Noobie questions about Surf Pi 1.2

[6666]

Haha! Please thank your grandson for me! Maybe I misunderstood, but I thought that the guy who sells the kit told me it didn't matter how it was connected since it was just a simple mono coil. ???

Did you get it to work ?

[kt315]

HOT and COLD

Haha! Please thank your grandson for me! Maybe I misunderstood, but I thought that the guy who sells the kit told me it didn't matter how it was connected since it was just a simple mono coil. ???

ok. i tell you what is COLD END and HOT END.

COLD END it is there is not pulse signal. DC. in PI detector it is power line, one of two. plus or minus.

HOT END is active signal. TX signal. in PI system this is the DRAIN pin of MOSFET transistor.

so that all is in RELATION to coil be cause we say about COLD and HOT wire of the coil, in PI system.
then, you MUST solder the shield of cable to COLD, inside wire to HOT.
that must sure be clear for you now. on my DP board terminal connector pins
marked as H and C, because people MUST SEE and understand what-to-where.

[lmrubin]

Hi Larry,
Have you checked out this page?
http://www.adrianandgenese.com/blogg...rom-a-diy-kit/

The detector is setup for a single speaker, if all you have is a stereo jack then you can jumper tip and ringer together

Discriminate is not something that you are going to get with one of these PI machines. The Surf PI is meant for the beach and it is a dig everything detector.

If you take your multimeter in continuity mode and put one probe on your ground connection on the PCB and then test both coil connection points the one that gives you a tone will be the one that your cable shield should connect to.

Thanks for info. As far as the last sentence you wrote - when I tried that, the LEFT pin made the buzzer go off, not the right. But I checked in with Andy where I bought the board and he says that the RIGHT pin is the ground, as the board says. So I'm still a little confused on this point...Although it sounds like for this coil it doesn't matter much...?

[lmrubin]

Did you get it to work ?

I can only get it to work with the regular, plain single strand wire that I had lying around in my house. I still can't get it to work with the RG6, but at this point I'm still pretty confused, partly because I have no idea if it even matters...

[lmrubin]

ok. i tell you what is COLD END and HOT END.

COLD END it is there is not pulse signal. DC. in PI detector it is power line, one of two. plus or minus.

HOT END is active signal. TX signal. in PI system this is the DRAIN pin of MOSFET transistor.

so that all is in RELATION to coil be cause we say about COLD and HOT wire of the coil, in PI system.
then, you MUST solder the shield of cable to COLD, inside wire to HOT.
that must sure be clear for you now. on my DP board terminal connector pins
marked as H and C, because people MUST SEE and understand what-to-where.

I think I understand what you are saying, and it means the PCB is correct. And that's what I had tried. I will try one more time.
And sorry if I'm being dumb, but you are telling me where the RG6 wires connect to the pcb. But at the opposite end, does it matter which end of the coil connects to which on the RG6? And does it matter if it's just a thin diameter coil made from enameled wire, versus the spiral coil made with parallel stereo wire?

[lmrubin]

I think I understand what you are saying, and it means the PCB is correct. And that's what I had tried. I will try one more time.
And sorry if I'm being dumb, but you are telling me where the RG6 wires connect to the pcb. But at the opposite end, does it matter which end of the coil connects to which on the RG6? And does it matter if it's just a thin diameter coil made from enameled wire, versus the spiral coil made with parallel stereo wire?

Oh yeah, one other thing...you had previously told me that I shouldn't use the RG6 that I have because it only has a single, thick copper wire in the center. Are you saying that there is another type of RG6 that has multi strand wire in the middle (don't think so), or are you saying I just shouldn't be using RG6 period? What type of wire should I be using to connect the coil to the board? Thanks in advance.

[6666]

Oh yeah, one other thing...you had previously told me that I shouldn't use the RG6 that I have because it only has a single, thick copper wire in the center. Are you saying that there is another type of RG6 that has multi strand wire in the middle (don't think so), or are you saying I just shouldn't be using RG6 period? What type of wire should I be using to connect the coil to the board? Thanks in advance.

