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felezjoo PI(the best pulse induction metal detector that I made until now)
Strange?
If you programmed Atmega correctly than it should switch ON and run with no problems.
Disconnect LCD pin 3. from pcb, add 10k potentiometer, middle pot pin on 3. pin of LCD, pot ends to +5v and gnd.
Backlight; disconnect LCD pin 15. from pcb and put 220ohms resistor on it and connect to +5v.
Try to adjust contrast with 10k pot.
If you still can't see nothing on LCD than your Atmega is not programmed well. Or you have some other problem on pcb.
Additionally check LCD pin 5. - it should be connected to gnd.
Yes you should hear short "beep" sound after switching it On.
More than strange !!
I put a 22kom trimmer on LCD pin3. Now i have a full black line (the upper line).
I tryed with 3 differents LCD unit (2 new ones), i tryed several chips.
All the power supplies are good (12v and 5v) on the LCD AND on the AVR.
My unit is divides in 2 box :
1 st : LCD, keyboard, battery pack and ON button
2nd : PCB, audio and coil connectors
The two boxes are connected with 20cm SCART wire (20 wires).
Is it possible that the cable lenght is too long ?
I tested each connection in resistance and isolation.
I don't know what to do.
I use extrem burner, firmware 3.30 and the fuses are Lfuse F7, Hfuse D1 and Efuse FC
The board is so simple, i don't understand why it does not work.
The sound issue was because i took a BC327 instead of a 337 ..
More than strange !!
I put a 22kom trimmer on LCD pin3. Now i have a full black line (the upper line).
I tryed with 3 differents LCD unit (2 new ones), i tryed several chips.
All the power supplies are good (12v and 5v) on the LCD AND on the AVR.
My unit is divides in 2 box :
1 st : LCD, keyboard, battery pack and ON button
2nd : PCB, audio and coil connectors
The two boxes are connected with 20cm SCART wire (20 wires).
Is it possible that the cable lenght is too long ?
I tested each connection in resistance and isolation.
I don't know what to do.
I use extrem burner, firmware 3.30 and the fuses are Lfuse F7, Hfuse D1 and Efuse FC
The board is so simple, i don't understand why it does not work.
The sound issue was because i took a BC327 instead of a 337 ..
I bunt the last firmware in a new chip with the right fuses and extrem burner and i have the same issue.
I'm tired of that caus i spent much time building a nice case.
I'll try with LCD And less cable but that means i will destroy my nice asembly
Anyway, does the project works with a 486uH 1,5ohm coil ? Cause i'm building a nice one
Thanks
More than strange !!
I put a 22kom trimmer on LCD pin3. Now i have a full black line (the upper line).
I tryed with 3 differents LCD unit (2 new ones), i tryed several chips.
All the power supplies are good (12v and 5v) on the LCD AND on the AVR.
My unit is divides in 2 box :
1 st : LCD, keyboard, battery pack and ON button
2nd : PCB, audio and coil connectors
The two boxes are connected with 20cm SCART wire (20 wires).
Is it possible that the cable lenght is too long ?
I tested each connection in resistance and isolation.
I don't know what to do.
I use extrem burner, firmware 3.30 and the fuses are Lfuse F7, Hfuse D1 and Efuse FC
The board is so simple, i don't understand why it does not work.
The sound issue was because i took a BC327 instead of a 337 ..
So you have sound or not?
In case you have sound than problem is around LCD.
It is not about cable length, don't waste your time on that.
Double check the cabling between LCD and pcb.
Maybe you twisted wires?
And at the end maybe LCD is bad.
Attach any kind of coil, switch it On and wait 5-10 seconds (to initialize) than try detection on metal.
If you hear detection sound than it's only about LCD and connection to pcb.
Try another LCD.
I have sound ? i'm not sure of that. I put a headphone plug and when i plug the headphone, i can hear very low volume clicks.
When i turn the unit on, i can hear a very low DC signal (just a click).
That should means that the AVR is alive.
I have a fourth lcd, i'll try tonight but i'm sure of the wiring (checked 5 times).
Thanks
When you see the first line full black, that means that the LCD is powered on but nothing on the com port.
That's what i found from arduino forum.
I have something on D4-D5-D6-D7 (between 2 and 4v).
I don't understand why 3 differents lcd units are faulty (2 new ones).
I'll try with a last one and then, i thing i'll change hobby
I have sound ? i'm not sure of that. I put a headphone plug and when i plug the headphone, i can hear very low volume clicks.
When i turn the unit on, i can hear a very low DC signal (just a click). That should means that the AVR is alive.
I have a fourth lcd, i'll try tonight but i'm sure of the wiring (checked 5 times).
Thanks
So you don't hear sound, audio produced by Avr?
