Pro Coil milling machine ATVA

[satdaveuk]

Hi
Fellow engineers
I am in the middle of designing a coil milling machine out of machined metal 14" Dia 8th inch x2 , Ajustible spacers with wing nuts loads of, Modified calculater for turn counts via reed switch, electric motor from car window winder, and frame work incl plinth thick ABS, suported by 2x2 legs x4 with adjustable shoes to adjust built in spirit level on top plinth.
Just waiting for my friend to machine the lwr and upper drums .I Need to make a cog to fit bottom drum that will mesh with drive cog on motor drive assembly
All design was based from the top of my head thinking of the old record turntable.
In theory should do the job, Each time making a coil the discs will be covered with cling film and guides waxed to stop coils sticking, vat fitted on top assembly as similar to other projects on here, but like all projects the proof is in the eating.
Soon as I have the upper/lwr drums I will commence construction, then I will start posting from scratch on here, so watch this space lol.
Hope all is well with everyone and a big thank you to all of you for your help in the past with various technical questions, and I hope my design will be of use to some of you

Warm regards
Dave

[Skippy]

Should be good when it's finished, Dave. The description does sound like it's for a perpetual motion machine, though! Nice to see the classic 'turn a calculator into an event-counter'. Did it myself with a vacuum-fluorescent-display Casio, decades ago. Regards.

[satdaveuk]

opps

[satdaveuk]

Hi Skippy
Yes I got the idea off the net years ago, but its simple ideas like that, can save allot of time and money
The motor I got for a pint of beer which is brilliant for the job, it can be droped to 5v drawing 200ma no load which then its crawling, but still cant be stoped by hand, so speed control is going to be a doddle.
All the best mate

[satdaveuk]

Part built Coil maker

This is it so far, making it small and portable as possible.
I used the housing from a empty 250m drum of coax cable.
Bearings and drive shaft from a old bike.
Motor/gear box from a car window winder.
Spec so far: motor running at 15 rpm drawing 100ma 2.5v = still unstopable by hand, wish I had a torque meter, far beyond what I exspected.
Next job is assemble of the feeder spool.
I will design it so I can vary the damping ie: coil tention. Im thinking the same theory as the take a spool in a typical older VCR
If I get the design right I should be able to make coils so tight to almost breaking point of the wire If desired because I have more than enough torque on the drive side of things.
The base steel plate I may well tap out and screw stright onto the bearing shaft thread then fit the top plate with a wing nut.
Im open to ideas on this project if anyone sees anything im cocking up let me know before I carry on.
All the best lads
Dave

[satdaveuk]

More pictures of my coil makings Ive proved with know shadow of a doubt the paper glue is the way to go far as the feeder to keep coils together while getting wound.
I tryed again the otherday of using varnish and washing liquid on upper/lower drum assembly plus guides to stop it all sticking, what a mess that was the two had gotten mixed together so know sticking had took place anywhere so needed to quickly cable tie the windings and let it dry out, then after 2-3 days just cut each tie as i lumed with wax string, coil was ok but what a sticky mess that was.
I learned if you insist on using varnish for your feeder glue use wax on the drums/guides.
But whats the point of that when using kiddy school paper glue you dont need to protect anything just remember to split the drums the following day before it drys right out otherwise the wire will stick to the drums etc and it defeats the object.
Before desmantaling anything check the inductance which reads .25mh above its true inductance due to the steel suport plate and the motor drive mechs beneath it.
Through habit I still leave the coil connected to the feeder spool to be on the safe side, I then take the complete assembly of the milling machine wire still connected and split the drums, remove steel spacers leaving coil still on form need a inductance reading of 5.74MH which will eventually give me 6.2MH if thats correct which it always is these days I put paper spacers under the coil windings and proceed to varnish which I give 3 coats, leaving on the former for a few days which is no problem for me because of my work load that pays my bills.
When I get back to the workshop measure inductance again its normall rideing around 5.87-6MH .
Then lume coils with the proper waxed string, not over tight like I did in the old days getting cuts and blisters on my fingers but do it fairly tight, after that im measuring around 5.79 maybe a tad more.
Then I supper glue not with the gel use the runny stuff, note im still on the form, but by now have cut from the feeder drum because know I got enough wire on there, anyway beware not to get any glue on your guides otherwise your knackered, you not got to worry about the lwr drum cause your paper spacers are still there.
Once thats dryed flip the coil over and glue the second side, then go and forget about it for a day, do something else otherwise you will cock it up.
Back in the workshop inductance check still on form 6.2MH just what the doctor ordered.
Tx coil same procedure your just dropping 4-5 turns.
If you find that your slightly under which will only be say .05micro henry and you want to keep the shape of your coil just double lume it, but this time very tight and it will just give you that .05 your after.
After teaching you this procedure which is proven by me time and time again, the most important peace of kit from the start is a very accurate inductance meter, without that you will disapear up your own *** hole, beleave you me I got court out big time in the early part of the TGSL project with a brand new meter thought I could trust considering the spec it suposed to have had.
Anyway experimenting with .35 wire now made the first RX coil impeadence 12.5 ohms but this time im trying 6/6.5MH as ivonics spec 102/107 turns, then back to 5.7/6.2MH but a bit worried on the resistance side of things with the latter, all will be showm, watch this space

Regards

[satdaveuk]

The pictures were from the early days, notice the conflicting inductance results from the same meter between high and low settings, also theres one coil using super glue gel, thats why advise against it, one coil lumed with cotton, which wasnt to bad, another coil wound dry with no feeder glue, when I got time will take pictures of my later coils that are constant.

[satdaveuk]

This is the LCR meter not to buy sold on ebay from hong kong, they portray that they manufacture them, but they dont its like talking to dummys, they also sell a signal generator out of housing which mine does work well and accurate with sweep generator.

The post and packing to get this stuff back cost more than the item when faulty
It should have read 5.35MH know wonder I had problems

[golfnut]

coiltastic

[Monolith]

This is the LCR meter not to buy sold on ebay from hong kong, they portray that they manufacture them, but they dont its like talking to dummys, they also sell a signal generator out of housing which mine does work well and accurate with sweep generator.

The post and packing to get this stuff back cost more than the item when faulty
It should have read 5.35MH know wonder I had problems

Hi satdaveuk,

This is a free image viewer. It is excellent for reducing the pictures to size, about 1000 pixels is perfect.

It is also excellent for compressing the files for uploading on the web.

http://www.irfanview.com/checkversion.php?ver=4.27

all the best

Monolith

[satdaveuk]

Hi satdaveuk,

This is a free image viewer. It is excellent for reducing the pictures to size, about 1000 pixels is perfect.

It is also excellent for compressing the files for uploading on the web.

http://www.irfanview.com/checkversion.php?ver=4.27

all the best

Monolith

Thanks Monolith will use in the fucture