3D printed Submesible headphones.

[Tibuck19]

I design a 3d printable water resistant submersible headset based off an existing 3d model, I wanted to post in here in case it could help someone out. they were printed with a nylon base filament call Bridge which is chemical and heat and water resistant filament made by the fine folks at Taulman which BTW, they have excellent costumer care, you can buy from the direct, just send Tom a email at [email protected] .

I will provide the STL files that can be found here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2131268 everything is all snap together fit, I ended up using 55mm 0.2 watt 32ohms speakers which I salvage from a bunch of old telephones, They are more then loud enough for me.

I am unsure how to post photos in threads, so I posted the photos in my GeoTech profile http://www.geotech1.com/forums/album.php?albumid=76.

[6666]

Nice job on 3D printing, what printer do you have ?

[Qiaozhi]

I am unsure how to post photos in threads, ...

Click on "Reply" or "Reply with Quote", and then select "Go Advanced".
Then scroll down the page until you see "Manage Attachments".
From there it should be fairly obvious what you need to do.

[Tibuck19]

Thanks, im sure we all know the cost waterproof/ submersible head set! with speaker and filament not counting time it took to draw, the come in at round 12$, one could even cut the cost in half by printing with ABS filament. I have 2 Original Prusa i3.

[Tibuck19]

[Tibuck19]

Click on "Reply" or "Reply with Quote", and then select "Go Advanced".
Then scroll down the page until you see "Manage Attachments".
From there it should be fairly obvious what you need to do.

Thank you , I was trying to attach a photo with-out it being in a album.

[WM6]

Nice work. Congratulations.
Curious how 3d printed box perform as watertight?

[Tibuck19]

If one was to print a 5 sided box and a face plate with your bottom layers and top layers to match well with your infill the layer bonds will be water tight, If you look at the photos it's PVC Tube with a cap on both ends that were 3d printed out of ABS, i only used a O Ring on the inside of the caps for tight seal but it is fully submersible.

[WM6]

Excellent.

[ionut_mtb]

tell us more about the printer, i saw that come as a diy kit. looks nice and not so expensive. is good to create some parts.

[Tibuck19]

tell us more about the printer, i saw that come as a diy kit. looks nice and not so expensive. is good to create some parts.

My printers were, Sourced out parts (electronics, motors,...) and a bunch scrap plywood's that I had in the shop, once I had a running crude version of the original Prusa I3 I had all the aluminum parts such as frames and bed carriage cut out 1/4" Aluminum from a local metal shop, and used the printer to make better parts, staying true to the idea of reprap and open source community, Eventually I ended up with a very decent workhorse printers, and because I took the time to learn by getting my hands dirt and my brain working on how it all comes together, much like I am doing now with metal detectors. But now days unlike when I got into the hole 3d printing hype, you can easily buy a DIY kit for next to nothing, The original designer now sells his printer which I highly recommend, and then their is all those badly made cheap as can be china Kits which I don't recommend AT ALL loll, On the flip end of things, one can get a more expensive printer like a Ultimaker ($2000 ~ $4000) which are pretty much Plug and play and produce fantastic prints almost right out of the box. Keep I mind I am talking about FDM printers which is a very different from SLA or SLS printer Im not sure if that answered any of your questions if not, just ask lol