Originally posted by WM6
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TP2 at 7V
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Originally posted by green View PostHave you looked at the +and-5v with a scope? Don't see how can get 7v unless 78L05 is bad or leakage across input to output pins of 78L05.
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Originally posted by Tibuck19 View PostMaybe this could help solve the problem, R21, 10K is reading as 8K and r22 56K is reading as 22K. And they are the correct resistors.
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Originally posted by green View PostWhy would R21 and R22 effect +5v supply? Maybe a stupid question, what voltage would you read if the 78L05 was connected reversed?
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Originally posted by Tibuck19 View PostI'm looking for the problem and going around the hole board and those two resistors are the only two that are off specs and even after testing a new resistor (47K which is the closes I have) and replacing it , it still drops down to 22K, the 78l05 is in the correct way unless its a slik screening error which is next to impossible.
I know they should be the same as when you measured them with reference to TP10, but just humor me.
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Originally posted by Qiaozhi View PostWhat are the voltages on the 78L05 outer pins with reference to the middle (0V) pin?
I know they should be the same as when you measured them with reference to TP10, but just humor me.
George, the exact same voltage get from TP10 the output pin is at 12V using the input as -0V and the common pin is at 7V . this might be normal loll but when i have the probs on TP3 and try putting thr ground lead on TP10 I get a tiny spark, It has to be something Silly
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Originally posted by Tibuck19 View PostGeorge, the exact same voltage get from TP10 the output pin is at 12V using the input as -0V and the common pin is at 7V . this might be normal loll but when i have the probs on TP3 and try putting thr ground lead on TP10 I get a tiny spark, It has to be something Silly
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Originally posted by Qiaozhi View PostIn that case, it looks like the 78L05 must be faulty ... OR, there's a short somewhere that's putting 7V on the output pin. I would try disconnecting the 78L05 output pin (just snip it off with some side cutters) and measure the voltage between TP10 and the dangling output wire of the 78L05. I suspect you'll find it's +5V. If not, it's faulty. Then measure the voltage between TP10 and the pad where the wire was originally connected. Is it +7V?
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Originally posted by Tibuck19 View PostGeorge im sorry I looked at the wrong one the 78l05 AKA U3 is at 7 and 9 V and I keep saying the 78l05 when I mean the 79l05 ,Gesss am I ever going to get it right for pete-sake loll , As I mention before I already replaced the 79l05 U1 not the 78l05
Please can you re-state the current situation with the power supply voltages. Which ones are correct, and which ones are wrong?
What do you mean by "78l05 AKA U3 is at 7 and 9 V"?
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Originally posted by Qiaozhi View PostOK ... now I'm totally confused, and probably so is everyone else.
Please can you re-state the current situation with the power supply voltages. Which ones are correct, and which ones are wrong?
What do you mean by "78l05 AKA U3 is at 7 and 9 V"?
OK! Sorry if I got you all confused, I am getting 7V on TP2 When I measure with TP10, on 79L05 which is located on U1 I get 12V on the input and 7V on the common using middle pin as gound, Measuring 78L05 which is located on U3 i'm getting 7V output and 9V on the input using middle pin as ground . I am using a multimeter and not the oscop for these readings.
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on 79L05 which is located on U1 I get 12V on the input and 7V on the common using middle pin as gound /// 12 - 7 = 5 GOOD
Measuring 78L05 which is located on U3 i'm getting 7V output and 9V on the input using middle pin as ground/// 9 - 7 = 2 Toast Your getting 2 Volts to much thru the Regulator. Replace it.
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