'KROT2-XM' (mole), new project Xmega32

[smity]

Try to write clearly. Need to connect the transmitter coil so ... "Hot End" through the resonant capacitor and resistor to my 8-foot MSR34119, "cold end" to the ground "minus" ... Now you understand?

[Wiltran]

TX Coil

Yes thank you.

[Geo]

Santa Claus......

Do you believe in Santa Claus;;; I from today ... Yes !!.... Because he brought me a pcb from Krop full mounted.
I supply it but the screen does not light up. Replaced it with another (5V) but again did not work. I did a test and found a line who was cut. I soldered and it worked fine. Tomorrow maybe try to connect a coil and to play with menu......

Ohhh i forgot to tell Santa Claus (WM6) that he is full of P.M so i can't send him my wishes......

[Tepco]

Finally I’m in my “office” too, and hopefully will have bit more time for all this. I will make few posts, , about Krot 1 and 2, I made both, programmer etc, wit photos, from PCB making to finished units. Also to clarify that balanced coil connection. Next year will start with Russian detectors, I find one unpopulated PCB for CHANCE PI, and all parts for QUASAR (DIP version), so finally back to work.

[Ropcsika]

Hi ANDREW K2
I don't understand how can i adjust the zero adc? The coils disconnected?

[Tepco]

KROT(s) in the making

This posts may be interesting for someone. This build is absolutely “worst case scenario” from PCB making to finished boards: Usually I make proper Linotronic film for PCBs, but this time it is printed on cheapest possible 50$ laser printer with refilled cartridge. Usually my friend does PCB production (using hand made but still relatively decent equipment) for prototypes, this time I made them myself. With some bathroom witchcraft chemistry, end result is relatively good.

[Tepco]

Now, I really hate this part. Soon everything will be in BGA package, making any hand assembly nearly impossible. Actually, soldering this SMD package is not problematic at all, if you have proper tools, good soldering iron with good tip, right type of flux and tin etc. But using cheap hobby tools can be problematic, with good chance to ruin PCB and most probably the chip.

[Tepco]

Programmer

One more useful tool, programmer. To be clear, this is pure waste of time, for something like 20$ you can buy working factory made unit with same or more functionality, but if you are DIY-hard, it works, assembled and programmed according to original Russian website instructions. I programmed my KROT chip earlier, using factory made programmer, built this one for other purposes. After all, if I have to make boards, install small chips etc, one more won't be a problem. I had two problems during assembly, first one, broken data line from USB (not having SMD connector for mini USB, I used standard one, with one pin broken) Interestingly, computer recognized it, but communication failed, I expected this wont work at all. Another problem was incorrectly installed SMD resistor, shorting one PDI line to GND, so programmer was unable to actually program anything. All this fixed in matter of minutes using scope, everything tested and 100% working.

[Tepco]

As I mentioned, “worst case scenario” build, almost all parts, except maybe resistors, removed from old boards from my junkbox, this is prototype, who care how it looks like. Not the best hardware ever made, but at least working one. Current status of improvisation: I don't have MCP601, so instead i'm using 1\2 of MCP602 in socket, not quite aesthetic solution, but works, also LDO is small SMD type, tends to overheat, i'm powering board mostly from 3.3V PSU directly. And most important, proper coil. I tested this with some improvised coils, but first thing to do is to made proper coil to original specifications. I checked status of all “resources”, wire, epoxy etc so soon I can test this with normal coil.

[Tepco]

And naturally, my favorite, KROT1, probably best DIY design ever, up and running. Now i'm using some older version software, but have few spare chips around, will program them to compare different versions. Also to compare KROT1 and KROT2 directly, using same coil. Earlier I posted PCB file for this detector (bit modified), I have to add few comments. PCB and modification is good, but pay attention to display type. Now i'm using Winstar display (available from mikroe.com), cheap and very good one but PCB is designed for some old obsolete type I used earlier, actually removed from some old equipment, so: Contrast adjusting resistor must go to GND, on PCB connected to +5V for old display, and remove connections from 4 unused data lines on display to GND. Usually this is not important for most displays, some types actually wont work without this, but Winstar wont work with these lines connected to GND, so just cut them off.

[ANDREW K2]

Configuring a virtual ADC Zero mode "Zero_Adc"
1. Turning off the spool , and better " for clarity " or shorting RX (s) to remove the zero current TX.
2 . We see that in the regime "Coil bl" A = 0 !
3 . Turn mode "Zero_Adc" automatic search by pressing "0".
4 . Wait .. Indications Urx should be from 0 to ~50 mV. ( After "auto" close to zero adjust manually)
5 . If you can not watch the voltage on the 44 foot " Hmegi " it should be about 1.6V
Voltage at about 40 foot 3,3 V.
6. If the voltage is adequate, and zero is not set to change the ratio R7/R8.
7. After successful setup forget about this mode forever and do not touch it !

[Geo]

Hi Andrew.
I have a coil from whites xlt without capacitors inside it. Is it better to tune the Rx coil at 1... 1,5 Khz lower that Tx???
For example Tx at 8.5Khz and Rx at 7Khz???? or both at 8.5 khz.....

Happy new year

[Ropcsika]

Configuring a virtual ADC Zero mode "Zero_Adc"
1. Turning off the spool , and better " for clarity " or shorting RX (s) to remove the zero current TX.
2 . We see that in the regime "Coil bl" A = 0 !
3 . Turn mode "Zero_Adc" automatic search by pressing "0".
4 . Wait .. Indications Urx should be from 0 to ~50 mV. ( After "auto" close to zero adjust manually)
5 . If you can not watch the voltage on the 44 foot " Hmegi " it should be about 1.6V
Voltage at about 40 foot 3,3 V.
6. If the voltage is adequate, and zero is not set to change the ratio R7/R8.
7. After successful setup forget about this mode forever and do not touch it !

Ok thanx

[WM6]

Do you believe in Santa Claus;;; I from today ... Yes !!.... Because he brought me a pcb from Krop full mounted.
I supply it but the screen does not light up. Replaced it with another (5V) but again did not work. I did a test and found a line who was cut. I soldered and it worked fine. Tomorrow maybe try to connect a coil and to play with menu......

Ohhh i forgot to tell Santa Claus (WM6) that he is full of P.M so i can't send him my wishes......

Hi Geo

Great to hear that you fixed LCD problem with your KROT-2 and that it works.

Yes copper lines at PCB Nr.: 3 are very thin and sensitive, so very high probability to be somewhere broken.

Congratulations!

I am from my lab for a week, but after New Years holidays will be back and make one new coil using copper wire and new KROT-2 board of course.

Full PM mailbox now solved.

[WM6]

This posts may be interesting for someone. This build is absolutely “worst case scenario” from PCB making to finished boards: Usually I make proper Linotronic film for PCBs, but this time it is printed on cheapest possible 50$ laser printer with refilled cartridge. Usually my friend does PCB production (using hand made but still relatively decent equipment) for prototypes, this time I made them myself. With some bathroom witchcraft chemistry, end result is relatively good.

Hi Tepco

You make very nice DIP version of KROT-2 PCB and finished board too.

Awaiting for your further reports on KROT-1 and KROT-2 results and comparisons.