Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Building DD Sniper For Sovereign- 4x2, 4x3, Or Even 3X2. Possible To Go That Small? & Copying SEF...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Building DD Sniper For Sovereign- 4x2, 4x3, Or Even 3X2. Possible To Go That Small? & Copying SEF...

    I'm in the midst of reading/researching coil building with the intent of making a very small sniper style coil for my Sovereign GT. I do have a background of both self taught and formal training in some aspects of electronics, but the field of coil building is going to require me to do a good bit of reading to fill in the blanks. Just printed out about an inch high stack of threads from the Geotech forums that should help along those lines.

    As for this extreme sniper coil I want to make, I do not care about depth so long as it can get at least say 2 to 3 (or better yet 4) inches deep. Primary purpose for this coil will be extreme unmasking situations where depth is not important to me, using it to hunt super high trash or iron laden sites that are to the extreme in masking conditions. If the coil is capable of it I also want to use it along fence lines and other metal objects at old sites.

    I'm very impressed with the Detech SEF 12x10's depth, stability, and am also amazed at it's outstanding left/right seperation. This is the best coil, stock or aftermarket, I have ever owned or used on a machine in all my years of detecting.

    For that reason, if at all possible, I would like to copy this coils winding layout for the project. What I'm wondering is if anybody has seen the inside of one of these coils? I'm wondering if the TX/RX windings actually overlap in the middle? By the looks of the oustide of the coil casing it appears both windings overlap and then flow at a very gental curve past each other in the center before once again passing each other on to their perspective sides of the coil. Lacking an X-Ray machine to take a peak inside, I'm hoping somebody has had one of these coils apart to see eactly what the winding layout is.

    Before even getting that far, perhaps the more important question to ask is if it's possible to make a DD coil with a 4 (or even sub-4) inch length, and say a 3 or perhaps a 2" width? The smallest DD coil I'm aware of is the Garrett 4.5" round DD sniper coil, so I at least know a round DD of 4.5" diameter is possible if nothing else. Is anybody aware of any other commercial made DDs smaller than 4.5"? I'm curious for both knowing that a sub 4.5" dimension(s) are possible, and also because I want to make this sniper coil smaller than anything available in a commercial product just for the sake of it being unique. Even if a 4 or sub-4" DD is possible, are there issues with making the width even smaller in terms of the field being generated?

    Some other questions to throw out there for now- I have both the old and newer schematics of the pre-amp circuit found in all Sovereign/Excalibur coils. Is there any performance differences between the two that anybody has been able to see? In relation to the pre-amp, in such a small coil potentially as this, would there be any benefit to mounting the pre-amp off to the side of the coil to avoid interaction with the detection field as much as possible? I would suspect it would be beneficial to get the pre-amp circuit as far away as possible, but not so far that the weak RX signal has any chance to degrade or pick up distortions. If so, I'll probably put the pre-amp past the bottom of the coil so it hangs of it's tail.

    Shielding- In such a little project as this, I'd like to avoid buying anything in quantity to build it. In particular, I thought I remember reading references a while back to stripping the insulation out of certain capacitors to shield a coil?

    Any other "off the shelf" supplies you can point me to for construction would be of great use, such as say a cable from Radio Shack that should work for the coil cable. These Sovereign coil cables are not shielded due to the pre-amp making the RX signal more robust on it's trip to the control box, so I don't need to use shielded cable. Just want something I can get my hands on without ordering it.

    I don't want to order anything if I can get away with it, and prefer to buy as little as needed to experiment here with building one. I'm thinking I probably won't form a custom casing for it, but rather will just set the windings into a mold with the outline of an SEF and then just pour the epoxy right over it to form a solid coil with no spokes since weight in such a small coil won't be much of a factor. Only problem here is the shielding. Can I then apply the shielding to the outside of the epoxy and then further incase that to protect it? Is the distance of the shielding from the windings a critical factor that needs to be considered?

    For mounting ears I'll probably just embed PVC into the epoxy pour. Or, if vacuum forming is easy enough somebody shoot me a link to it and I may go that route here.

    Haven't really thought this all through yet as I've got a ton of reading to do that I printed out from this forum to refresh my memory on the particulars of coil building. Got "about an inch high" of reading here which might fill in some of my questions. Several years back I was reading up on building a larger coil but by then the SEFs came along and they were exactly what I was after, so it's been a while since I read up on this stuff.

  • #2
    Was wondering...

    Since from what I've dug up so far on the web, it appears that to build bigger or smaller coils for a machine, guys would just use the stock gauges of wire used for the TX and RX, and then it sounds like they'd keep the entire length of the wire the same as stock, but rather increase or decrease the # of turns based on coil size. IE: Same length of wire for a larger coil, but with less turns, so that things like the resistance value are kept the same (being the same length/gauge wire). Or, for a smaller coil, same length/gauge against, just using more turns for the windings.

