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felezjoo PI(the best pulse induction metal detector that I made until now)
I use the same boxes but I find it difficult to grip the
I sent you a pm.
It was one of those guys, i can't remember which one, because i got my enclosures and stems indirectly by some Bulgarian women who frequently travels from Montana, Bulgaria to Serbia.
So most certain one of those guys, but not exactly sure which one.
This project is dead now! No one is still interested to it for the reason of annoing reprogramming the chip..i think it only get alive back when there is a full version on hex.. I keep on looking to other forum but i notice that all builder are longing for full version and many has difficulties in making it work as expected. Even me myself made this machine work impressly will not introduce to other hobbyst to try building it.
I gave up on the project after I discovered my AVR programmer stopped working after a PC mother board change and no luck getting a usb programmer working on my laptop, pickit works 100%, these avr's are a pain.
I gave up on the project after I discovered my AVR programmer stopped working after a PC mother board change and no luck getting a usb programmer working on my laptop, pickit works 100%, these avr's are a pain.
Actually you don't have to torture yourself with such programmers, no need for that at all.
Just obtain Arduino and all your problems are solved at once.
Original Arduino UNO is ~20 euros, copy made in China is ~8 euros.
Both working nice. I have 3 originals and one copy made in China.
2 original Megas, one original UNO and one UNO made in China.
Anyone will do.
Pick anyone and buy, than everything is easy with it.
Actually you don't have to torture yourself with such programmers, no need for that at all.
Just obtain Arduino and all your problems are solved at once.
Original Arduino UNO is ~20 euros, copy made in China is ~8 euros.
Both working nice. I have 3 originals and one copy made in China.
2 original Megas, one original UNO and one UNO made in China.
Anyone will do.
Pick anyone and buy, than everything is easy with it.
Yes i am using ordinary LF357 obtained in local shop.
At first it looks suspicious to me, kind a "rebranded" LF357 (we talked about that earlier on this topic)... but later it turns out it did a job.
Small hint;
UNO made in China usually comes with pre-soldered SMD Atmega328P... which is not good.
Original UNO comes with DIL Atmega328P ... which is FANTASTIC!
Both will be good for flashing another Atmega328P.
But as i discovered; much much easier is to use original one, take out original Atmega and put empty one to flash with FelezJoo hex file.
First you must flash bootloader into empty Atmega... which is piece of cake.
And maybe even you don't need to do that; in case you buy new Atmega with pre-flashed bootloader.
In case you buy Chinese clone with smd version of Atmega... no problem, but than you will have to use it in programmer mode and not in direct mode.
All these "how is done" you can easily find on the internet, in form of online manuals explained in steps.
But it is very easy and very fast, don't worry.
I tossed all my old programmers which i used so far; Arduino changed my life to better!
Small hint;
UNO made in China usually comes with pre-soldered SMD Atmega328P... which is not good.
Original UNO comes with DIL Atmega328P ... which is FANTASTIC!
Both will be good for flashing another Atmega328P.
But as i discovered; much much easier is to use original one, take out original Atmega and put empty one to flash with FelezJoo hex file.
First you must flash bootloader into empty Atmega... which is piece of cake.
And maybe even you don't need to do that; in case you buy new Atmega with pre-flashed bootloader.
In case you buy Chinese clone with smd version of Atmega... no problem, but than you will have to use it in programmer mode and not in direct mode.
All these "how is done" you can easily find on the internet, in form of online manuals explained in steps.
But it is very easy and very fast, don't worry.
I tossed all my old programmers which i used so far; Arduino changed my life to better!
Thanks, I had a quick look on ebay and there are some with Atmega328P DIL plug in chips so will order one right now. What about burning fuses ?
I saw the smd chips as well, avoided them.
Thanks, I had a quick look on ebay and there are some with Atmega328P DIL plug in chips so will order one right now. What about burning fuses ?
I saw the smd chips as well, avoided them.
You may manipulate fuses through avrdude, it is included in Arduino installation.
Though... i heard (yet never tried) that there is separate GUI based soft especially for adjusting fuses.
You don't need to pay especial worries about fuses right now, just flash hex and enjoy. It will work like a charm.
You may manipulate fuses through avrdude, it is included in Arduino installation.
Though... i heard (yet never tried) that there is separate GUI based soft especially for adjusting fuses.
You don't need to pay especial worries about fuses right now, just flash hex and enjoy. It will work like a charm
Thanks have just ordered a UNO, being posted from here in Australia so hopefully it will be here in a week or so.
Thanks have just ordered a UNO, being posted from here in Australia so hopefully it will be here in a week or so.
As for direct flashing into new Atmega (put into dil socket instead UNO's Atmega which you will temporary remove from UNO) best soft so far for me is: ArduinoUnoUploaderTool.
Here: http://rlangoy.github.io/Arduino-Uno-Uploader-Tool/
Do explore it's other adjustments, you will see direct avrdude manipulation there and proper syntax (many people have difficulties with proper syntax).
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