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I bought all the best parts I could that digikey had waterproof 5 pin male and female for the RG58U coax all gold contact ic dip sockets all gold test points multi colored screen waterproof push buttons and switch the best caps and resistors I?m at about $240 so far lol I want to make it so whoever just sees it asks about it let alone begs to use it
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Lots of questions, some of which you could maybe answer yourself once you build the project as per original design and read back over the book.Originally posted by SilverSurfer17 View Post
A lot of folk are still building so are probably fixated on getting their units up and running, so any answers to questions related to mods at this point in time are not really relevant or high on the agenda.
You can see in post #1 that any errata related notes are posted by Qiaozhi as they come to his attention via readers/builders.
As to your ideas of powering the PIC from 6v or the overclocking, there is no reason to do this, it will gain you a dead chip in the first case and wasted power/ instability in the second.
Yes, you can overclock but you can also introduce PLL timing jitter along with it and in all honesty, for this build and the timing signal and frequency involved, you don't need to overclock.
Absolute maximum ratings are just that, they have a little margin but are not meant for continuous operation at those levels. If you want reliability in a product, stick within a device's datasheet limits.
I'm not sure it makes that much sense to make modifications to the existing design before one understands the functional blocks and has a working unit.
I do get where you are coming from and can see your enthusiasm but when I first read your sequence of posts, I thought you were taking the Micky out of everyone.
My advice is to build the unit as is per design first, then start your mods, don't add to the confusion for if/when things go wrong on the first build.
Bells and whistles are nice but don't always make for a better detector.
No one is trying to discredit you for asking questions and it doesn't mean your ideas should stop flowing, they are best put into context of the thread that's all.
Sometimes, as Qiaozhi has said, it would be best to put your mod ideas/questions into a separate thread as some of the posts don't appear as related to Voodoo.
Please post pictures of your finished Voodoo detector when you have it done , it will be great to see the all different completed builds folk come up with.
CheersComment
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Lol I get it now most of the people on here are newbs and in the same boat as I am with this and I sure hope not many can’t even get it up and running and tuned I know I can do that any board I ever seen I could copy stuff it burn the files to a eprom adjust the power supply and off and running and tuning it to the coil isn’t rocket science so that’s why I moved ahead to the mods I wanted before I even messed with the board because if there something I should change I don’t want to be soldier sucking parts out that’s why I went with sockets I noticed he is using a 20mhz crystal and I know the micro says 24mhz can be used max and on some chips can go way higher if they where mixed in because of having to fill runs so I’m curious what controls that fly back signal speed if it’s not the micro controllerComment
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I wouldn't say "most of the people on here are newbs", there are many members with varying degrees of skill, from newbs to technically competent and beyond.Originally posted by SilverSurfer17 View Post
As to the PIC it is not just a matter of changing the clock speed, you then need to look at how that change affects the different peripherals, one in particular is the ADC setup/conversion time for instance and it's not the only one.
A proportional change in clock speed in a PIC can not really be viewed the same as standard processor with external memory peripherals and wait states.
The TX speed is controlled by the PIC but it is not it's only function and so you will need to study the Voodoo firmware and PIC data sheet to see what changes would be required to suit what you want to achieve. Experiment and start a new thread perhaps..
I won't post anymore on this particular subject in this thread as it is getting a little off topic.
cheersComment
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Yeah i knew it would change other things speeds and functions you're increasing the timing on everything like fast forwarding threw a movie i just got my first part ironic the on off switch ok ill build the board get it working then ill be back to pick George's brain since he knows the software and hardware and what i want to do with his ideaComment
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MDtoday gave you very good answers.Originally posted by SilverSurfer17 View Post
Also, Many of your questions are already heavily discussed in this forum. READ the many threads and posts to get those answers. For one higher coil current makes the receive side much, much harder to do. Build a simple PI circuit and try this.
As for PIC's, overVoltage and overclocking is a bad idea. A much better choice is choosing a new PIC that is designed to run with a higher speed clock. I suggested in a post above porting to a PIC18F26Q10 which runs at 64MHz and have been playing with a PIC32 running at 200MHz, so these options are available. Check the "Programming" sub-forum for discussion of other PICs.
This does require learning how to setup the various PIC peripherals by reading the data sheet. Mods to the VooDoo PIC code can then be done (George has published the source code here so any of us can make changes if desired).Comment
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Surfer, there is no extra charge on Geotech for using punctuation, and it would make your posts so much easier to read.Comment
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in mandarin using punctiation is absent. - The hieroglyphes, Carl.Comment
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I guess you haven't read the sheet on the chip he choose he is running it at 20mhz and it can be run at 24mhz according to the data sheet and im guessing what people are not understanding is that better chips have been mixed in and some can easily be ran at over 80mhz they do it to fill orders so no point in changing chips just check it and yes it is free but a waste of time !Comment
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I might be a newb to detectors but not with a lot of whats going on here 9 years of pulling parts stuffing boards and programming eproms and testing boards i guess people are just reading the last comments and posting their replies to that last post so again ill repeat i wont have a problem getting it working what i will ever have a problem with is software when it comes to hex files i have no idea what changing R2 to D2 doesComment
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Maybe he used 20mhz instead of 24mhz for a reason i don't know thats another reason i asked i figured he would chime in but its all tight lips i guess on questions so ill build it and find out for myselfComment
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Originally posted by SilverSurfer17 View Post
How many MD projects that you have built do you have working right now and can show us a video of ?Comment
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None hence the reason why I’m here asking questions but I have built plenty of Tesla coils so I’m pretty dam sure I can tune that coil to that detector I can build the board and have programmed thousands of EPROMs and know what direction they go in the board so just that much a working detector now as for making it be able to do the rest of want it to be able to do I have zero idea could I figure it out over days weeks a month sure but why when you can ask questionsComment
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None of my questions have been about getting a working unit going it’s been all options or upgrades to have it do what I need it to do or want it to do if possibleComment
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And don’t worry your little heart out I have a Youtube account when I get it going I’ll post a link I’m not afraid to make a video either lol it will probably be 2 weeks to get the board or at least 10 days and all the parts I ordered from Digikey where in stock at the moment but that don’t mean anything they where not shipping since Christmas so orders are in front of meComment
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