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TF-900_TM800

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  • Originally posted by Altra View Post
    That's seems important hint!
    I could break rods if I rushed into bending without basic knowledge.
    Thanks!

    Comment


    • "Unfortunately; 10mm aluminum bar is too strong and hard to bend with this tool"

      Is this bar structural-grade metal, like 2014 / 6061 etc ? That will be quite hard to bend.
      I have some 6mm electrical-grade aluminium cable ( almost pure aluminium ) from some scrap underground mains cable, three cores + earth + steel outer shield, chunky stuff. That wire is pretty easy to bend ... obviously 10mm will be harder.

      Comment


      • These are AlCuMgPb D5 Dural... whatever it may mean!
        Tough ones.
        ...
        How to overcome the problem of that obsolete switch with many contacts?
        I did it like this:

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        • Dural = duralumin, which is part of the US '2000' series alloys, with copper as the main alloying element. It's pretty strong stuff, and would need careful bending, as it could crack. It's also heat-treated ... which gives it the strength. If you roast it with a blowtorch, you could destroy a lot of that strength. This may or may not be a problem.

          Comment


          • you need just two positions left
            1. GND REJECT ON
            2. GND REJECT OFF
            use a switch with 2 contacts pairs.
            for power on set a switch. for batt check use any voltage indicator circuit.
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • Originally posted by kt315 View Post
              you need just two positions left
              1. GND REJECT ON
              2. GND REJECT OFF
              use a switch with 2 contacts pairs.
              for power on set a switch. for batt check use any voltage indicator circuit.
              I did similar. It is 4x3 rotary switch.
              So I have now: Off, Metal, Trace (GND REJECT ON, GND REJECT OFF).
              I don't have only batttery check.
              It can be done on many ways, the battery check. As you said, push button and meter scale voltage indication.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Skippy View Post
                Dural = duralumin, which is part of the US '2000' series alloys, with copper as the main alloying element. It's pretty strong stuff, and would need careful bending, as it could crack. It's also heat-treated ... which gives it the strength. If you roast it with a blowtorch, you could destroy a lot of that strength. This may or may not be a problem.
                I am afraid it must be heated before bending.

                Comment


                • On the TF900 there is a Pipe Trace Option where you use a Different ??? Front Coil and No Back Coil. I have to hook up a Signal Generator to the Pipe and 2-3 ft from there is the Ground Rod. There is NO back Coil Attached. The Detector is just used as the RX with the Signal Generator being the TX. I used the Unit in 1998 to trace 1.5 miles of 2"-3"-4" steel Water Pipe in a Gravity Water System 5 miles south of the Canadian Border, 30 miles North of Colville, WA.
                  Sincerely
                  Bill, AKA "Lost Adams"

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by BillNEWAST View Post
                    On the TF900 there is a Pipe Trace Option where you use a Different ??? Front Coil and No Back Coil. I have to hook up a Signal Generator to the Pipe and 2-3 ft from there is the Ground Rod. There is NO back Coil Attached. The Detector is just used as the RX with the Signal Generator being the TX. I used the Unit in 1998 to trace 1.5 miles of 2"-3"-4" steel Water Pipe in a Gravity Water System 5 miles south of the Canadian Border, 30 miles North of Colville, WA.
                    Sincerely
                    Bill, AKA "Lost Adams"
                    No i use both coils as on original.
                    It may be that camera didn't catch the second coil.
                    If so; i apologize.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by ivconic View Post
                      No i use both coils as on original.
                      It may be that camera didn't catch the second coil.
                      If so; i apologize.
                      Ivonic, I was Not Referencing Your setup. I was Sharing that on the TF900 there is a Pipe Locator Mode that doesn't use the Rear Coil, Only the front coil and a SEPARATE Pipe Trace Signal Generator, that attaches to the pipe and ground.
                      Bill, AKA "Lost Adams"

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by BillNEWAST View Post
                        Ivonic, I was Not Referencing Your setup. I was Sharing that on the TF900 there is a Pipe Locator Mode that doesn't use the Rear Coil, Only the front coil and a SEPARATE Pipe Trace Signal Generator, that attaches to the pipe and ground.
                        Bill, AKA "Lost Adams"
                        Oh i see, i understand now.

                        Comment


                        • I was offering this info so you could maybe troubleshoot something that wasn't working the way it was supposed to.
                          I think the 73kHz circuit (Cave Mode) is the one used for the Pipe Tracer.
                          I don't have the Pipe Tracer with me, its 800 miles North West, so I don't have the documentation for it handy.
                          I could have my Brother Send it to me if you want it for reference. I'll ask Carl if he wants to post it in the Documentation Section.
                          Bill, AKA "Lost Adams"

                          Comment


                          • took from whites manual '73.5 KHZ with trace accessory'

                            Comment


                            • Many thanks to Ivica for his work.
                              Attached Files

                              Comment


                              • Hi,

                                Is this correct ? :

                                Click image for larger version

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