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Here's some info on the SMT Bandito board;
The layout files as JPG's and a viewer to look at the
Sprint? original file
The layout files as JPG's and a viewer to look at the
Sprint? original file
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Here's the lay file in a zip; -
Here's a zip file with the components list (oops resistors and caps only) and a shopping list
(only resistors so far) and the schematic I will use. The component list shows some values
that are different on Chemlic's schematic. As the board is basically an updated Golden
Saber I'd suggest using values closest to what that board uses.Comment
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Here's a filled out Component list;
Components list:
R1-1.2K
R2-12K
R3-20K
R4-47K
R5-10K
R6-10K
R7-2.2K
R8-200K
R9-100K
R10-100K
R11-200K
R12-430K
R13-1K
R14-20
R15-5.1K
R16-150
R17-100
R18-150
R19-82K
R20-1K
R21-10K
R22-20K
R23-100K
R24-20K
R25-20K
R26-5.1K
R27-5.1K
R28-100K
R29-100K
R30-1K
R31-20K
R32-20K
R33-20K
R34-47K
R35-100K
R36-100K
R37-100K
R38-2.7M
R39-200K
R40-2.7M
R41-470K
R42-1K
R43-1M
R44-5.1K
R45-1M
R46-5.1K
R47-47K
R48-47K
R49-620K
R50-620K
R51-10K
R52-150K
R53-1K
R54-4.7K
R55-4.7K
R56-1M
R57-1M
R58-200K
R59-200K
R60-2.2K
R61-100K
R62-20K
R63-100K
R64-10K
R65-??
R66-200
R67-1K
R68-10K
R69-27K
R70-10K
C1-470nf
C2-47nf
C3-??
C4-100UF
C5-100UF
C6-220Uf
C7-10Uf
C8-220Uf
C9-100pf
C10-130PF (22pf)
C11-??
C12-180pf
C13-22pf (10pf)
C14-18pf (8.2pf)
C15-33nf
C16-120pf (39pf)
C17-220nf
C18-30pf (22pf)
C19-100nf
C20-100nf
C21-100nf
C22-10nf
C23-10nf
C24-10nf
C25-100nf
C26-??
C27-??
C28-10nf
C29-10nf
C30-0.47Uf
C31-0.47Uf
C32-22nf
C33-22nf
C34-100nf
C35-10nf
C36-100nf
C37-0.47Uf
C38-4.7Uf
C39-4.7Uf
C40-??
C42-100UF
IC1 - CD4024
IC2 - 2931A (LDR)
IC3, 6, 10 - TLC22262
IC4 - CD4066
IC5, 8 - LM393
IC7, 9 - MC33178
4 - 2N3906
3 - 2N3904
9 - 1N4148
2 - 1N5819
Disc Pot - 100k
GEB Pot - 50K
Threshold Pot - 100KComment
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Tips on soldering surface mount components.
Get the smallest tip for your iron that you can find.
Get some solder wick (preferably thin like 1/8" 3/16")
Get a good set of tweezers to hold the parts.
Set the component next to the place you will solder it
in the correct orientation.
Put a small bit of solder on one pad.
Set the component in place trying to hold it perfectly positioned (a magnifier can help).
Heat the pin and solder, this will tack the component in place.
You can still change the position by heating the one soldered pad.
Make sure it is square on all sides and flat against the board.
Solder another pin. This fixes it in place. It is now hard to remove so it better be right!
Now solder the rest of the pins.
If the pins are tiny and close you might make a solder short, that is OK.
On tiny pinned parts we sometimes flood all the pins then remove the excess.
The way this is done is to use solder wick.
Try to solder quickly with minimum solder and remove excess quickly to avoid
heating the part too much. You sometimes take too much back out so doing
it quickly allows more to stay behind. A good joint has a filet to the board.Comment
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Doing a little research and these seem to be the correct cap values;
C1-470nf
C2-47nf
C3-??
C4-100UF
C5-100UF
C6-220Uf
C7-10Uf
C8-220Uf
C9-100pf
C10-22pf
C11-??
C12-180pf
C13-10pf
C14-8.2pf
C15-33nf
C16-39pf
C17-220nf
C18-22pf
C19-100nf
C20-100nf
C21-100nf
C22-10nf
C23-10nf
C24-10nf
C25-100nf
C26-??
C27-??
C28-10nf
C29-10nf
C30-0.47Uf
C31-0.47Uf
C32-22nf
C33-22nf
C34-100nf
C35-10nf
C36-100nf
C37-0.47Uf
C38-4.7Uf
C39-4.7Uf
C40-??
C42-100UF
The suspected values were read in circuit. Then later they were removed and read properly...Comment
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Looking forward to this detector. Be nice to compare to the IDX which is very similar. People who have had a Bandido love and miss them will be interesting to find out why. Seems to be the forgotten Tesoro on this site
Cheers for all the hard work quite a few seem to have been made (not surface mount) via a German website which sold a PCB for them
http://www.microsofttranslator.com/b...topic%3D9655.0
just reading through the forum at the moment to see if there are any more pitfalls.
