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  • sorry!!!!

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    • Originally posted by Orbit View Post
      hekskod wrong !!!!!!!!!!!!!can not be resolved Turkish business !
      sorry!!!

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      • Everyone has to treated his high-effort !! all the best elbombaci !!!!!!! good time !!

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        • Hi strujas

          The problem that you experienced with your LCD screen as you have stated:"...Today after dozen times of turning on and off my lcd finally gave signs of life..." has also happened to me after I connected the Topway LCD to my Delta Pulse 2+ board. In order to solve your problem go to the Thunting thread where I have explained how to solve the problem with the garbled letters on the top row of the LCD. The thread is: http://www.thunting.com/smf/pi_desig...t28025.25.html

          Hope this helps you and other experimenters/DIYers out there who are experiening the same type of problem with their Delta Pulse 2+ LCD.

          Obrigado

          Ciao

          Speedy_G

          Comment


          • fOR YOUR kat315 ... And congratulations to improve delat pulse .. I want to ask about the R 59 END R 60 THE RESISTANCE associated with shields banners and below SIDED. Why do you use and resistance and not directly gnd ...Thanks beforehand G.S
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            • GS, I copied this way from DEEPERS 10DD. thinking this has a right to be there. try to connect directly and tell about your experience.

              yours

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Speedy_G View Post
                Hi strujas

                The problem that you experienced with your LCD screen as you have stated:"...Today after dozen times of turning on and off my lcd finally gave signs of life..." has also happened to me after I connected the Topway LCD to my Delta Pulse 2+ board. In order to solve your problem go to the Thunting thread where I have explained how to solve the problem with the garbled letters on the top row of the LCD. The thread is: http://www.thunting.com/smf/pi_desig...t28025.25.html

                Hope this helps you and other experimenters/DIYers out there who are experiening the same type of problem with their Delta Pulse 2+ LCD.

                Obrigado

                Ciao

                Speedy_G
                Hi! Speedy_G do you have information about PIC K150 programmer i use this programmer (and not the PICKIT2) which i think is not good, when i turn on the LCD there are many characters running on top. when i edit the fuse config. the display is DELTA PULSE 2+. hope you can help me with this. thank you!

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                • Originally posted by Saromines Ramiel View Post
                  Hi! Speedy_G do you have information about PIC K150 programmer i use this programmer (and not the PICKIT2) which i think is not good, when i turn on the LCD there are many characters running on top. when i edit the fuse config. the display is DELTA PULSE 2+. hope you can help me with this. thank you!
                  Hi Saromines Ramiel

                  I think that the best person to answer your query would be one of your own compatriots, namely Ram, who also resides in the Phillipines where you are. He is the Guru in programming PICs and Atmegas. I have no experience with PIC programmer K150 and I have only used Pickit2 which worked flawlessly for me. I can only reiterate my advice given to members of the Thunting forum (as I mentioned in my previous post in this forum) that generally the problem that you have discovered, namely, quote: "...when i turn on the LCD there are many characters running on top." is really just the result of some incompatibility in triggering the 20 MHz crystal of the 18F252 which has to synchronize with the LCD frequency. In other words, with some of these LCD modules, the Delta Pulse Logo does not appear automatically and only garbled letters appear on the top row of LCD screen. This situation occurs when one uses the LCD models WH1602b (Winstar), DEM16216, GDM1602A or LMB162GDC (Topway) - I found that this situation was much improved without changing the software (hex file), but using a different LCD model, such as ACM1602S (American Zettler Inc), MC1602J-SYL (Everbouquet) or DV-20400 (Data Vision).

                  Hope this goes some way to answering your question

                  Ciao

                  Speedy_G

                  Comment


                  • kt315 you have schematic by deepers 10dd can you give me to check it...
                    ALSO I have a thought about how to make separation with cmos... without microprocessor and silly led flashing agree kt
                    Simplicity is developing...

