Barracuda Legend Kit Problems

[Old cart]

A couple of more hints. Generally it is good to put the trace marker (number on the left side) right on the nearest graticule line when communicating remotely. This just makes it easier to see. When you are in front of the scope there is no such need. Also you have cursors, those funny dashed and solid lines in the menu, available to help. You will find there are horizontal lines to measure vertical amplitude, vertical lines to measure time, and both horizontal and vertical lines combined to measure both amplitude and time simultaneously. I recommend you start placing them on the traces at important places like at peak values, at the edges of pulses, etc. This will help facilitate communication. However you must accurately manually place the cursors to get accurate measurements. Later you will want to learn to use the measurement system to produce more accurate measurements. However, I would continue to confirm all measurements with the cursors until you have it all sorted.

It is recommended to run signal path compensation before you do any critical measurements. To do so remove all probes from the scope then let it warm up at least 20 minutes. The proceed as directed in the manual.

[Impulse]

Hey oldcart i have adjusted the first of the pos blips to about 10us it is quite hard as the signal is kinda jumpy but now i cannot replicate this situation using the scope after a while the 'blips' end up 30-40us out as the 9640 warms up? (it gets warm not hot)

see here





also

[Old cart]

Impulse in that last image ch 1 looks wrong. Is this pin 2 of the 40106? If it is try instead the junction of c11 and r20. Double the trac height and overlap the traces.
I am using Kt315s Schematic he posted ( post 30 ) on this thread. Regardless, it appears the sample is now too far forward. No adjustments should be attempted until the circuit warms up and stabilizes. A good general rule of thumb with electronics is as long as you can hold your fingr on a component it is not too hot. That having been said cool is better if the circuit design allows it. What do you mean when you say the signal is jumpy?

Look at the trigger level it is close to the noisy top of the waveform. Drag it down to where the signal is nearly vertical and non noisy. This will give better trigger stability.

[Old cart]

Impulse, what you are looking for is a rectangular pulse about 45uS wide. It should very close to the rising edge of the NEGATIVE going pulse on pin 6. On everything is warm this should be set so the pulse appears to start right when the pin 6 pulse is returning to 0 volts or just a little before that. The image I have attached is an inverted version of what I am talking about. Your 45uS pulse should start about at T5 but you will have to tweak +/- a few uS from there.

[Impulse]

ok i have circled pin2 of the 40106 or the test point i used and where i think Junction c11 and r20 is? by jumpy i mean the small pos blips are moving around the top of the pulse erratically and it is hard to see what any adjustment is doing.

here

and here is the list i have just so that you can see what i am referencing

[Old cart]

ok i have circled pin2 of the 40106 or the test point i used and where i think Junction c11 and r20 is? by jumpy i mean the small pos blips are moving around the top of the pulse erratically and it is hard to see what any adjustment is doing.

here [ATTACH]35318[/ATTACH]

and here is the list i have [ATTACH]35319[/ATTACH] just so that you can see what i am referencing

Those pins look right. Try the r20 c11 junction instead. You should see more prominent spikes there. I would prefer to use the gate signal but for some reason it is distorted.
what is was looking for was a schematic, not a parts list. Let's just use KT315s schematic.

[Impulse]

ok here is what i see at c11 to R20

[Old cart]

ok here is what i see at c11 to R20

[ATTACH]35320[/ATTACH]

Getting better with your settings! Change trigger to neg slope, drag trigger level so it triggers about half way down falling edge (1 volt) . Can you move trigger position horozontally? If so move trigger position about .5 div from left. Set time per div at 5uS. What we are trying to do is increase the resolution on the slow rising edge.

[Old cart]

When you adjust delay are you changing r10 ( the 25k trimmer) or the delay pot?

[Impulse]

no i cannot change the trigger position horizontally ok tigger is neg slope now tigger level 1V and time/div 5us.

here

[Impulse]

When you adjust delay are you changing r10 ( the 25k trimmer) or the delay pot?

r10? is the 25K blue pot on the board that says 'delay' under it ?

[Old cart]

Well let me think-the last trace is unusable. There is no rising part of the waveform.

[Old cart]

r10? is the 25K blue pot on the board that says 'delay' under it ?

so there is only 1 delay trimmer and no external off board delay pot?
as for the image this is not the right rising edge. I need the rising edge after the 45uS. Can you maybe grab the waveform and pull the whole waveform with the mouse to the left? Best to start with the setup before this one.

[Old cart]

Well let me think-the last trace is unusable. There is no rising part of the waveform.

It appears I was looking at the 6952 manual where it does have trigger position. I guess the 6022 does not. I wonder if it just a matter of software? Unless you are very experienced with the PC it is probably best not to try the higher end models software.

[Old cart]

ok i have circled pin2 of the 40106 or the test point i used and where i think Junction c11 and r20 is? by jumpy i mean the small pos blips are moving around the top of the pulse erratically and it is hard to see what any adjustment is doing.

here [ATTACH]35318[/ATTACH]

and here is the list i have [ATTACH]35319[/ATTACH] just so that you can see what i am referencing

in the parts list you attached here they describe a 10 K pot that is presumably an external control with a knob on it. Do you not have this? The general difference between a trimmer and what is called a pot is that a trimmer is typically a screwdriver adjust, a pot is a hand adjust. They are both actually potentiometers.