See the power draw of the IC's is critical as some have used subsitutions that are better but draw more current then have trouble with the power rails.
Also the original appears to only supply just under -3 volts and some people have used two schottky diodes in the PSU to fetch it up to -4 volts but can't see if this causes other problems
After all the original worked fineComment
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Some more information on this forum under the TGSL mode CMS tread including one mistake on the legend
http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...787#post156787Comment
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Well on the negative supply. I'd try to get as much voltage as possible just because it
seems right. At work we use similar circuits and we get 4.1 - 4.7 for the negative supply.
I'm going to use the schottky's to get a better output though on some units we put a diode
in series with the battery and use the far side as - 0.5v for just a tickle of negative voltage.
We clamp the signal at 0.6v at the second filter stage anyway so it might not matter much.
I had tried to come up with a way to drive the negative voltage generator with the direct TX
frequency. A question, why did they use a pass regulator when there is not enough voltage
available? Usually you use that to throw away excess voltage....Comment
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Resistor pads are 3mm x 1.5mm does that mean 0805 (2012 metric) are going to be the best fit
Would this be a good choice
http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/era8...6/dp/1717745RL
metal film and available in quantities of 5 and quite a range of sizes
Looks like Tesoro did not use tight spec components
Quote from another forum
"and just how well it worked. That is the tricky part because I found there to be quite a variance between batches of Tesoro's of the same model. If I ordered in let's say 10 units of the same model, like the original Bandido, I might discover that 1 or 2 would be a bit wimpier than the average unit, and 1 or 2 might be a 'hot-performing' specimen. I was a Tesoro Dealer (obviously) at the time and I checked out every unit that came in prior to sale to ensure everything worked."Comment
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Yes 2012 would be 0805 but the ones you linked were 1206. Did you get your pcb from SilverDog?
I am waiting for mine but would like to see the pcb (both sides) to plan my parts list and verify
which schematic we are working to. I found a German schematic this morning that uses the battery
check circuit that's in the layout. It's different from the original Carl one and Chemelec's.
I read the earlier models worked better than the Bandito UMax. Probably because of the power setup. My
plan was to build it into a housing from a Tracker IV. It already has 2 9V batteries so maybe some improvments
can be made? I wondered why they didn't use +-15V for the old op amps to get the max headroom. There is a
lot of dynamic range in the return signal. Instead they compress the heck out of it and then trigger on mv's.
The variation you talk about appears in most detectors. I think that's why some say each one is great
and some say each one stinks. I had a Radio Shack that worked pretty good but the coil was advertised
to be waterproof, well it wasn't and when I brought it back they exchanged the whole unit. The new one
just didn't work as well.
The coil will make a difference too. Ivonic said 1 out of every 4 coils he made was just not quite as good. The
beauty of making it yourself is you can tune it for a long time to make it the best it can be. The commercial
ones get a 1 minute test and then are off to be sold...
Here's that schematic;Comment
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Yes I have the silverdog PCB looks very good and much better than trying to etch my own.
Can take some better photos in daylight if you need them
97.5mm x 71mm
pads 3mm x 1.5mm approx for resistors
4.4mm x 2.1mm approx for caps
Yes I read also the original Bandido was very good. There were 4 Bandido's the most desirable ones were the original and the last. The last Bandido II umax was slightly deeper but the original had crisper sound on good targets and less chatter in iron infested ground.Comment
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for the capacitors I take it that 1206 (3216 metric) is the best size
can only find a few metal film in either Polyethylene Naphthalate and Polyphenylene Sulphide in limited sizes
Same with the Resistor 0805 (2012 metric) can find some metal film but not every size
at Farnell and RS
Don't see the point in scrimping on components if there is a stabilizability advantage have to look elsewhereComment
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Those photo's are good. I was just checking to make sure my docs matched. It looks like the circuit
matches the last schematic I attached. It uses a slightly different battery monitor.
For the components I have found some values are not easy to find in some sizes. The caps seem to
be different sizes depending on value. I have different sizes / values available at work so I can "try
before I buy" to make sure to order the correct ones. It's hard to tell from the pictures but the pads
seem larger to me. A too big component can be used but is hard to solder as the pads are underneath it.
Here's a link on pad sizes; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface-mount_technology
Looks like 3mm x 1.5mm = 1206 for resistors
4.4mm x 2.1mm =1806 for caps
So 1206 should work for bothComment
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I have decided to get this enclosure mainly due to the ease of making a waterproof cover.
I built a really nice enclosure for my IDX with a separate compartment for the battery but attached it under the stem this has made it very difficult to waterproof and also very easy to knock the controls. Have spent half an hour on the beach at night wondering why I had no signals before I realized that the disc was turned all the way up
Weathers is good tomorrow so a trip to the beach with the IDX not been out detecting for about a month.Comment
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