Originally posted by raygdunn
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Barracuda Legend Kit Problems
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Hey guys I have had a chance to look at the old board and I decided to swap it for the new board to see what result I got and I had no sensitivity to movement I had the delay pot at 10k and the delay trim at 10k, I have tried a depth test and I basically have to hit the coil with my gold ring for anything to happen so i adjusted pin6 to 0v and the sensitivity was 5 inches with the same ring but I have the same issue where I cannot move it ? Shame I had a glimpse of 'wait I think it might actually freeking work!' Bit no lol
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Originally posted by Old cart View PostVery good. I like to reference all bypass caps to ground. There are advantages in using caps to connect +to- but it intrudes common mode noise.
Abbreviated post as managed to lose the original...
I installed a replacement 40106 and amazingly all the unwanted spikes disappeared, and the current went down from 110mA to 90mA!
Usual pins before:
(A garden coil movement test seemed to have improved, only noticable on change of direction of swing.)
Sadly when I reconnected to grab an after image the spikes started again.. but much lower for now.
Gut feeling is that it gradually degrades with use. I am noting a spark like sound from headset on start up. I think that hasn't been there for long. Used to be a tone. I'm wondering whether there could be a voltage spike at start up.
Back to plan A and add those capacitors I guess.
Good range on a small GB 1p coin. so worth persisting I guess. :-)
Ray
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Originally posted by Impulse View PostHey guys I have had a chance to look at the old board and I decided to swap it for the new board to see what result I got and I had no sensitivity to movement I had the delay pot at 10k and the delay trim at 10k, I have tried a depth test and I basically have to hit the coil with my gold ring for anything to happen so i adjusted pin6 to 0v and the sensitivity was 5 inches with the same ring but I have the same issue where I cannot move it ? Shame I had a glimpse of wait I think it might actually freeking work!' Bit no lol
To illustrate this simply hook the scope to pin 6 of the 5534 and adjust for a good trace. No metal should be anywhere near the coil at this point. Now bring a large metal object like a pair of pliers near the coil and observe the change. Repeat with the ring. Tell me what you see.
then add a second trace 40106 pin two and repeat. The detector main ( target) sample is where the detector samples the signal. The more the trace moves vertically where the sample gate ( pulse ) is the better it will be detected.
You may note the the pin6 negative going pulse gets wider when a piece of iron is brought near the coil. This can cause a large vertical movement in the signal and a strong detector response.
An optional exercise is to adjust the delay and see the sample pulse move relative to the transmit pulse ( always trigger on the falling edge of the transmit pulse near the top of the positive going pulse). Take a shot where it disappears and the just reappears.
This is experiment should better help you understand how a PI detector works.
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Originally posted by raygdunn View PostHi Old cart,
Abbreviated post as managed to lose the original...
I installed a replacement 40106 and amazingly all the unwanted spikes disappeared, and the current went down from 110mA to 90mA!
Usual pins before: [ATTACH]35458[/ATTACH]
(A garden coil movement test seemed to have improved, only noticable on change of direction of swing.)
Sadly when I reconnected to grab an after image the spikes started again.. but much lower for now.
[ATTACH]35459[/ATTACH]
Gut feeling is that it gradually degrades with use. I am noting a spark like sound from headset on start up. I think that hasn't been there for long. Used to be a tone. I'm wondering whether there could be a voltage spike at start up.
Back to plan A and add those capacitors I guess.
Good range on a small GB 1p coin. so worth persisting I guess. :-)
Ray
That having been said few hobbiests have such a scope nor would I recommend that they get one unless they are very serious about electronics.
So so we have to use the scopes we have as sort of a compass to help us debug and set up the detector.
Do you happen to have a US nickel? That would be a good target for testing purposes. Lacking that we can go with a 1cm square section cut from an ordinary Coke can.
One last point, I did notice your transmitter pulse changed width. This is probably due to the fact the 40106 is a digital IC just to square up and invert a signal. They were never intended to be used as precision timing devices.
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For a good discussion how PIs work see here:
http://www.geotech1.com/pages/metdet...ead/HHv1p5.pdf
it is also good to buy a copy in Inside the Metal Detector described at the top of the forum. It is a great book!
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I found something interesting in my test with the ic and transistor for barracuda.. I found out that parts that from fairchild has a low performance. I place a fairchild cd40106 and i just got 10" on thin silver ring whisper sound at 10.5" but when i replace it with one come from texas inst. detection dept increase 2". Also in voltage regulator in one of my md L7812 from fairchid got extremely hot with a 21volts supply butvwhen it change with from IR regulator just warm. In power mosfet also fairchild doesnt perform well compare to branded one. I understand thier product because it come on a cheap price but if want to have a maximum performance just choose a branded product.
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Originally posted by jladre View PostI found something interesting in my test with the ic and transistor for barracuda.. I found out that parts that from fairchild has a low performance. I place a fairchild cd40106 and i just got 10" on thin silver ring whisper sound at 10.5" but when i replace it with one come from texas inst. detection dept increase 2". Also in voltage regulator in one of my md L7812 from fairchid got extremely hot with a 21volts supply butvwhen it change with from IR regulator just warm. In power mosfet also fairchild doesnt perform well compare to branded one. I understand thier product because it come on a cheap price but if want to have a maximum performance just choose a branded product.
changed and that can easily change the depth of detection by 20-30%. If you have a scope it would be interesting to see the follow:
transmit pulse width- 5534 pin 6
main sample pulse delay width and timing relative to the transmit pulse above. -40106 pin 2
earth field sample 40106 pin 4- same parameters as above
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Originally posted by Impulse View Posthey guys i still have no PC i have a new hard-drive on the way i will not give up!
if i buy a fisher f2 concentric coil would that work well with this board? (if i use the outer coil) as these are cheapish and should be well made?
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Originally posted by Impulse View Posthey guys i still have no PC i have a new hard-drive on the way i will not give up!
if i buy a fisher f2 concentric coil would that work well with this board? (if i use the outer coil) as these are cheapish and should be well made?
Sorry about the PC, I have been thru this myself and it is no fun at all.
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Originally posted by Old cart View Postkt315 is right. While it is theoretically possible to use a coil like this you have to really know what you are doing and probably have to cut the coil pen to modify. Not recommended.
Sorry about the PC, I have been thru this myself and it is no fun at all.
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Originally posted by Impulse View Posthey guys i still have no PC i have a new hard-drive on the way i will not give up!
if i buy a fisher f2 concentric coil would that work well with this board? (if i use the outer coil) as these are cheapish and should be well made?
You would be better off buying a PI mono coil such as a Garrett Seahunter MK2, which are relatively inexpensive.
http://regton.com/10-x-14-elliptical...r-mark-ii.html
http://regton.com/garrett-8-coil-seahunter-mk2.html
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