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  • Epoxy or what?

    Can anybody point me exactly on proper material which is commonly used as "filler" for search coils?
    I know, we elaborated this so many times in the past.
    Most probably it is some kind of epoxy mass.
    But ordinary epoxy (2 component) is hard and adding unwanted weight to overall coil design.
    I have tried many tricks to solve this problem, yet my coils are still "heavy weight".
    Which is exact name for the material which md manufacturers are using as filler for coils and they remain light weight?
    Name? Model? Where to obtain? Shop? Source?
    Please i need most accurate infos and not just assumptions.
    ...
    Also; proper model of wire which is "coated" with dry glue layer, later melted and joined with alcohol in process of winding.
    Since i am not in those matters enough good, nor English is my primary language; i will need help on locating these materials to buy.
    Preferably from EU supplier.

  • #2
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    Can anybody point me exactly on proper material which is commonly used as "filler" for search coils?
    I know, we elaborated this so many times in the past.
    Most probably it is some kind of epoxy mass.
    But ordinary epoxy (2 component) is hard and adding unwanted weight to overall coil design.
    I have tried many tricks to solve this problem, yet my coils are still "heavy weight".
    Which is exact name for the material which md manufacturers are using as filler for coils and they remain light weight?
    Name? Model? Where to obtain? Shop? Source?
    Please i need most accurate infos and not just assumptions.
    ...
    Also; proper model of wire which is "coated" with dry glue layer, later melted and joined with alcohol in process of winding.
    Since i am not in those matters enough good, nor English is my primary language; i will need help on locating these materials to buy.
    Preferably from EU supplier.
    WEST SYSTEM EPOXY is available in many places in Europe. For casting the coil, you use the lowest viscosity resin/hardener and micro balloons filler. They also have Graphite powder to make an excellent shield coating.

    http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...ns/Serbian.pdf

    Comment


    • #3
      Hallo Ivconic, gebruik ik glas bubbels, Het is erg licht, je Kunt Het Mengen met epoxy http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...=glass+bubbles Grt Nakky











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      Last edited by nakky; 01-14-2016, 07:23 PM. Reason: toevoegenfout

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      • #4
        Wire that was used to make crt deflection coils used 2 layers of enamel insulation. The first (inner) layer was high temperature, well above soldering temp. and the second (outer) layer was well below that. Heating the coils caused the outer layer to melt allowing the windings to fuse together and hold their shape. I have a lot of salvaged deflection coils made with 2 layer Litz wire that can be easily unwound with a heat gun. Common solvents won't work on this stuff (I tried). I may use some for a PI coil.

        Foam insulation in a pressurized can is very rigid when cured. I intend to try it with an IB coil

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi Ivconic,

          Here's a link to the different bonding methods of wire in coils:
          It has many languages too Hope you find yours!

          http://www.elektrisola.com/self-bond...g-methods.html



          I have seen commercial coils filled with PUR Foam after pulling them apart. This is used for foaming windows/doors etc. in construction.
          Is your coil for land or in water?

          Hope all this helps, Cheerio, Polymer
          Last edited by Polymer; 01-14-2016, 07:44 PM. Reason: Extra Text I forgot

          Comment


          • #6
            Thank You very Much people!
            Lot of very useful infos!
            Thanks, i appreciate!

            Comment


            • #7
              I have seen a tesoro video and they were running there wire through a solvent bath as its wound.

              Fill inside a golden mask 7" is harder than polyester resin and not that light. Same with a Minelab BBS. Cross supports aren't filled to cut the volume down. For speed of manufacture I would be surprised if light activated resin is not used. Hopefully someone can confirm this.

              Older concentric were really light as they were expanded polystyrene and hot glued in place.

