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White's 5900 Di PRO SL project

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  • White's 5900 Di PRO SL project

    Greeting's y'all.

    I have the detector from my father's estate. I had used it many years ago when I was prospecting. I hadn't seen it in almost 20 years. When we received it last month, I put batteries in it to give it a try again, and 'nothing'. I'd like to get it going again. Primarily for sentimental's sake, though it can be the start of something new for me and My Lady.

    I'd really appreciate a schematic of this circuit. I had originally joined another 'detector' forum and they are friendly and have a lot of 'using' information, but it was suggested I look here on this forum for these specific schematics.

    So here I am, and I've been trying to search, but I'm not the luckiest computerific person so I'm simply announcing who I am, what I'm looking for, and what my goal is.

    If anyone would be willing to point me in a fruitful direction it'd be most appreciated.

    Blessings All, and Merry Christmas!

    Sean

  • #2
    Here's the schematic ->
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      THANK YOU, seriously, ,,, Thank You very much.

      Hugely appreciated. Now I can go on a scavenger-hunt through the circuit-boards to release the magic smoke that is gumming up the works!

      Very happy here, let's see how things progress!

      Comment


      • #4
        Here are some waveforms to help with troubleshooting. Even though it says 6000DI/Pro most should be the same as the 5900. The 5900 lacks AutoTrac so ignore the Auto GEB plot.

        Attached Files

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        • #5
          Maybe a better schematic:

          5900 Di Pro SL_sch.zip

          Comment


          • #6
            And a MERRY CHRISTMAS to you all. I'm not saying I'm going to be successful, but I will say that if I fail, the fault is my own.

            It's going to take some time for me to do this, especially with all the festivities and such, but I'll chime back in here with some pic's and progress once in a while. If anyone's interested.
            Last edited by Sean the Nailer; 12-23-2023, 08:27 PM. Reason: forgot to add...

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            • #7
              If you give more info on what's wrong, maybe we can help guide you. If you put in fresh batteries and you get no response at all on power-up, then I would start with the battery contact prongs inside the case. Often they get pushed in a little too far and don't make good contact. Also check the battery tray springs, make sure there is no oxidation.

              Another common problem is that the rotary switches go bad. Unfortunately there is no replacing those, they are long ago obsolete. If you rule out the battery, try spraying some contact cleaner into the switches.

              Comment


              • #8
                All good information, Carl. And yes, that is my 'beginning'.

                Communication between myself and my father was 'strained' at-best during the past few decades. So I have no idea when or how this unit 'stopped working'. It is in practically pristine shape with no visual damage or issues on the outside.

                My Lady and I picked up 4 fresh batteries, put them in the box (no visual corrosion) inserted it into the detector body, then turned the switch on. Nothing. Nowhere. I double-checked that the box was in the right way, and I have to say it was. I moved/worked each knob and again, nothing. Even with each knob on the 'triangle' position to start.

                Because of all the different projects going on getting prepared for Christmas and whatnot, I wasn't about to start taking this apart without A) a basis of what I'm looking for, and B) the SPACE to work on it AND leave it for a bit in a disassembled manner without parts/pieces getting lost, and C) the time to actually focus on it. It is mostly a pride/remembrance project for me, and My Lady is looking forward to playing with it and going on treasure hunts with it once completed.

                I started researching and came across a few y/t videos of an alleged 'common problem' with these,,, having to do with an on-board fuse between two caps, or something like that.

                Bear with me, as I have short-term memory issues given to me as a consolation prize from a MV accident some years ago. That would be reason D) why I don't start something until I can prioritize it, because I forget about things and well... y'all can imagine how that can turn out.

                Back to the vid's, the guy had a schematic, and repeated a number of times that it was a 'common problem' for this, which made it SEEM simple and straightforward but I'm not even going to take a screwdriver to this box until I have actual information of what actually should be there and such.

                I can add pic's, but I'm figuring everyone has seen what they look like. Mine HASN'T been disassembled/uncovered yet, so I will be once I get to that point. Which should be soon now, due to these drawings here and "the big day" here in 2 days. Then things should begin to settle down, right?

                Your comment about the 'rotary switches' being obsolete sounds ominous. Are you saying that there aren't even 'work-a-rounds' for them, if they fail?

                Blessings all,

                Sean

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Sean the Nailer View Post
                  Your comment about the 'rotary switches' being obsolete sounds ominous. Are you saying that there aren't even 'work-a-rounds' for them, if they fail?
                  Correct, they are a 4-pole multi-throw rotary-slider switch and no one makes anything like that any more. You would have to rig up a different switch with some kind adapter board to replace it, and it would not be easy.

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