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I just order my 10K Potentiometer I want to try Just Bought my NEL Tornado coil and if I can get this ground balance going I'll have a Great Machine...
hi i'd say its still auto balancing but with only the power im giving it ( someone with some knowledge could explain this alot better than i could ,,, but im a newbie to modding stuff / very new ),, turned fully clockwise gets much better results probably about 3 inchs difference from full anti clockwise and as i said the display numbers have changed a bit . let me know how the coil gets on. . ps im still yet to get out on the field with it due to weather but maybe this weekend cant wait
the mod is very simple check out the other f2 post photos look for the 20 ohm resistor ( bottom right of pic )( blue resistor ) remove it and put your pot in its place
I suspect the reason your numbers have changed is because you have changed the "angle" between the I and Q channels (Ground and Disc). Unless they are EXACTLY 90 degrees (or whatever the difference in "phase" is between the two sampling pulses for the demodulators, Yes, you HAVE indeed ground balanced your machine, but at the expense of less accurate discrimination (at least the relationship between what the display shows and what the target really is at any rate).
I would think the designers used a fixed resistor for price as a SOT (Select On Test). When the machines are made, the PCB will be fitted in a jig with a POT (probably electronic controlled) in place of the resistor. The test program then goes through the range until it finds the closest to ideal and shows a value which is then soldered in place. Pot = $0.50, Fixed res=$0.02!
ALL these "bottom end" machines are made as cheaply as possible. Fisher (or Bounty Hunter as they now are) are no exception.
If it's auto ground balancing, why do you want to manually set it anyhow (unless you need an offest)? Sorry to sound like a Jonah but I don't think the way you are doing this is the right one for this particular machine.
I don't think the fixed resistor's value is important, they just used a small value resistor as a zero-ohm link. It might possibly be representative of the minimum end-resistance of the pot, if it were fitted. There is a seperate master ground-balance pot to set the zero phase. The reason the target ID's change is because the microcontroller is unaware of the GB pot setting, it performs the same ID calculation regardless. If consistent ID value is important for the kind of hunt you're doing, set the GB pot for neutral-ground.
Badbaja: I don't really think this machine is suited to a highly-mineralised beach, with or without GB.
now done. . many thanks for that. . been running mine from 12 v converyted from old drill . .lost power gauge but seems alot more perky !
how did you wire the battery to the machine? no extra components? so you have raised the voltage to 12?
its almost no snow left in northern norway, so im starting to get my gear ready for detecting =) ordered me a nel tornado too =)
Last edited by brudulje; 04-27-2013, 10:58 AM.
Reason: bad spelling
I used an old cordless makita drill that i cut the handle / battery compartment from . And then taped to top of md . . Really well balanced too . Soldered wires to contact points inside handle then wired to battery points in md.. . . Very worth while i think and saves a lot of cash/clad . . . The batteries i use are the makita 12 v . 1.3 Ah they charge in under 1 hour . . . It still works very well and i still use it . Tho not as much as used to as i now have an ex11 . . . The only drawback is that i losed the battery gauge . . I change he battery after a couple of hours or when it starts to become erratic.and i think its more perky too. . . . Let me know how the coil goes
If you need a pic let me know . . Although it was pretty straight forward . . Hope it helps
thanks for the quick answer =) one last question; did you wire the contact plates from the two original batteries in parallel to the new battery? so that it delivers 12v to all 4 connection plates?
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