Tesoro Toltec II

[ivconic]

Thank you for this project, Ivconic! I?m novice in 3d printing and 3d drawing. First i?ve used Tinkercad same like you. It is very simple and easy. But after i?ve managed to install Solid works. It is great software and you only need few youtube tutorials to use it. Less time consuming than tinkercad.

That's very interesting info, thanks!
I know about Solid Works, have heard but never tried.
I will try it as soon as possible!

[ivconic]

You're right!!!
He had same issue with the tapered angle from fore to aft. Ha ha!
I think that the tapered sides add to the intrinsic beauty of the tesoro box, it is a gorgeous box!! Hats off to the designer.
I'm sure there is other software which can handle those peculiarities.

Indeed it is nice piece of work.
Tesoro did splendid move with those enclosures.
On the other topic, the other day; i tried to explain the "soul and character" of those detectors.
I was thinking first to make files of exact copy and later to scale it in size as i like, for different pcbs.
I am half way there.
Will try Solid Works to solve this problem with angles.

[Qiaozhi]

If the original case is injection moulded, then the angle is required to ease removal of the part from the mould.
In that case it's more likely to be a necessary part of the manufacturing process rather than a design feature.

[6666]

Yes it can.
Cura 3.6.0
Later when printed; just pull out supports.
Needle-nose pliers is the best tool for this.

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Oh yes with supports it would, how easy do your supports come off, what Support Z Distance do you use and what layer height, I try and use the same Support Z distance as layer height

[dbanner]

If the original case is injection moulded, then the angle is required to ease removal of the part from the mould.
In that case it's more likely to be a necessary part of the manufacturing process rather than a design feature.

Yes, that makes a lot of sense. If that is the reason then it worked out nicely for the tesoro box, it made the box quite good looking.
Of course the designer must take credit for the gradient of the slope.
That has to be one one the best chassis box designs ever, for a metal detector.

Here is a PCB designd to fit in such a box, A bandido circuit.

[ivconic]

Oh yes with supports it would, how easy do your supports come off, what Support Z Distance do you use and what layer height, I try and use the same Support Z distance as layer height

I use defaults for "Normal" profile. It's 0.1mm Z distance and 0.15mm layer height.
That's why i like Cura; we could exchange proven profiles for specific kind of printing, without dealing with details.
Usually i do take some of the default profiles and change only few parameters to suit specific kind of printing.
Than i save those as custom profile for any future use. Profiles are small exchangeable files, easy to send via email.
Some of the very good profiles i took from Facebook groups.
Cura is totally free and very powerful slicer. I suggest it.
How easy supports come off; good question indeed. Not that easy and yet not that hard too.
I guess i could adjust parameters better, to make supports come off easier.
But with pliers it come off with no problems at all. I don't even take any attention not to break the print, since it is very strong and robust.
It is better to pull hard and fast with pliers, supports just breaks and slips out easily.
But since we are talking here on bit more advanced things; it is good to exchange opinions and experiences, i am sure it can be adjusted better, for supports to even come off easier.

[ivconic]

If the original case is injection moulded, then the angle is required to ease removal of the part from the mould.
In that case it's more likely to be a necessary part of the manufacturing process rather than a design feature.

Yes that makes sense too.
You see; that's the difference between me and you!
To you the glass is half empty and to me the glass is usually half full!
I like to think it is design feature!

[ivconic]

Yes, that makes a lot of sense. If that is the reason then it worked out nicely for the tesoro box, it made the box quite good looking.
Of course the designer must take credit for the gradient of the slope.
That has to be one one the best chassis box designs ever, for a metal detector.

Here is a PCB designd to fit in such a box, A bandido circuit.

That's really cool!
I wanted to see that, indeed!
Thanks!

[dbanner]

Seems like you are going all in on this one, so here some files. The components placement for the fancy pancy board layout are in eagle.
I look forward to seeing your "BandidoIIIuMax", complete with the new box. I know it is too good to resist for you.
You are diy'er junkie.

[Nandor]

Very cool PCB!

Have you made it?

[ivconic]

Seems like you are going all in on this one, so here some files. The components placement for the fancy pancy board layout are in eagle.
I look forward to seeing your "BandidoIIIuMax", complete with the new box. I know it is too good to resist for you.
You are diy'er junkie.

I proudly admit that.
I can't imagine my life without that.

[Qiaozhi]

Yes that makes sense too.
You see; that's the difference between me and you!
To you the glass is half empty and to me the glass is usually half full!
I like to think it is design feature!

Actually, to me, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

[dbanner]

Very cool PCB!

Have you made it?

No, I haven't.

Some guy going by the forum name of De Patoche on the TSF-Radio forum posted those files in 2016. Looks like he made the fancy board and made a clone of the bandidoIIuMax.
I got them from that forum, perhaps he posted them somewhere here as well.
http://www.tsf-radio.org/forum/forum.php?show=252976

[6666]

I use defaults for "Normal" profile. It's 0.1mm Z distance and 0.15mm layer height.

Thanks, I am useing cura 4.0.0 , I find it gives me less stringing, and I mainly use the default "normal" with a little tweaking mainly layer height and Z distance, I mainly print small items with lots of surface detail (1:100 ww2 tanks and cars ) and supports can ruin the surface , the Z Distance can have a huge difference in how easy they are to remove.
Most of my print profiles have come from facebook, but have had varying results, but I generally make the Z distance equal layer height.
If I am just prototyping, I will print at .28, and not mess too much with other settings , but its good to discuss what other people are doing.
Another hot day coming up here but cannot open any windows as the air is filled with bush fire smoke and it smells bad

[ivconic]

Thanks, I am useing cura 4.0.0 , I find it gives me less stringing, and I mainly use the default "normal" with a little tweaking mainly layer height and Z distance, I mainly print small items with lots of surface detail (1:100 ww2 tanks and cars ) and supports can ruin the surface , the Z Distance can have a huge difference in how easy they are to remove.
Most of my print profiles have come from facebook, but have had varying results, but I generally make the Z distance equal layer height.
If I am just prototyping, I will print at .28, and not mess too much with other settings , but its good to discuss what other people are doing.
Another hot day coming up here but cannot open any windows as the air is filled with bush fire smoke and it smells bad

This is productive to me, because from now on i will pay more attention on Z distance.
I had certain problems with supports at some prints.
They affect surface and make it ugly. Later i have additional work to smooth them. Usually sharp blade and sanding paper.
That's why i adopted habit to "plan" carefully when drawing. In advance i try to adapt drawing to be later printed with "ugly" sides hidden somehow.
But now you gave me idea to experiment more with Z distance and try to minimize the problem.