              Comment


              • #8
                This is what I did use at my coils. http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/bla...nd-832b-375ml/
                mix it with glass ballons to get lower weight.
                here is it allso http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/mg-...pound-832b-3l/

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks again!
                  ...
                  Polystyrene... i opened several old Cscope coils so far and all the time i was asking myself one thing; how it was dried up in closed enclosure without air flow?
                  I tried to achieve the same with cheap "purpen" and it fails to dry even after several days? No air; no dry.
                  After several days purpen was still soft and sticky inside, with a lot of air gaps and holes, complete miss.
                  Yet; old Cscope search heads were complete filled up, stiff and completely dry from the inside. I had to use sharp knife to cut piece by piece of that "mass".
                  So, main question is; was it "purpen" or something else, something special?
                  Because that's what would probably be best material for search head to fill.


                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If you want it light-weight use PU-foam or glue the coil into some styrofoam-bed.
                    This also has some shock absorbing effect if the coil crushes into stones, roots etc.

                    Gluing the coil windings together is not that necessary as long those sit tight enough.
                    The most simple solution is using duct-tape or small cable-binders.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      In my case, this Compound 832 was recommend by other coil builder, at it is drying up perfect slowly (24-32 hours) and stays in the same cm3 so you dont get problems with coil nulling.
                      Foam and other I tryed, did change the perfect balance / Nul I found before closing up.. But not this 832.
                      Its a Very good material to work with and Very solid surface finish.

                      only little Maybee. Is air bobles in the 832. To help with problem, I did use a Coca cola plastik bottle, cut off the buttom and made a plastik tube at the cap end. With this tool the air bobles flow up and clear 832 without air came out of the tube end.
                      hope you understand, Otherwise I can take a picture.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Henrikras View Post
                        In my case, this Compound 832 was recommend by other coil builder, at it is drying up perfect slowly (24-32 hours) and stays in the same cm3 so you dont get problems with coil nulling.
                        Foam and other I tryed, did change the perfect balance / Nul I found before closing up.. But not this 832.
                        Its a Very good material to work with and Very solid surface finish.

                        only little Maybee. Is air bobles in the 832. To help with problem, I did use a Coca cola plastik bottle, cut off the buttom and made a plastik tube at the cap end. With this tool the air bobles flow up and clear 832 without air came out of the tube end.
                        hope you understand, Otherwise I can take a picture.
                        Perfectly understandable. Thanks!
                        With epoxy which i used so far there were also air bubbles, but those disappear in first few hours of drying.
                        I guess it's because the "mass" is of extreme density and it kicks out air from the enclosure slowly in time.
                        ...
                        Ok that's most common option; to use better quality and lower viscosity epoxy, which is lighter than the one with higher viscosity.
                        Additionally we can add "glass-bubbles" and make it more lighter too.
                        Additionally we can mix graphite powder too and connect it as shield.
                        And for color; we can add small amount of used printing powder from laser printers: to make it dark black and shiny (i did this many times and it makes the surface indeed smooth and shiny).
                        Point is to make search head as lighter as it could be.
                        ...
                        Second option; to use styrofoam and cut shapes, than later add a bit of epoxy to make it solid.
                        Third option; is to use some special kind of "purpen" which will dry up in closed enclosure without air and also which will not expand too much and form air holes and gaps too.
                        Third option provides lightest arrangement, no doubts in that. But what exactly is that special kind of "purpen" which will harden and dry up without air?
                        Cscope did it so many years ago, therefore it's old technology.
                        How the heck they did it?


                        Comment


                        • #13
                          What on earth is 'purpen'?? We can't advise you on it's use if we haven't any idea what it is....
                          I've never seen a supplier of soluble-coating enamelled wire, these days it's normally heat-activated, by passing a high current through the winding. There's a good U.K distributor whose site is worth a look at:
                          https://wires.co.uk/

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by ivconic View Post
                            P
                            Third option provides lightest arrangement, no doubts in that. But what exactly is that special kind of "purpen" which will harden and dry up without air?
                            Cscope did it so many years ago, therefore it's old technology.
                            How the heck they did it?


                            Probably it is not air per se, that help drying Purpen, but relative humidity of air.
                            So a little moisture inside can help and ad no harm to coil circuit.
                            And Purpen should be fresh one.

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                            • #15
                              hi,I idea have,this can be done,Marine adhezife this made polyurethane,,this cling hard and would swell,strong glue

                              this link:

                              http://www.istekalite.com/image/cach...60-500x500.JPG

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