ok good luck.regards
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wanted to buy: PI pcb fully assembled
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skookum, let me know what tuning data fixed you prefer? or, another way, if you are able to tune board yourself, have a o-scope, I will sell the board 'as is'.
frequency range - 600-2300Hz
pulse width - 10-75us (maybe tuned also 50 or 100)
sample width - 3-50us
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Hi,
No, I have no oscilloscope and I have never used one before.
I am not an electronic engineer, I earn my bread and butter as a weldor and a mechanic.
I do not know what frequency range is best or what pulse width or what sample width.
I want to use the detector on the beach in wet salty sand where my VLF detectors send a lot of false signals due to the ground mineralization. I want to detect coins and small jewellery at max about 30cm.
I do not want to detect large metal objects at great depth.
I plan to use a seperate power supply with a rechargable LiPo battery pack that will put out more than 12Volts - when fully charged it puts out about 14,1 Volts.
I would prefer a unit that can be crudely ground balanced or at least nulled or has the ability to switch back and forth from dry sand to wet sand without having to take it apart in order to change internal settings.
Never thought that it would be so difficult to operate a PI - and I have mastered my Whites XLT
greetings
skookum
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Hi,
Please, when responding to this post - do quote me a price.
It is of no use to me to just know what you have to offer but then leaving me in the dark regarding how much you want for it.
I will not make any offers what so ever - so if you can´t live with that, please let us not waste our time.
So far there was only one person who actually linked me to his hp where I could see a price.
I hope that you can understand my dilemma in that regard
Thanks in advance
skookum
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Hi,
You have more experience in the matter than I do.
I ain´t ashamed to admit that I just ordered the book from Clive Clynick "Pulsepower" to further educate myself regarding PI detectors because besides the 2 pages on the net from nuggetshooter there is actually very little info regarding the technical side of settings.
My last buy turned out to be a complete dud and the pcb is sealed with a big glob of epoxy.
Wonder how that effected the heat issue ??
Will try to upload some pics
greetings
skookum
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Hi,
The red and black wires are for power.
The unit is deader than a doornail - it runs with two 9 Volt batteries producing 18 Volts and diddly squat happens when turned on.
There is the slightest crackle in the headphones when you first power up but besides that - zilch, nada.
The coil I measured at the plug with an Ohmmeter and got continuity and a reading of 1,9 Ohms.
I will chalk this up as "buyer beware" when buying electronic articles through fee-bay and not picking them up in person before letting go of hard earned cash.
I`ve gotta take this with a grain of salt and just say : s..t happens - hope the next unit will give me better performance.
Greetings
skookum
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Originally posted by skookum View PostI ain´t ashamed to admit that I just ordered the book from Clive Clynick "Pulsepower" to further educate myself regarding PI detectors because besides the 2 pages on the net from nuggetshooter there is actually very little info regarding the technical side of settings.
Inside the METAL DETECTOR - Published September 2012
ISBN 978-0-9858342-0-3
There are 49 pages devoted totally to pulse induction detectors.
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Hello,
No. This way I have no external adjustment of threshold and delay(just an example) without having to open the case and using a screwdriver.
Like I said, I mainly want to use the PI on the beach and thus will travel back and forth from wet sand to dry sand which probably requires some changing of settings.
And searching the shores of fresh water swimming holes around my vicinity would probably demand other settings, even though I´ld probably use one of my VLF machines with disc for that kind of work.
You can correct me if I am wrong, but with the board shown above, I will have a detector with fixed values.
Now many here will probably think : what a dolt - can´t even solder an external pot onto a pcb.
Well that is true enough. Electronics are not my thing/strength.
This is exactly the reason why I posted this thread in exactly this forum where there are experts in the field who can do this work much better than I can.
I don´t even have a soldering iron under 100Watt and would hate to destroy the pcb by using too much heat.
I would be depressed by having destroyed the board. That is counter productive.
But my needs have been taken care of by a forum member and I thank everyone for their kind offers.
Greetings
skookum
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it was a pic I did years ago. I take it from archive.
the board will be with outer pots - MAIN (PRIMARY) DELAY, SECONDARY DELAY, THRESHOLD, S.A.T. SPEED.
I think that enough, because you do not say about your vision.
I wait your decision, then I will begin to retune the board and do what to do necessary. anotherway I do nothing with the board, no a sense for me.
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