The thing about the coax is, if it only has a single wire for the centre conductor you can use it but you must keep the cable rigid , because over time excessive flexing will fracture and break the wire, a cable like rg58 is multi strand, can take heaps of flexing, and is much lighter and thinner than rg6, there are single conductor rg58 low loss cables as well but use the multi strand.

[6666]

I think I understand what you are saying, and it means the PCB is correct. And that's what I had tried. I will try one more time.
And sorry if I'm being dumb, but you are telling me where the RG6 wires connect to the pcb. But at the opposite end, does it matter which end of the coil connects to which on the RG6? And does it matter if it's just a thin diameter coil made from enameled wire, versus the spiral coil made with parallel stereo wire?

There is something wrong if you cannot get this to work, hence I asked for pictures.
At the coil end one wire connects to shield the other connects to inner conductor, for a bundle wound coil made with enamel copper wire it does not matter which wire you connect.
At the pcb end you will have two connections, these connections are where the two enamel wires you have already soldered to the pcb are, and apparently work.
One connection will be ground if you have a surf then this connection should be battery negative because you have a PFET
Solder the shield to ground
solder the inner conductor to where you had the other copper wire, it should work, do you have a multi meter check the cable connected to the coil for continuity
Is the shield made from aluminium foil , not tinned copper.

[kt315]

you constantly write both COPPER COPPER. chinese EASELY change the copper on steel. EASELY.
they use strange metal that is looking like cooper on color. but it is not copper.
yes, you are living in the world of false and lie.

[lmrubin]

There is something wrong if you cannot get this to work, hence I asked for pictures.
At the coil end one wire connects to shield the other connects to inner conductor, for a bundle wound coil made with enamel copper wire it does not matter which wire you connect.
At the pcb end you will have two connections, these connections are where the two enamel wires you have already soldered to the pcb are, and apparently work.
One connection will be ground if you have a surf then this connection should be battery negative because you have a PFET
Solder the shield to ground
solder the inner conductor to where you had the other copper wire, it should work, do you have a multi meter check the cable connected to the coil for continuity
Is the shield made from aluminium foil , not tinned copper.

Thanks for your help...I didn't want to take up your time with pics, but since you asked again...here are some pics!

[lmrubin]

There is something wrong if you cannot get this to work, hence I asked for pictures.
At the coil end one wire connects to shield the other connects to inner conductor, for a bundle wound coil made with enamel copper wire it does not matter which wire you connect.
At the pcb end you will have two connections, these connections are where the two enamel wires you have already soldered to the pcb are, and apparently work.
One connection will be ground if you have a surf then this connection should be battery negative because you have a PFET
Solder the shield to ground
solder the inner conductor to where you had the other copper wire, it should work, do you have a multi meter check the cable connected to the coil for continuity
Is the shield made from aluminium foil , not tinned copper.

To me, the center wire in the RG6 looks like copper all the way through, although kt315 warns it may not be. The shield feels very thin and looks like aluminum...it's a ***** to solder...

[kt315]

looks like copper all the way through, although kt315 warns it may not be
---
take eurocents in hand. 1,2 and 5. touch them to magnet. what you see?

[lmrubin]

looks like copper all the way through, although kt315 warns it may not be
---
take eurocents in hand. 1,2 and 5. touch them to magnet. what you see?

Smart! (I'm in the US by the way, but I think I understood your meaning). So, you were CORRECT! The wire is very magnetic. So I guess it is NOT copper. So what does that mean for a metal detector though? Unfortunately I don't know what I should be using...

[surfdetector]

Smart! (I'm in the US by the way, but I think I understood your meaning). So, you were CORRECT! The wire is very magnetic. So I guess it is NOT copper. So what does that mean for a metal detector though? Unfortunately I don't know what I should be using...

RG-58CU
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...02?recordNum=3

[kt315]

So, you were CORRECT!
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lol. welcome in new chinese wonderful world.