Generally, Abs has a hang degree of around 45deg before you need supports, depending on how hot you print it(normally 240C), I usually use 40deg as my reference. the amount of chamfer you will apply is all relevant to that angle, part thickness and chamfer on the opposite side, 10mm might be to much, but experimenting will get you there. I print all coils upside down, the trick with abs is not to have to much nor to little surface contact with you glass, But honestly printing abs has nothing to do with part warping from bed, but rather the air and drafts around the part as you are printing it, if you can maintain the air around the print at round 30c to 40 C with out drafts it will not warp nor crack and bed adhesion will not be an issue.
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Silicone spray is a lubricant like oil. Don't do this.
I have used glue stick for PLA and it worked like a charm, one thin layer on a glass plate, brand was "tesa stick" from germany.
For ABS i use a mixture of Acetone and ABS support material , works perfect too but i have cracks between the upper layers and deforming of material.
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Originally posted by BKY1337 View PostSilicone spray is a lubricant like oil. Don't do this.
I have used glue stick for PLA and it worked like a charm, one thin layer on a glass plate, brand was "tesa stick" from germany.
For ABS i use a mixture of Acetone and ABS support material , works perfect too but i have cracks between the upper layers and deforming of material.
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Originally posted by Tibuck19 View PostJust for knowledge sake, my 3d printed 10 inch coil with epoxy filled cavity is 575G total
You wrote that you already made a 3d Printed 10 inch coil. Or was this the PI one?
@homefire: i dont know a dry silicone spray, just silicone mass and silicone spray lubricant
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