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  • #16
    Originally posted by ShinyGoldPT View Post
    Yeah... My bad... Tibuck, that seems correct, can anyone verify it please?
    here is another useful link for the TGSL http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...ground+balance when I first put a GB pot nothing work because I was using all the throw holes and all the leads on the pot, but in reality you only use two.

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    • #17
      Hi all,

      Tibuck19, thank you (a lot) for those pictures + links, now im 99,9999999% sure of the position of the 2 pot's (10k and 100k) about the other 2 components. If you say that the other components are not necessary i will leave them for now (until everything works fine). What about the Tx and Rx holes, im not sure if i can follow your links since the PCB seems a bit different, could i follow your links?

      Thank you all.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by ShinyGoldPT View Post
        Hi all,

        Tibuck19, thank you (a lot) for those pictures + links, now im 99,9999999% sure of the position of the 2 pot's (10k and 100k) about the other 2 components. If you say that the other components are not necessary i will leave them for now (until everything works fine). What about the Tx and Rx holes, im not sure if i can follow your links since the PCB seems a bit different, could i follow your links?

        Thank you all.
        You very welcome, its all information I have gathered on the forums.
        if I understood right , The RX is the one with the Cap across it, from what I see both versions are about the same, perhaps there was a few improvements made to the PCB (the black one) layout that is sold by silverdog, however I am nearly positive that if you follow the same TX coil start and end, the same for the RX it will work. I do highly recommend a GB pot of 100K a multi turn or precision pot. its very useful in difficult grounds.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Tibuck19 View Post
          you should of asked about a month ago loll

          YEP !

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          • #20
            Hi all,

            I've finished both coils following the homefire tutorial. I've been left with 2 "D" that love to look like 0's (seems that the housing need to keep then in shape). I've been left with 6 wires ( the usual i know) but im not sure how can i connects then. Following the tutorial i need to solder the Al shield in 3 diferentes places, which i don't get it, im using the 5 dinheiro PIN cable, só from homefire tutorial and Tibuck's thread i've noticed that the begin Tx GOES to the positive Tx and the begin Ex GOES to the positive Tx but then i don't know where the Al shield goes on the PCB and how IM gonna solder then in the 3 different places. Could you guys give me a hand (or some neurons).

            Senti with my phone.

            Thank you All.

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            • #21
              Connect all Tx and Rx to PCB, turn it on and try if it works. It will be nervous without shielding, but you need to know if you have Rx not swapped. If you get double tone, swap Rx cables.

              If your device works, connect both shields into Tx- which goes into Gnd on pcb. Also cable shield connect to PCB GND. But always on one place only, avoid any ground loops! (this is reason why we need to isolate shields from each other)

              You can connect Tx- and all shields together in search head and on other side of cable you will have only 4 wires Tx+, Tx-, Rx+ and Rx-. If you connect cable shield in search head to Tx- (which is GND), do not connect shield of cable on the other side with connector - isolate them. I am sure this is also mentioned on several places on forum

              I do it this way, because I do not care about winding direction and with swapping Tx is possible to flip coil to get cable ends on the same side like Rx...
              Last edited by Hyena; 05-09-2018, 11:05 AM. Reason: sentence added

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              • #22
                Which cable you would suggest for diy coils?

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                • #23
                  Hi all, tried to connects the PCB to the 12v power supply and then...... Nothing .
                  Checked the power supply cables that Connect to the PCB, checked the speaker and nothing the 7808 gets harm and other pieces too, don't know what is wrong.

                  Any idea?

                  Thank you all

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by blobber View Post
                    Which cable you would suggest for diy coils?
                    http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...ble-grey-color

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                    • #25
                      Is your coil connected? Need more details....

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                      • #26
                        Any idea?
                        --
                        opamp and comparator tester PCBs batch had sent from China and i am just wait arrival. this tester will cover all your problems
                        with checking of the micros.
                        i will inform as soon i get them

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by blobber View Post
                          Which cable you would suggest for diy coils?
                          Shielded USB cable , I think is that's used for IB coils.

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                          • #28
                            Thankyou KT315, I found a supplier here in Germany.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Tibuck19 View Post
                              Shielded USB cable , I think is that's used for IB coils.
                              Yes, until now I used it for all my projects too.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by blobber View Post
                                Yes, until now I used it for all my projects too.
                                Personally I never made a ID (VLF) coil before however, the coil I have was made by dfbowers and that's what he suggested and it work great, When I make my coils for PI I use a Japanese GS-6 1105 cable, which works for my needs and cost efficient .

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