im just waiting now for the resin to be delivered....a 1kg size cost me approx £30 uk pounds which i thought is very expensive...i want now to order the black dye so the coil is not clear finnish and i may buy some bubbles to take up some of the volume as they are very cheap to buy...im still not looking forward to doing all this as i have no garden or yard as i live in a flat and it looks like ive got to do it in someones old shed.
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just done the resin in the coil and now waiting for it to cure....i used masking tape around coil to help prevent resin dripping down side of coil...some of the resin has dripped over and im worried it may tarnish the plastic outside shell of the coil as some of the resin has soaked the masking tape...i think next time i will try some else and not resin.
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I bought a milling cutter in Lidl lately and I intend to use it to mill the grooves in hard Styrofoam to make "one off" casts for my future coils. Some modellers use this technique, and they apply acetone to get rid of excess Styrofoam. I'll have to make sure the resin is not affected with acetone though.
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the weight of my coil is 500g and is 15 x 12 which i guess is not to bad a weight for the size of coil...i have now managed to get most of the surplus resin off the coil by chipping away with tool....can anyone tell me if resin will react with polystyrene if i wanted to try and make a lighter coil.
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I have used closed cell foam sheet cut up to fill major voids. tack in with superglue.
get the foam panel frosm East coast fiberglass
then poly or epoxy or pot compound.
I got pot compund from Intertronics
you can throw in a handfull of micro baloons too the reduce mass further.
You could tie a few party balloons on and get neutral bouyancy
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I created a lot of coil for pi and I suggest you do not use epoxy resin but rather the dielectric resin polyurethane resin, you'll Find here at Farnell or RS.
The best resin it's axson resin RE 11820/1020 Excellent dielectric properties. Fungus resistance. Excellent moisture resistance. A high quality, high-end product. Choice of three different potlife (handling time).
Transmitter, all underwater applications such as pomps. All applications for electronic components used in wet environments for example, all applications where high moisture resistance is required.
It's a flexible resin, It's very important to use dielectric resin
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I'm still confused. I'm looking for a cheap, lightweight, low heat setup, nonconducting mixture to fill my coils with.
This one looks good but $45! I bought a used coil for $35! It's supposed to be cheaper to make your own...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals...90015436&rt=nc
Casting resins are cheaper but get hot when setting? Many don't really tell you all the info you need to choose one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301209504477...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I used some 2 part epoxy in a caulking gun type cartridge I got for $5 locally it worked good but was really heavy
and a bit thick so might have bubbles in it (didn't sink into the hollow ears).
I have several coils I am just about ready to pot but not sure what to use...
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Hello,
For US http://www.newark.com/
Polyurethane resin for 1131 grs / 20€ / http://fr.farnell.com/robnor/el171c-...131g/dp/725985
Polyurethane resin for 566 grs / 12€ / http://fr.farnell.com/robnor/el171c-...566g/dp/725973
The mix is clean because you mixed in the same bag the 2 components.
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for my mono coils i tack the loop in with hot glue small blobs well spaced, then cover the loop in just enough epoxy to hold it then i seal the coil and fill the shell with expanding foam through a small hole drilled in the shell, it will grow worms out of any gaps and just trim those off, you can put a little silicon where the worm grew as some foam will soak up water but most dont, and you need the stuff that is creamy white when dry, the yellow brown stuff contains iron oxide powder.
its no good if you dive or need it neutrally bouyant, but if you like it as light as possible for general beach or land use is great.
i have made 2 vlf coils but as yet not potted them up, but in theory as long as they are nulled and cannot move while it sets i cant see any reason why it wont work there too.
p.s. its very important that you seal up the shell, ideally the only holes should be your fill hole and the cable exit, i have filled the cable exit with epoxy and reassembled the pigstail while its wet, give it 20 mins to harden then fill with foam and it worked, but if its not sealed it will make a right old mess.
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