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Barracuda Legend Kit Problems
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Originally posted by Impulse View Postheres the data for 40106 pin 8 - 12,2,6,4 the delay trim is set at 12.5 ohms
here
[ATTACH]35371[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]35372[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]35373[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]35374[/ATTACH]
and the last one at 200us
[ATTACH]35375[/ATTACH]
Can you also show me the calibrator signal at 1mS per div on both channels?
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Originally posted by Impulse View Posto and i have labled this picture so we are clear as this is what the data sheet says
here [ATTACH]35370[/ATTACH]
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Originally posted by Old cart View PostCan you repeat the last acquisition at 1 mS? This still looks wrong. Does the delay trimmer have any effect whatsoever on the relative positions of ch1 and ch2?
Can you also show me the calibrator signal at 1mS per div on both channels?
also the delay trim has a slight affect in terms of amplitude not relative time or position
and by calibrator signal you mean the scope signal?
here
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Originally posted by Impulse View Posthere is the 1ms trace [ATTACH]35378[/ATTACH]
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Impulse, it would go in series with the delay trimmer in the place where the PCB has a Link between the two adjacent holes. You would have to cut the link with an exacto knife or something similiar and solder the 10K pot there using the center and left pins if they are facing toward you. BUT I don't think this is the problem. The 40106 is not working correctly. The pin voltages should be varying better -5 and 0 volts not just between -4.5 and -5.
Maybe someone who owns a barracuda could verify this.
It seems unlikely you would get two in a row that are not working. It seems more likely you either have a solder bridge, bad solder joint, wrong components, bad components, components inserted backward like diodes, or something similiar. If you have checked all those things then you try replacing the 40106 once again.
Did you ever check the supply voltages as mentioned a few posts above. What is your battery voltage?
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A couple more points the pot goes between the two pads that you can see to the right, and slightly down, from the delay trimmer when to board is held so you can read the lettering on the component side. Ohm between those two pads to confirm 0 ohms resistance. Also reheat all the solder joints on the 40106 socket as well as the delay trimmer . Some of those joints look cold. I don't know if you can make a clearer picture of the top and bottom of the board. Perhaps if you took it outside or used very bright light the depth of field of the camera would increase. What I need is very sharp images to see minute soldering defects. If you have an adjustable camera use small apertures like F5.6 or F8 or even larger. Use a shutter speed of 1/60 or faster if possible. In sunlight this should be easily possible. If you remove the 40106 from the socket you should be able to use to use your multimeter to confirm the components installation and values. Hopefully your meter also measures capacitance. If you do an more boards it is a good idea to install the components one section at time to confirm each section works. For example power supply, transmitter, timing section, etc. of course without a build doc this is tougher.
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Impulse, welcome to electronics. The repair you did looks fine. Have you been using the scope probes in the X1 or x10 position? If the X1 position try setting them to x10 and probing pins 2 and 4 of the 40106. Don't forget to change the scale factor settings in the scope interface to x10 so the readout will be correct.
I still need the measured battery voltage and the -/+ regulator output voltages.
When you air test disconnect the scope probes as they can interfere.
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