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  • Originally posted by alonejax View Post
    thanks jap
    i change mosfet to irf740 but when i start , ihave 2.15 A
    don,t have 150ma
    i think i must change my coil, is this true?
    my coil is 30 turn of 0.35 with 3.4 ohm resistant then i paralel with 9ohm resistant
    for 3 ohm coil
    can you guide me please ?
    Bad idea.
    You don't have a three ohm coil. What you have described is a 9Ω damping resistor across your coil and the 680Ω.
    So, you now have a 9Ω || 680Ω =~ 8.88Ω. That is equivalent to having a 8.88Ω damping resistor, as I understand what you described.

    By the way, when you tell us you have "x" many turns of "y" wire, you may have well have told us nothing, because you have left out the equally important (for the purpose of calculating coil inductance) coil diameter.
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • thanks porkluvr
      can you help me to made a good coil please ?
      i want change inside resistant of irf740 to 1k & other side to 680 ohm you say me
      my coil is 30 turn of 0.35 wire in 19 cm ring with 4.6 ohm
      my wire connect coil to box have 2.2 ohm
      when i connect coil to wire i have 5.1 ohm
      what i must doing? thank you

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Speedy_G View Post
        Hi Saromines Ramiel

        I think that the best person to answer your query would be one of your own compatriots, namely Ram, who also resides in the Phillipines where you are. He is the Guru in programming PICs and Atmegas. I have no experience with PIC programmer K150 and I have only used Pickit2 which worked flawlessly for me. I can only reiterate my advice given to members of the Thunting forum (as I mentioned in my previous post in this forum) that generally the problem that you have discovered, namely, quote: "...when i turn on the LCD there are many characters running on top." is really just the result of some incompatibility in triggering the 20 MHz crystal of the 18F252 which has to synchronize with the LCD frequency. In other words, with some of these LCD modules, the Delta Pulse Logo does not appear automatically and only garbled letters appear on the top row of LCD screen. This situation occurs when one uses the LCD models WH1602b (Winstar), DEM16216, GDM1602A or LMB162GDC (Topway) - I found that this situation was much improved without changing the software (hex file), but using a different LCD model, such as ACM1602S (American Zettler Inc), MC1602J-SYL (Everbouquet) or DV-20400 (Data Vision).

        Hope this goes some way to answering your question

        Ciao

        Speedy_G
        whether there are ways to work with lcd models WH1602b (Winstar) ? With a change on-board or ?

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Orbit View Post
          whether there are ways to work with lcd models WH1602b (Winstar) ? With a change on-board or ?
          Hi Orbit

          You are essentially asking the same question that I have posted on the Thunting forum just over two months ago. The question is whether it is possible to rectify the problem experienced by many experimenters/DIY'ers out there who have built the Delta Pulse 2 and obtained garbled "running" characters on the top row of their LCD. In other words, is there some type of modification that one could carry out on the PCB itself in order to rectify the problem experienced with those problematic LCD modules.
          I have established that it must be a synchronization (or incompatibility) problem between the 18F252 and the LCD frequencies. I did an experiment using the problematic HD44780-compatible 2x16 LCD modules from Topway (LMB162GDC). What I found was that when the 12V battery was used, those weird characters appeared on the top row of the LCD (nothing appears on the bottom row) as I previously mentioned. However, when a regulated 12v power supply was used instead, the Delta Pulse 2+ logo was displayed and the LCD worked OK! I found this very confusing, however, because in the latter case, it would only work properly if the switching on of the regulated power supply was subjected to a certain "timing" interval. In other words, I would have to switch ON, then switch OFF briefly, and switch it back ON again - then the LCD would display correctly.
          So what do you think would be the conclusion about what the actual problem might be? I guess it has something to do with "triggering" or "synchronization" between the 18F252 and the LCD controller chip. The technical jargon for the appearance of this problem, I believe, is related to: "the power-up initialization of HD44780-compatible LCD module".
          Well, as I have said before, the quickest solution to this problem is to use an LCD module obtained from a different manufacturer. But I can see the problem from the experimenter's/DIY'ers point of view, namely, that in certain countries (such as, perhaps, in Rumania and in my own country of South Africa), there is not a large selection of compatible LCD modules readily available, and so one would have to go through the trouble of ordering it through the internet. So I will agree with you that there must be someone out there with technical knowledge who could suggest some modification to the PCB that could allow the proper initialization of the LCD module at power-up.
          Let's hope someone helps us with this well-known problem.

          Obrigado (= thank you, in Portuguese)

          Ciao

          Speedy_G

          Comment


          • A common problem encountered with charactor LCDs is a difference
            in initialization times. Certain brand LCDs are faster than others.