    So if that's the case, could you possibly say take a cheap 5" Excelerator coil for the BBS units, and then rip out the guts and re-wind the RX and TX wires with less turns to match the dimensions of a smaller coil, or say vise versa for building a larger coil here? If that's the case, then all the "ingredients" are already there (shielding, etc), and I could even just use the same case to house the smaller coil build inside of.

    This next question is partly concerning that above, but also concerning just nulling the coil in general. I had assumed that to null a DD coil it was done simply by both windings overlapping in the center. I thought only concentrics used a null loop to balance things, but it appears with what reading I've done so far that even a DD uses a null loop on the RX winding to cancel out the effects or put it in balance with the TX winding. So even if I re-formed the windings in a existing coil, it would still have to be nulled again.

    I'm wondering if, when either building a coil from scratch or if possible re-forming the windings in an existing one, that if perhaps there is a way to do it without using a scope? Since the whole point is to null it right for best stability and depth, what if I raised the sensitivity as high as possible in a low EMI environment and then just start moving the null loop around until it stabilizes, and then from there start waving a coin over it and play with the position of the loop some more until I see the best depth I can get. So long as the coil is still stable, and yet I find a spot for that loop for max depth, then I would think that would mean it's calibrated right?

    Any thoughts on all of the above?

    Are there any other methods to nulling a coil besides using a scope? I can get my hands on a scope and learn what needs done with that, but I'd prefer any short cuts if possible.

    PS- Still can't dig up any info on the wire gauge used for the BBS coils. Anybody have those? From what I've read thus far seems people are using the same gauge of wire that a stock coil uses, and then just adjust the number of turns for the given coil size?

    Comment


    • #3
      I'll be the first to offer comments. "short cuts" will lead to disappointment, avoid. Wire is cheap, don't re-use previously used self-bond wire. Design the coil properly, ie. CORRECT coils inductance/resistance, don't rewind whatever wire you have to hand. DD coils don't need any more than the two coils, but commercial manufacturers find it better to use a nulling loop, possibly for speed/cheapness. You can't 'listen to the null of a search-coil' in any simple way, a scope is the best tool, the DC demodulator outputs could be used (DVM monotoring), but you don't have easy access to them.

      Comment


      • #4
        Scope is a must. You may get it "working" without a scope but it won't be zeroed in. I agree with Skippy don't cheap out. You will have to invest in different gauges of wire and a good scope. Gauge and turns will be way different from a 10 inch stock coil to a 4x3. It may not even be possible to make a DD that small? The coil will be extremely thick. I use 21-22awg for my TX and 29-30awg for my RX but my coils are much larger then a ML stock 10 incher. Shoot for .440uH and about 5R using the AD797 on your pre-amp for your RX. But like I said your gauge wire will be different. For my larger coils I'm about 25 turns RX and 40 turns TX but it varies and again yours will be different on such a tiny coil. Don't forget about shielding there are many methods you can try. Coil is useless without proper shielding.

        Good Luck

        Bob

        Comment


        • #5
          Dear Bob,

          Can you please give an advice on building Excalibur II coil.
          I want to make it light and hydrodynamic shaped.
          I would like to make 15" SEF or bigger. What preamp schematic I have to use?
          Probably your Sovereign setup "21-22awg for TX and 29-30awg for RX .440uH 5R using the AD797" may fits Excalibur II.
          What you think about TX inductance and resistance for Excalibur II cols?
          I have successfully build 17" SEF for Fisher CZ but I need to have some hope before I will spend $1500 on Excal and brake it apart.

          Comment


          • #6
            Factory coils TX read about 1.01uH and just under 2 ohms for your resistance.

            Bob
            Last edited by plumabob; 12-02-2013, 09:22 AM. Reason: Mistake

            Comment


            • #7
              Minelab
              Name TX-L TX-R (ohms) TX-fo TX wire RX-L RX-R (ohms) RX-fo RX wire
              ________________________________________
              Explorer 10" 581uH 0.88 --- --- 472uH 5.9 --- ========
              BBS 1000 10"
              TX? (1,2): L=1.022mH R=26.6
              WOT 15" (Sov)
              TX? (1,2): L=1.042uH R=22.7
              Excelerator E 18" (Explorer)
              RX (1,2): L=653uH R=17 TX (3,4): L=366uH R=7.75

              Comment


              • #8
                Thank you for important info.

                It appears that TX has twice more induction than RX. Interesting why? May be preamp helps to reduce it. In regular VLF detectors RX has more windings than TX.

                Also schematics I have found for preamp is here: Click image for larger version

Name:	Newer Sovereign Coil Pre-Amp Schematic.jpg
Views:	4
Size:	14.0 KB
ID:	338538 Probably several variations are circulating over Internet.

                Comment

                Working...
                X