Arduino Nano PI Main Discussion

[gallico58]

Hi Marty, I had the same problems as you, sometimes with nano did not see the com port in windows xp, I made several attempts then I don't know how I managed it.
if you can try linux.
on the web I found this explanation but I have not tried

"If you own an Arduino Nano 3.0 you may have connection problems, this manifests itself with problems so that the module is recognized by the PC once connected for example for loading a program.
The problem is due to the fact that Gravitech designers in the first models of the module (now the problem should be solved) have not left free, this is not connected to ground, the PIN 26 (test) of the U2 Type FT232RL integration which serves as an interface between the USB port and the ATMega 368 processor.
As reported on the device's datasheet, this pin must, for normal operations, be connected to GND. If you own an Arduino Nano 3.0 you may have connection problems, this manifests itself with problems so that the module is recognized by the PC once connected for example for loading a program.
The problem is due to the fact that Gravitech designers in the first models of the module (now the problem should be solved) have not left free, this is not connected to ground, the PIN 26 (test) of the U2 Type FT232RL integration which serves as an interface between the USB port and the ATMega 368 processor.
As reported on the device's datasheet, this pin must, for normal operations, be connected to GND."

https://win.adrirobot.it/arduino/ard...duino_nano.htm

[MartyJ1963]

@Gallico58, Thanks for the reply. I have tried everything with no success. The drivers I installed, multiple times, do not seem to work as the red light on the Nano continues to glow. I am at a loss what to try next. Thanks anyway for your help. Regards, Marty.

[surfdetector]

I couldn't zero the 5534 or get the -5v on the both ANPI's I built.

Hi Marty,

• Do you have +5 volts at TP4?
• What do you have at TP2?
• Your ability to zero out the pre-amp should not be related to the Arduino
• Check out this page
• https://ftdichip.com/drivers/vcp-drivers/

[MartyJ1963]

Hi Alec, Hope you're well! I already tried the drivers from FTDchip. No success. The first 2 Nano's I ordered had the ch340g chip installed on board. When I installed the Nano to the ANPI i could get +5V but not -5V. Then everything went wrong after that. The Nano died! I swapped out the LT1054 about 20 times then tried about the same amount of 7660's,,nothing. George offered to test the Nano for me and the NE5534's in case they're fake but I'm yet to get to town to post them to him. Really bad weather here at the moment. I'm just trying to install the drivers on another pc at the moment for the Nano's. Regards, Marty.

[Qiaozhi]

Hi Alec, Hope you're well! I already tried the drivers from FTDchip. No success. The first 2 Nano's I ordered had the ch340g chip installed on board. When I installed the Nano to the ANPI i could get +5V but not -5V. Then everything went wrong after that. The Nano died! I swapped out the LT1054 about 20 times then tried about the same amount of 7660's,,nothing. George offered to test the Nano for me and the NE5534's in case they're fake but I'm yet to get to town to post them to him. Really bad weather here at the moment. I'm just trying to install the drivers on another pc at the moment for the Nano's. Regards, Marty.

It's probably something really simple, if only you could find the cause of the problem. I've not had any issues programming the ELEGOO NANO 3.0 boards that I have here using either Windows 10 or Linux Mint.

Here are my settings:

Windows 10 with Arduino IDE V1.8.13
Tools > Board: > Arduino Nano
Tools > Processor: > Atmega328P
Tools > Port: > COM8

Linux Mint 18.1 Cinnamon 3.2.7 with Arduino IDE V1.8.13
Tools > Board: > Arduino Nano
Tools > Processor: > Atmega328P
Tools > Port: > /dev/tty/USB0

In Windows 10 there were two USB ports shown in the list, so I just tried them in order to find out which one was connected to the Nano. The easiest way to test this is to select Tools > Get Board Info. Only one of the selections will return any data.

Marty - Our friendly postie will take any letters or parcels when he comes to the door. You can buy postage online on the Post Office site, print off a label and attach it to a jiffy bag. If your postie is the same, it would save you a trip into town.

[MartyJ1963]

Hiya George. Thanks for the info. I don't know what the problem is but now matter what driver I try it doesn't seem to work. The port shows up in Arduino IDE but when I try to program the Nano it fails. The Nano has the FT232r chip and I have nstalled the FR232r usb uart drivers. When I go into Tools for the settings I put :- Board>Arduino Nano. Processor>ATmega328P. Port>Com3. Programmer>ArduinoISP. It gives an error and doesn't program the code. If I change Processor to ATmega328P (Old Bootloader) it programs the Nano but doesn't work on my ANPI Detector pcb. When it's plugged into the ANPI I get +5v on TP4 but only -2.56v on TP3. I get the 50us wave etc on TP2. Baffled? I'm using windows 7 64 bit. Thanks, Marty.

