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COIN HAWK PROTEL SCHEMATIC

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  • #46
    No no no ,,,dont convert to emf,,it's the best to find snagit 8 and instal him,,,then when you gou to fabrication output final indead your printer chose snagit 8 and go to print ,,then snagit will open file and you just save file in pdf...

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    • #47
      OK OK OK ,,,

      I DO this.

      download snagIT 8.1.0 from internet and install.

      it work very good.

      thank .

      but file is very big .see zip .for small PCB format(180KB with all layer) make big PDF format (330KB for one layer) . can miniaturize?

      and if i print this PDF for make PCB ,is this real size?
      Attached Files

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      • #48
        Sorry!


        Sorry to say, but this project lack of accuracy....Many mistakes in schematic...I made 2 diferent pcb's....done many checks....nothing!
        Not working, not workable...What to say?
        Sean you should start all over again...
        I give up of this for good...i am sorry!
        I had such a good will to do this, i need really good coinshooter for myself...but this schematic is unusable....
        regards

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        • #49
          Originally posted by sisco View Post
          OK OK OK ,,,

          I DO this.

          download snagIT 8.1.0 from internet and install.

          it work very good.

          thank .

          but file is very big .see zip .for small PCB format(180KB with all layer) make big PDF format (330KB for one layer) . can miniaturize?

          and if i print this PDF for make PCB ,is this real size?
          When you open file in pdf clik on snapshot tool in toolbar and then mark pcb by borders,,after that you need a corel photo paint,,,when you open corel p.p. clik on new from clipboard ,,then save the file,,,after that open corel draw and import your file ,,and in corel draw you can to determine dimension of board ,,,if you want to know real dimension open DXP and click R (on your keyboard ) and then to board information..

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          • #50
            SISCO,
            Please send BOM for your Coin Hawk PCB, or Protel 99 schematic. This pcb look very good!

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            • #51
              LTC1044

              Originally posted by ivconic View Post

              Only one step left,foe me to turn ON CoinHawk and see how it's perform...
              I can not find LTC1044 in any near shop...So i done some research and clued that it can be replaced with 7660, pin to pin!
              Is there something i should know before try that?
              Any hints?
              regards!
              Hello from France,
              You can buy the LTC1044 at Selectronic :
              IS7660DJ=ICL7660 CPA=LTC1044-8
              http://www.selectronic.fr/article.as...r=70.3877-9999
              If you find more electronic components, I have very more in stock at low price... and in a few month, I open a web shop : www.electroniquemicroservices.com (in english - Delivery to Wordwide)
              Best regards from france !

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              • #52
                Hi All, OK I will try to redraw it with the errors taken out in Protel Format, May take a while.

                Sorry for the problems I have caused those who tried to build this. NVM it was a first attempt and a failure **sigh**

                I will try harder and maybe drink less beer when I do designs in future!!

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                • #53
                  Hi everybody,

                  What news about Coin Hawk ?

                  NE5534 is a great chip.

                  What is the origin of this MD ?

                  I think, it's very interesting schematic (just a question about 4016 series, they appear to be SPDT and can be replaced with a CD4053 !)

                  Best regards

                  (sorry for my bad english)

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                  • #54
                    Hi Sean Goddard
                    About coin hawk, please explain your latest experiments with it .
                    Best regards.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Hi Aft,

                      I have not done anything with this design for a long time.

                      It was INTENDED as a reference design for people to test and improve. I made no claims it would work as it was my first attempt at a VLF design.

                      I have still not got my new workshop/lab set up so I have no test equipment to do anything. Sorry I can't help.

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                      • #56
                        Hi Sean Goddard
                        Thank you, I decide manufacturing vlf detector
                        Which working at high deep for mine, I don’t have commercial
                        Target. At the first anker ss60, (please see anker s60 .....thread If interest for you,)
                        KT 315 believe THUNDER 3 , also I study both circuit ,.
                        Are you have any suggestion ?
                        Best regards.

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                        • #57
                          Hi Sean Goddard
                          I have installed protel dxp altuim 6.9 (200 ,when open your file
                          Seeing seem this :
                          Also I have this massage;
                          Please resave coninhawk PCB file inPCB4.0 format and upload here .
                          With this method I am be able open it with protel 99se soft.
                          Thank you .
                          Attached Files

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                          • #58
                            AH, ERM...YES!! I've just figured out what is causing the beep..beep all the time, too much drive to the zero crossing detectors (DISC AND GEB) or maybe none at all.

                            If you look at the INPUTS to the two LM393N's then you should see a 5V pk-pk SINE wave. Anything more will cause "foldback" and lead to this problem so you will have to adjust the potential divider to decrease the signal level at these points.

                            When I boost the Tx on a Silver Sabre, I have seen this problem a few times and never worked out what it is. Well, NOW I have!!
                            Also NO drive can also cause this problem. so check that the 4016 is getting PURE (?!?) square waves. Also, the reason I used 4016 is the RDSon of the FET's. The 4053 is much higher, but you can use them if you like. I just thought it would give better signal transfer.

                            The low noise method I used is an op-amp with a switchable output, I feed Rx signal into the amp input and the switching signal into the output control. Doing it this way results in a MUCH cleaner output (Tesoso machines glitch like a bit-ch on the demod output) and this means you can run the sensitivity a little "hotter". OR you can use the demodulators (Flindulators as they are known) out of the PE Magnum by Andy Flind, this system is SUPERBLY quiet and can run at silly gain level with little or no falsing.

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