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Timt to pass on some info, more to come.
FIRST: on another such forum I posted what I thought was good advice. Some was wrong and the arrogant to**er of a Mod didn't just correct me (that's fine - we all learn) - he ripped me to shreds, rudely. SO, this is NOT advice, this is what I did and the results.
First, I spent a week (really) scouring the web for info, and found it, but not all in one place although GetTech provided by far the most. A big thankyou!
Here we go then. I made the jig that Dave Emery shows in his excellent PDF, and I calculated my coils as he said (and they worked). The first buck coil didn't because I got cocky and guessed it.
The Pics. I black 'case' is a plant pot saucer fron a garden centre - cost about 2 bucks (see I speak American now
).
I got excited, but the matt black inside is not a graphite coating. Doh!
The brown tray came from the same place - about a buck. It will appear again later.
The blue coil is my Rx coil with the Buck coil on top. I took grat care with the shape and alignment.
The red one is the Tx coil.
Number of turns are almost exactly what Dave's article says they would be.
When I wound them I wound into the right angle of the hook,not onto the base. This let me soak them in varnish and not stick them down. Next day they came off easily and the turns are all nice and close - you can actually mold the coils now to get them perfect and removing turns is easy - I wound all of them well over the turns they should be because I find it easier to remove turns than add!
Nulling, with a trick I got from another GeoT posting came down to flat line at 1mV on the scope, that's right - zero.
More about this when the coils are assembled. Next job. Next posting.
(Quick air test because I can't wait looks pretty good...)
I vave even taken some decent pics
FIRST: on another such forum I posted what I thought was good advice. Some was wrong and the arrogant to**er of a Mod didn't just correct me (that's fine - we all learn) - he ripped me to shreds, rudely. SO, this is NOT advice, this is what I did and the results.
First, I spent a week (really) scouring the web for info, and found it, but not all in one place although GetTech provided by far the most. A big thankyou!
Here we go then. I made the jig that Dave Emery shows in his excellent PDF, and I calculated my coils as he said (and they worked). The first buck coil didn't because I got cocky and guessed it.
The Pics. I black 'case' is a plant pot saucer fron a garden centre - cost about 2 bucks (see I speak American now
).I got excited, but the matt black inside is not a graphite coating. Doh!
The brown tray came from the same place - about a buck. It will appear again later.
The blue coil is my Rx coil with the Buck coil on top. I took grat care with the shape and alignment.
The red one is the Tx coil.
Number of turns are almost exactly what Dave's article says they would be.
When I wound them I wound into the right angle of the hook,not onto the base. This let me soak them in varnish and not stick them down. Next day they came off easily and the turns are all nice and close - you can actually mold the coils now to get them perfect and removing turns is easy - I wound all of them well over the turns they should be because I find it easier to remove turns than add!
Nulling, with a trick I got from another GeoT posting came down to flat line at 1mV on the scope, that's right - zero.
More about this when the coils are assembled. Next job. Next posting.
(Quick air test because I can't wait looks pretty good...)
I vave even taken some decent pics
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