[6666]

Marty see email re nano

[MartyJ1963]

Thanks Bruce,,,I'll take a look and see if I can sort my Nano with that method. Thanks, Marty.

[MartinB]

Hi everyone. I'm having a real difficult time with my new Arduino Nano V.3 boards. The first 2 Nano's I ordered had the ch340g chip on board and I couldn't zero the 5534 or get the -5v on the both ANPI's I built. I received my 2 x Nano boards today that have the FT232R UART Chip on board and cannot get my pc to recognise them or install drivers for them. I have downloaded original drivers from FTI etc and other sites and still can't get the pc to recognise it or install it correctly. It's driving me absolutely daft! as I've been at this now for weeks! Can anyone offer any suggestions or alternative drivers or procedures etc please? Thanks, Marty.

Hi Marty
You certainly are having problems.
Send me a PM with your address and I will send you a pre-programmed Nano.
Kind regards
Martin

[6666]

Thanks Bruce,,,I'll take a look and see if I can sort my Nano with that method. Thanks, Marty.

I have found that some of these nano's bought at random from the net will not program via USB, but will program via the ICSP, at least you get to use the nano that way
I have found the UCEC brand from amazon work fine

[MartyJ1963]

Hi Bruce. I took a look at that link you sent me. I seem to be abe to follow that guy's instructions ok on extracting the Hex from the code. But, I'm uncertain about what to do with it after that? Lol. Do I use the USBasp to program the Nano with AVRDUDESS when I've done it? What I'm unsure of is how to wire it to the USBasp? My USBasp programmer board is what I made myself from a small breadboard, a crystal, a few capacitors and a resistor and a Zif socket. I glued the little 6-pin adapter plug to it that accepts the 10-pin USBasp plug. Uncertain how to do it? Thanks, Marty.

[6666]

Hi Bruce. I took a look at that link you sent me. I seem to be abe to follow that guy's instructions ok on extracting the Hex from the code. But, I'm uncertain about what to do with it after that? Lol. Do I use the USBasp to program the Nano with AVRDUDESS when I've done it? What I'm unsure of is how to wire it to the USBasp? My USBasp programmer board is what I made myself from a small breadboard, a crystal, a few capacitors and a resistor and a Zif socket. I glued the little 6-pin adapter plug to it that accepts the 10-pin USBasp plug. Uncertain how to do it? Thanks, Marty.

"Do I use the USBasp to program the Nano with AVRDUDESS" yes ! but I have never used it.
Hi Marty, yes just wire the usbasp to the six pins on the nano icsp, I have the usbasp as I showed in the link and the six pin adaptor just plugs straight in,
with the hex code I copy and paste the path into extreme burner , click erase, then click program,
to make it easier you can copy the hex file into another folder to make the path shorter, because the arduino IDE makes the hex code no fuses are needed,
the icsp pins give you access to the programming pins on the 328, so I assume it should be the same as if the chip is in the socket
You should see pin number 1.
They number left to right
top to bottom
pin 1 miso----pin2 +5v
pin3 Bck------pin4 mosi
pin5 reset-----pin 6 ground
I hope it works for you, but if you choose not to proceed , will understand.

[MartyJ1963]

Thanks for the explanaton and the help Bruce. I will have a look at it later and let you know the results. Regards, Marty

[MartyJ1963]