Ok, than your Avr is not programmed well and most probably your LCD is alright.
If your Avr is programmed well and wired on pcb well; you must hear "beep" sound loud and clear, after powering it On.
I'm agree with you but i have experience in AVR burning so, i'm sure of what i did.
I tryed with extrem burner and with avrdude :
avrdude -c usbasp -p m328p -u -U flash:w:FrelezJoo_PI_v3_30.hex
avrdude -c usbasp -p m328p -U lfuse:w:0xf7:m -U hfuse:w:0xd1:m -U efuse:w:0xfc:m
The two way works without any error exept reading errors after programming cause the fuses are programmed to work with external crystal oscillator.
My head is going to explode with this issue
I lauched the frelezjoo pi version 3.30 in extrem burner and i made a screen copy of the flash bytes. The i read the flash of the ATMEGA and made a screen copy and it's the same.
The AVR is then well programmed. I changed the LCD for a 4th one and : same issue
I thought it would have been a good idea to change the 20MHZ crystal, what i did and it's the same. No more idea for tonight
I'm agree with you but i have experience in AVR burning so, i'm sure of what i did.
I tryed with extrem burner and with avrdude :
avrdude -c usbasp -p m328p -u -U flash:w:FrelezJoo_PI_v3_30.hex
avrdude -c usbasp -p m328p -U lfuse:w:0xf7:m -U hfuse:w:0xd1:m -U efuse:w:0xfc:m
The two way works without any error exept reading errors after programming cause the fuses are programmed to work with external crystal oscillator.
My head is going to explode with this issue
Wat programmer are you using?
Presumably some Usbasp or similar?
Also, are you typing avrdude parameters in cmd or you are using some of the gui's ?
Why don't you try something odd; just flash hex file without worrying too much on fuses?
I am suggesting this because i notice that E fuse is always turning different from what i type in Avrdudess.
Now.. i am too lazy to inspect why it is happening, but i flashed hex once without setting up the fuses and it works the same good as when i adjust fuses precisely!?
I assume it's because Avrdudess's defaults are alright.
Here is the reminder: http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc
... I recently added cheap Chinese Usbasp dongle to my "arsenal". And on first try i also got "dead" LCD!!
Flashing went "alright" but later device was dead with blank LCD!
So stubborn as i am; i spent whole afternoon to inspect that.
And the whole thing was about obsolete f/w in dongle (slow sck provoked constant alerts and errors).
So, what i did; i opened it and located "self-programming" jumper somehow (not marked, hidden, so i had to trace chip pins and traces) and than using
Arduino UNO as ISP i flashed new (and very good) f/w in it. From here: http://www.fischl.de/usbasp/
On next try it started to work like a charm (no more sck alerts), again flashed Atmega and detector works 100% correct.
I did whole thing just to avoid bootloader presence on Atmega, because newest version 3.30 has conflicts with it.
The results you already seen on my last youtube video in one of the previous posts.
So... sometimes even when flashing went "alright" - actually it is not alright. (Goof old times of parallel programming! Now i am stuck with USB because my laptop is not having parallel.)
Especially if you mess too much with typing in cmd. Huge chance to miss or mismatch some parameter.
Good old DOS times has passed long time ago! Maybe this story will give you a hint and help you ... and maybe wont.
But there is no way to help you like this remotely, you must do it on your own.
...
BTW Extreme Burner sucks! Avrdudess and eePe RULEZ!
I lauched the frelezjoo pi version 3.30 in extrem burner and i made a screen copy of the flash bytes. The i read the flash of the ATMEGA and made a screen copy and it's the same.
The AVR is then well programmed. I changed the LCD for a 4th one and : same issue
I thought it would have been a good idea to change the 20MHZ crystal, what i did and it's the same. No more idea for tonight
Could be crystal too.
Could be bad fuses.
Could be "electric" fault somewhere on pcb.
How about voltages on pcb?
Are those proper?
Do you measure clean 12v and 5v after the voltage regulators?
LCD pin2. is 5v? (obviously is, since you getting line with bars).
How about Atmega328P power supply pins, voltages on them?
Check respectively pins: 8,22 are GND and 7,20 are +5V.
I bet it is some stupid and trivial problem!
First, i want to thank you for your help.
I'm using cheap usbasp without any problem since one year.
Extreme burner seems to be bad when using ATMEGA328P (it has been added in the file chip.xml in data folder).
I found out that when i flash the hex, i have a "done" message with only a reading error... ok
I figured out that the first bytes where at "FF" state instead of the hex file i want to burn. For the fuses, no problem, it works as expected.
I then used avrdude in CMD to burn the hex and read the content of the flash with extreme burner and now, i can see the flash well programmed.
Tomorow, i'll put a second eye in that problem, the night mabe will give me the force.
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