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Whites Classic, II, III, ID, and IDX Modifications
ANYONE WHO MAY BE ABLE TO HELP ME : I HAVE DONE THE MR. BILL MOD TO MY CLASSIC III AND I'M HAVING SOME TROUBLE . THE MOD DOES'NT SEEM TO WORK RIGHT ONLY WAY I CAN GET A SIGNAL IS WITH THE GEB /DISC TOGGLE ON ANY IDEA WAY AND ALSO DEPTH IN AIR TEST IS ONLY ABOUT 6" WITH A PAIR OF PLIRES AN 2OR3" OR LESS WITH A COIN PLEASE HELP
If you are talking about VR1 and VR4, there is nothing wrong or potentially harmful for your device, so if anything works worse than before, there must be some error.
Did you twist the wires neatly so that they do not pick any EMI on their way? Did you by any chance connect potentiometers to the chassis instead of a signal ground? (because of the antenna-like behaviour, a chassis is not supposed to be used as a ground, and it should be connected to the ground at a single point only)
You could put some photos of your build, and keen eyes of this forum will do the rest.
My old friend is the one who wrapped his White's detector around a tree and ran his bayonette right through it's ten-ringer and mailed it to the factory saying "I killed it". They sent him a new one with modifications for bad ground..
-- is this you ask?
I have read that Mr. Bill used to do his mods to the Surfmaster II. The VLF machine with the standard 9.5” 6.5 khz stickered as “amphibian” coil.
I have one and do not see it in the lineup of supported machines for the mod. I emailed Bill a week or more ago and I am not sure if the email address was still in use or if he responds so I will ask here.
Mr. Bill or anyone knowledgeable can you tell me if the modifications are the same for this machine. I understand that adding external pots would be a chore on a waterproof machine but the depth and sensibility is less than I expected.
I had to replace the coil. I got a brand new one and figured while I am soldering on it this would be the time to do the mods. Interesting that the coil was slightly different it is a 950 style coil with yellow and blue stickers not the older 9.5 blue max types with the yellow and blue Amphibian sticker like it originally had. I purchased the coil from a genuine Whites repair person who sold it is an “Amphibian”. Perhaps Whites changed them at some point. It works; I was just surprised it was different.
I know they had a surfmaster II and a surfmaster II plus. Both VLF Does anyone know the difference?
It is also I little quieter than I expected. I don’t think it would be heard at the beach over the serf. I know this isn’t meant for saltwater I am just saying that to give you an idea of how quiet it is. It has three blue pots on the board but I don’t think volume is one of them.
Thank you for any help in advance. I can’t wait to get out to my local lakes with it.
Surfmaster II and Coinmaster Classic II use same PCB marked like as '505-0170-B'. we discussed on this... but difference of Surfmaster II Plus is unknown, no photos for the comparison...
Yes, I figured that out. Thank you for the reply. I have two control boards the one I was looking at was 505-0170-A. The new old stock one I am using is labeled with the -B. I do not know if that makes it a plus. Both boards are similar.
I will have to reread the thread again. Do you know which of the mods Bill would do to the Surfmaster II? I don't think it got all of them but obviously I do not know. I am compiling my shopping list now and noting the locations. This is great. Thank you.
I just performed all of these mods. I am a retired navy electronics technician.
When connecting the ground balance pot, I just connected it like the original trimmer. I'm not sure if this is correct and I have been unBle to locate any images or references on how the wires connect to the pot. I did see in Mr bills original post that he only used 2 wires...
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