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Thank you for the kind words, now about the water hunting invitation, you wouldn't want to be seen with a grown man in ankle deep water wearing a life preserver lol. Happy to help any way I can, I get alot of satisfaction out of the forums and reading members posts and like to give back any way I can.
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OK Guys, I wired the Tiger Shark up today, and she works GREAT! There's not a lot of info on the TS on the web, so I'm hoping this thread helps some folks. Here's the summary of what I've learned (thanks to kt315 and SkiWhiz).
When replacing the stock old style coil (with waterproof connector), It is possible to wire up a 5 pin Umax coil to your box with new IP68 waterproof connectors shown in the thread above. The board and battery tray are held in the control box with dabs of silicone. Carefully remove the silicone from the edges of the board and tray, and they will come out (you may have to work them loose so be careful not to yank the wires when they break loose. Then, reach inside the control box with wire snips and carefully cut the wires about 1 inch from the coil pinout connector. Also cut the red wire which is soldered to the nut of the pinout connector as close as you can get to the nut. Next, unscrew the headphone connector carefully from the outside of the box (there is no nut inside the box, as the connector threads directly into the box). Now, cut the red and black wires at the splices. Now your pc board and battery tray should come out of the box (be careful not to stress the ribbon cable or other wires too much!). Next, cut the stock connector off of your new Umax coil, and strip the sheath back about 3/4"-1" . Now for the interesting part; You only use 3 wires plus one sheild wrap. (there are 2!) My new coil has grey and violet wires wrapped in a wire shield, and orange and green wires wrapped in another wire shield. Carefully unravel the shields from around the wire sets, and re-twist the shield wires together. Now you can cut the green wire, and the shield (which wrapped the green wire) off, as they are not used.
Next, I soldered red, purple, grey, and black wires 6” long to 4 pins on the inside of the panel (male) plug. I got these wires from inside an old desktop computer I had lying around. Then I soldered the 3 coil wires and 1 sheild wrap , to corresponding pins on the new coil plug. (make sure you slip the plug cover and nut onto the wire first, as you can’t after you solder the plug on).
If you use the plug set I used, they are very clearly labeled front and back for pin numbers. Black wire on pcb side mates to shield wire on coil side.
Next, I sanded the hex protrusion off the bottom of the box where the old coil connector was, as I needed a flat surface here for the new connector. Then you can insert wires from new panel mount connector into the control box and solder them to the corresponding wires coming off pcb board. (I slipped shrink tubing on the wires first so I could apply it after soldering to protect bare wire connections.
As for the headphone wires, a short extension onto pcb wires may make it easier to push the wires thru the connector hole so you can get at them for soldering.
Now carefully re-assemble , using silicone, or I prefer Urethane adhesive to make sure threads are sealed up. Don’t over tighten plastic threaded connectors or you will ruin them!
The red wire which was soldered to the nut has no direct function that I can figure out (my detector works without it hooked up), but just in case, I'm going to put a crimp eyelet on the end and attach it under the nut of the 4/40 x 3/4" stainless machine screws I'm using to mount the panel connector.
I sure hope this helps all you guys who don’t want to lose the coil interchangeability feature you love on your detector. By the way! My detector was bought used, and thus had no warranty for me to worry about losing. NOTE; IF YOUR DETECTOR IS CURRENTLY UNDER WARRANTY, THIS MOD WILL VOID IT!!Comment
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Glad you got it going, good job!!!Comment
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]Hello, I know that this thread has been made for years ... but I have a problem with my tiger shark ... the coil broke, so since I had a row of enameled cable around here I decided to make two coils the rx and tx with their screens when disassembling check everything and the original cables gave me some resistance between the 4 pins that have continuity, I am not sure if there is a pin that is useless ... or it is one for a shield, the coil was useless and was full of resin ... so I could not see exactly how the distribution of cables was going ... I have been trying it for 3 days ... and there was nothing a moment when it does its functions but only when I held it with one hand of the opposite the sound was not complete and distorted ... I hope you can help me it would be a great help images some video etc
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The images did not upload correctly. To attach images to the forum click on "Go Advanced" and select "Manage Attachments".Originally posted by carteroactor View Post]Hello, I know that this thread has been made for years ... but I have a problem with my tiger shark ... the coil broke, so since I had a row of enameled cable around here I decided to make two coils the rx and tx with their screens when disassembling check everything and the original cables gave me some resistance between the 4 pins that have continuity, I am not sure if there is a pin that is useless ... or it is one for a shield, the coil was useless and was full of resin ... so I could not see exactly how the distribution of cables was going ... I have been trying it for 3 days ... and there was nothing a moment when it does its functions but only when I held it with one hand of the opposite the sound was not complete and distorted ... I hope you can help me it would be a great help images some video etc
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Tesoro Tiger Shark ..
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You have a TX coil and an RX coil but I see no bucking (nulling) coil. Without it, the first amplifier is constantly overloaded.Comment
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Hello, so the screen has nothing to do with that coil that you say is missing? You would be so kind to explain to me how and in what way they would connect to be able to make this relic work. . First of all thank you for accepting me and for any kind of help.
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pls repair your problem with uploading of pics.Comment
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Tesoro Tiger Shark ..
I apologize, I do not know the reason why this is so ... I did not upload photos in that text ... sorry
I apologize, I do not know the reason why this is so ... I did not upload photos in that text ... sorryComment
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You need a feedback winding on the RX coil to create a magnetic null. To accomplish this, you'll need an oscilloscope. Here is an article that explains IB coil construction:
https://www.geotech1.com/pages/metde...planar_300.pdfComment
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Thank you very much Carl-NC, without a doubt you are very kind, I tell you that I managed to make it work and I no longer have the interferences, but there is always a but ... the signal did not increase which was what I wanted to do when increasing the diameter from 20cm to 25cm tx and 10cm rx, I am going to read very carefully the pdf that you provided me and I thank you for your help .. a hug from the Canary Islands, I will upload the progress ... in case there were any ... hahahahaComment
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coil tesoro tiger shark
Hello again, as I said I think that now it works ... with its defects, of course: the tone is still of little scope to have increased the diameter of the coil it would say that even less than the original ... on the other hand I have to have the threshold and sensitivity practically to the maximum to be able to receive the pi .. the small objects are captured but with great difficulty the big ones with less ... I don't know if it is for the coils or for the original resistors and capacitors components ... I .. I hope help I am fond of electronics and discovered that I love it. greetings ... I hope I can fix it and make some outings with him ..
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