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For sale bare boards for Delta Pulse/Sniffer XR-71

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  • if i am bi**es why you buy a board from me? there are much people who do DP. notice, i did not direct you in LRL forum
    as i usually do mocking over their blank-head superstition. i act honest. why you begin attack me now i do not understand?
    you kick me for the help i do every day here. thats is your thankfulness.

    i answer you. degradation is the main vector of your folk. cause you compare me with bi**es that dress up like whores .
    second step will be the appeal to moderator to stop your harassment.

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    • Let the insults fly back and forth. Meanwhile, It is interesting topic for me, the grounding of the pots is clearly shown to be R59, here you see in the pic.
      Attached Files

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      • Chuubaba, now your question has been answered. The box shield(or pcb shield) is connected to R60 and the pots shield is connected to R59 as I have indicated in the above attachments.
        So kindly get back to finishing your project, I am sure you will be very pleased with the results.

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        • DB those pics clear show the shield layer touched the pots enclosures at face panel (will be if in metal). you have to see.
          Attached Files

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          • Yes, I see. It all depends on what kind of pots you are using. For "normal" type pots, all the pot casings are connected with a single wire and must be grounded via R59. For the type of pots shown above in your pics, the pot casing is itself grounded to the PCB via the pot having legs connected to its casing. And also by means of the front panel as a way of shielding the pots from interference by the graphite layer, which is connected via R60. It is simple and easy to understand. The very NICE PCB has provided for all options, even for "dummy" like myself.
            Notice when I say "grounding" in this context, I am referring to B+ on the schematic.

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            • The important thing here is to calibrate the detector correctly and get it working to optimum performance.
              Then you can start thinking about hardware requirements.
              I think Chuubaba is thinking of having beautiful wedding dress before he even has a bride to put in it.

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              • yes DB. if i use plastic pots i put copper sheet under pcb. it is connected to shield point on pcb by wire. if i use metallic pots i take the sheet away
                because it is not necessary.

                Notice when I say "grounding" in this context, I am referring to B+ on the schematic.
                ----
                yes. 'Cold End' of coil connection. signed on pcb by letter 'C' - cold.
                'Hot End' is respectively where we get 'delta pulse' signal.

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                • Thank you dbanner for correcting me. We were doing such a nice step by step building and testing of DP and then suddenly I attached 1m x 1m coil and discovered low depth and then...... . Kt my elder brother I buy from you because you pose on the forum as a seller of deepest perfect DP REV 5.0. And my brother should not expect to harvest tomatoes after planting onion seeds. That's the last i am going to say.
                  Now i talk about the board. I have changed C3 from 15nf to 18nf as advised. Do i need to readjust PPS ?

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                  • Originally posted by dbanner View Post
                    The important thing here is to calibrate the detector correctly and get it working to optimum performance.
                    Then you can start thinking about hardware requirements.
                    I think Chuubaba is thinking of having beautiful wedding dress before he even has a bride to put in it.
                    I saw some impressive enclosures but they were too slim to fit the pots. I am still searching. Next weekend to market again.

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                    • Do i need to readjust PPS ?
                      --
                      not.

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                      • I have attached coil. If ( whenever) i turn the DEPTH pot to near full clock direction the RED LED is "ON" and sound also changes. Sounds like an elephant.

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                        • Click image for larger version

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                          • desolder Terminal Block Connectors. they has especial sides groves by which one inserts in another.
                            OPEN YOUR EYES.

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                            • Yes, they are made to join together if needed.

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                              • yup. needed. desolder them, join right and solder back. my board done for connected together blocks.
                                btw i got a board in repair and blocks were also splitted - people DO NOT want to understand simplest electronics rules.
                                Click image for larger version

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