with setscrews hold blade in place and prevent free travel on shaft. |
Shaft Mounting |
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Fanshaft Detail |
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Two ring washers rest bellow the nacelle end of the dowel at the lower end against frame struts, and above the top dowel to assure shaft freedom when air pushes top dowel against top frame member. |
Top of Hopper |
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Side view - Top of box inverted to make hoper |
Top view - Indicating sleeding sheet, metal gate and discharge hole |
Improvise a bit here ... I'm not going to try to explain how I did it. |
Hanging Configuration of Drywasher to Frame |
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Front View and Back View |
Front View |
Back View |
Side cutaway view of riffle/air box |
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Off balance fan box cutaway |
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Lower frame strut should be positioned higher than shown so upward travel of fan stops at upper strut when air pressure is applied, and shaft at bottom remains in reeiver hole in bottom strut. |
Thanks again Jack!