Hi all. fnally built myself a working ANPI. I just wanted to say a big thank you to George, MartinB and 6666 for the help they gave me while building this project. Quick update:- Beware of fake chips. I found that the biggest problem I had during my last 4 build projects (1xVoodoo/2xCrossbows/2xAMPI's) was using fake IC's. I used LT1054 in all 4 projects,,,all but 3 were fake,,and that was out of 3 full bags of 20 ordered way back when starting the Voodoo project. A lot of my NE5532's were fake also. The latest and biggest culprit though was the NE5534N. I ordered 2 bags of 20 when I started my Crossbow projects,,,all were fake. I ordered 2 more bags from dfferent suppliers,,,all were fake apart from 2 but they both gave different results and readings when trying to zero the voltages. I found one that fully worked out of every NE5534 I had bought since building the Voodoo and this one is now in my working ANPI. I am still awaiting arrival of some more NE5534N's that I recently ordered from a company in the Netherlands. They are described as ''New-Old stock'' and original,,,Hope they are then maybe I can sort the issues with the 2 Crossbows.
I also had a lot of problems with the Nano V3 boards I bought. The first 2 had the CH340G on board and the 2nd 2 had the FT232R USB ART chip on board.
No matter what driver I installed (I use Windows 7 64 bit) I could not get the Nano's to program or even be recognised by Windows.
I was then told how to go about extracting the Hex file from Arduino codes (by 6666) and was surpised by how easy it was to do. But, because I was still having problems with fake chips I wasn't able to verify the Nano's working.
A very nice fellow named MartinB kindly offered to send me a programmed Nano. At first I couldn't get my ANPI to work. So, I built a 2nd ANPI. As always, I bilt the project in stages and checked each step as I went along.
I still couldn't get my -5V. After trying over 50+ LT1054's I found one that finally gave me -5V.
When I got to the stage of Zeroing with the 100k trim (R12) ,,,nothing,,,the voltage wouldn't shift either way. Again, after trying 50+ NE5534N's I found one that worked!
After that stage everything flowed smoothly!
I still have to configure my PC to accept and run the drivers for the Nano,,,but till then I can always use the method I learnt from 6666.
Sorry for the long winded post but I just wanted to say a big thank you, mainly, to George, Martin and Bruce for their kind help along the way,,,that's what makes a good forum
Beware of fake chips,,,I'll only be buying from reputable sources from now on because it just cost me more money in the long run not to mention the frustration of it all!,,Lol.
Thanks again, Regards, Marty.

[MartinB]

Hi all. fnally built myself a working ANPI. I just wanted to say a big thank you to George, MartinB and 6666 for the help they gave me while building this project. Quick update:- Beware of fake chips. I found that the biggest problem I had during my last 4 build projects (1xVoodoo/2xCrossbows/2xAMPI's) was using fake IC's. I used LT1054 in all 4 projects,,,all but 3 were fake,,and that was out of 3 full bags of 20 ordered way back when starting the Voodoo project. A lot of my NE5532's were fake also. The latest and biggest culprit though was the NE5534N. I ordered 2 bags of 20 when I started my Crossbow projects,,,all were fake. I ordered 2 more bags from dfferent suppliers,,,all were fake apart from 2 but they both gave different results and readings when trying to zero the voltages. I found one that fully worked out of every NE5534 I had bought since building the Voodoo and this one is now in my working ANPI. I am still awaiting arrival of some more NE5534N's that I recently ordered from a company in the Netherlands. They are described as ''New-Old stock'' and original,,,Hope they are then maybe I can sort the issues with the 2 Crossbows.
I also had a lot of problems with the Nano V3 boards I bought. The first 2 had the CH340G on board and the 2nd 2 had the FT232R USB ART chip on board.
No matter what driver I installed (I use Windows 7 64 bit) I could not get the Nano's to program or even be recognised by Windows.
I was then told how to go about extracting the Hex file from Arduino codes (by 6666) and was surpised by how easy it was to do. But, because I was still having problems with fake chips I wasn't able to verify the Nano's working.
A very nice fellow named MartinB kindly offered to send me a programmed Nano. At first I couldn't get my ANPI to work. So, I built a 2nd ANPI. As always, I bilt the project in stages and checked each step as I went along.
I still couldn't get my -5V. After trying over 50+ LT1054's I found one that finally gave me -5V.
When I got to the stage of Zeroing with the 100k trim (R12) ,,,nothing,,,the voltage wouldn't shift either way. Again, after trying 50+ NE5534N's I found one that worked!
After that stage everything flowed smoothly!
I still have to configure my PC to accept and run the drivers for the Nano,,,but till then I can always use the method I learnt from 6666.
Sorry for the long winded post but I just wanted to say a big thank you, mainly, to George, Martin and Bruce for their kind help along the way,,,that's what makes a good forum
Beware of fake chips,,,I'll only be buying from reputable sources from now on because it just cost me more money in the long run not to mention the frustration of it all!,,Lol.
Thanks again, Regards, Marty.

Hi Marty
Thanks for the mention.
Always happy to help out if I can.