            The way to over come this is to write a delay in the processor code. On power up the microcontroller puases for say a 1 second before
            sending any data to the LCD. This allows the LCD time to initialize it's registers. On certain brands this may only take 200th of a second on others much more. The flood of cheap china LCDs, I have noticed this problems more and more.

            For you project builder you have no way of changing the closed source code. Only the project developer can do this. So you need to request the developer modify the code with longer delay (1 second) at the begining of the program. Or keep swapping LCDs until you get a fast one.

            Add: To see if this is the problem add a seperate power switch to the LCD. Turn the power on to the LCD first , wait a couple of seconds
            and then power up the detector.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by alonejax View Post
              thanks porkluvr
              can you help me to made a good coil please ?
              i want change inside resistant of irf740 to 1k & other side to 680 ohm you say me
              my coil is 30 turn of 0.35 wire in 19 cm ring with 4.6 ohm
              my wire connect coil to box have 2.2 ohm
              when i connect coil to wire i have 5.1 ohm
              what i must doing? thank you
              http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...200#post170200

              Comment


              • Originally posted by alonejax View Post
                thanks porkluvr
                can you help me to made a good coil please ?
                i want change inside resistant of irf740 to 1k & other side to 680 ohm you say me
                my coil is 30 turn of 0.35 wire in 19 cm ring with 4.6 ohm
                my wire connect coil to box have 2.2 ohm
                when i connect coil to wire i have 5.1 ohm
                what i must doing? thank you
                You will be better off if you do not use enamel wire, (also magnet wire, lacquered wire)... it might go by different names, but all are similar.

                Enamel insulation is thin; too thin make the best coil because interwinding capacitance will be higher than with PVC or Teflon insulated wire. 0.35mm diameter is a good choice because it is not too thick. The Deltapulse can draw excessive current if the coil wire is too thick.

                Try to make sure your wire has [PVC or Teflon] insulation rated for 600V.

                For your 2.2 ohm resistor between the coil and IRF740, use a 1W resistor, otherwise when you turn pulsewidth and PPS up high, the resistor may get too hot.

                I still say you need 430 ohm damping resistor for best result, but that is only a guess because you need to use either trial and error (experimenting by using different resistor values), or else use a good oscilloscope, to make that determination with any certainty.

                Comment


                • Thank you ! Speedy_G - exactly what this is about primarily from China floods even integrated circuits I have to buy a larger amount I'd found a few pieces that work of 20 lf 357 only one was correct ! Thank you Altra -I will try your suggestions to apply ! about turning on the LCD before about 1 second Do you mean specifically lcd be switched on without CPU 18F252 ?After a second processor to the only ? talk about Winster WH1602b that the real problem , best time !

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Orbit View Post
                    Thank you Altra -I will try your suggestions to apply ! about turning on the LCD before about 1 second Do you mean specifically lcd be switched on without CPU 18F252 ?After a second processor to the only ? talk about Winster WH1602b that the real problem , best time !
                    Yes turn the LCD on first. I am not sure what the state of the PIC18F252 output pins is when powered off. You may need to add 10K pulldown or up resistors to the LCD I/O? Another thought is noise from the power supply to the LCD. Try adding an electrolytic capacitor right to the LCD module on the +5volt input.

                    Comment


                    • Thank you Altra ! I will try and I will write what happens !!

                      Comment


                      • hi kt315
                        thank you
                        can you say me how i can use from pr1-9 pin please?

                        Comment


                        • special thanks from my friend porkluvr
                          finaly i make delta puls
                          it sence 21k gold coin 1 gram 13 millimeters diameter in 10 cm
                          can i fix to beter my delta?
                          how i can use pr1-9 pin in delta board?

                          Comment


                          • hi orbit
                            can you help me for original hex file for delta puls digital3?
                            thanke you

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by alonejax View Post
                              special thanks from my friend porkluvr
                              finaly i make delta puls
                              it sence 21k gold coin 1 gram 13 millimeters diameter in 10 cm
                              can i fix to beter my delta?
                              how i can use pr1-9 pin in delta board?
                              That looks like progress, although I can't tell you how it compares with the best capability of Deltapulse.

                              Originally posted by alonejax View Post
                              how i can use pr1-9 pin in delta board?
                              I'm sorry but I do not understand what you mean. "PR1" I understand, but I don't understand the meaning of "PR1-9". Please explain.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by alonejax View Post
                                hi kt315
                                thank you
                                can you say me how i can use from pr1-9 pin please?
                                hi, where you found or see pr1-9 pin? point me on the schematic.
                                Attached Files

                                Comment

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