                    Comment


                    • yet no. if there will be for example 10 men on PCB I will be ready to go and to order 20pcs batch for start. anotherway I have not a stimulus to labour and share the info.

                      yours

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Speedy_G View Post
                        Hi Saromines Ramiel

                        I think that the best person to answer your query would be one of your own compatriots, namely Ram, who also resides in the Phillipines where you are. He is the Guru in programming PICs and Atmegas. I have no experience with PIC programmer K150 and I have only used Pickit2 which worked flawlessly for me. I can only reiterate my advice given to members of the Thunting forum (as I mentioned in my previous post in this forum) that generally the problem that you have discovered, namely, quote: "...when i turn on the LCD there are many characters running on top." is really just the result of some incompatibility in triggering the 20 MHz crystal of the 18F252 which has to synchronize with the LCD frequency. In other words, with some of these LCD modules, the Delta Pulse Logo does not appear automatically and only garbled letters appear on the top row of LCD screen. This situation occurs when one uses the LCD models WH1602b (Winstar), DEM16216, GDM1602A or LMB162GDC (Topway) - I found that this situation was much improved without changing the software (hex file), but using a different LCD model, such as ACM1602S (American Zettler Inc), MC1602J-SYL (Everbouquet) or DV-20400 (Data Vision).

                        Hope this goes some way to answering your question

                        Ciao

                        Speedy_G
                        Thanks for the reply Speedy_G,I think it helps!

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by jap View Post
                          Hi alonejax
                          -U entered into a problem using another number
                          U use irfp460,,,If U returned to the original number may get rid of the problem,
                          -The original is IRF740 or 840------>Must be tested by the first.
                          best time
                          j.[ATTACH]24090[/ATTACH]
                          thanks jap
                          i change mosfet to irf740 but when i start , ihave 2.15 A
                          don,t have 150ma
                          i think i must change my coil, is this true?
                          my coil is 30 turn of 0.35 with 3.4 ohm resistant then i paralel with 9ohm resistant
                          for 3 ohm coil
                          can you guide me please ?

                          Comment


                          • [QUOTE=porkluvr;169578]One problem you have is that your damping resistor is probably too high for the coil you are using. I can't really tell you what is best (not with any certainty) because that depends on your coil, cable, FET... and some other things. From what you told me earlier I calculate your coil inductance at about 460uH, with only 1.9Ω series resistance. You previously stated the resistance being higher, but did you subtract the multimeters lead resistance??

                            All I can do from here is plug in an IRFP460 spice model into quick DP transmitter simulation in LTspice, make an "educated" guess at your coil parameters, and then try out different damping resistors. I look at settling times, and the value of damping resistor that settles the fastest is "the winner". That might seem dumb, but I don't have any better way of working.

                            What I have determined is that something like 430Ω or maybe 390Ω (2W) would probably be a better choice for your damping.

                            I can only guess at the coil and cable capacitance of your rig, so, my analysis is not very scientific. It is a lot of guesswork. But, my unscientific (virtual) analysis seems to indicate that with 680 ohms, your coil's fly-back would take more than 50us to settle, which bothers me. With the correct damper you may be able to knock 20us off that time.

                            By the way... the big honking "1.5k" resistor in your picture looks to me more like 1.0kΩ, (brown black red gold (?!), and that, being the preamp input resistor affects my "winner". I will assume you are using 1.0kΩ unless you tell me different. But that resistor's effect is not nearly so great as your coil/cable combination, and like I said, that is a big guess from where I sit.

                            Damping resistors are something that have to be determined through trial and error, so having multiple values to play with is a good thing. You can try paralleling 1/2 watt resistors across the damper until you can determine the "correct" damper value, but that is not meant to be permanent. A 1/2 W resistor will not withstand 500V pulses for very long...

                            hi porkluvr
                            i change that resistant to 680 ohm & change my mosfet to irf740
                            now when i start not 150ma, this is 2.15A..

                            Comment


                            • happy new year to all...

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Speedy_G View Post
                                Hi strujas

                                The problem that you experienced with your LCD screen as you have stated:"...Today after dozen times of turning on and off my lcd finally gave signs of life..." has also happened to me after I connected the Topway LCD to my Delta Pulse 2+ board. In order to solve your problem go to the Thunting thread where I have explained how to solve the problem with the garbled letters on the top row of the LCD. The thread is: http://www.thunting.com/smf/pi_desig...t28025.25.html

                                Hope this helps you and other experimenters/DIYers out there who are experiening the same type of problem with their Delta Pulse 2+ LCD.

                                Obrigado

                                Ciao

                                Speedy_G
                                Thak you Speedy , I have tried your modifications with value of C8, even I tried to reduce values of C5,C4,C2 but without success.
                                I am using PIC 18f252 - I/SP
                                and LCD Winstar WH1602B-TMI-ET#
                                It only remain to try new pic or new LCD, these days i will find the solution and inform you all....
                                Regards

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