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Bounty Hunter Red Barren 7 schematic

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  • #16
    Red Baron 7 power points

    Hello to all in the thread I'm glad to find a subject similar to what I'm working on at the moment where do the original power points connect to from the battery holders to the circuit board.Alimo88 I have the same problem or if you gave up I have yours.Or maybe just a coincidence if not.Looks like thats why a lot of red barons a sold not working,because of the twin battery packs one for the audio and the other for circuit,people replace them when they crack on the top.But because they are hard to find with the clips(original ones) not the wires people get confuse and wire snap-on clips to the wires wrong.Have I think about it .In the snap on from the board the female is positive and the male is negative.So if you put a snap-on in the battery holder to join the circuit one and follow the colors red and black again you will have female positive male negative that means you can not join them because it's the wrong polarity.But with the excitement people make the simple mistake.The easy way if you can't get the original battery holders is to disregard the snap-on clips and put a one way connector plug and while you are there put a fuse holder.If that was done there would be more Red barons around working.There is more old bounty hunter's like the discriminator-840 or raider,outlaw and so on because they use two nine volt batteries,so there is no battery holders and no problems with battery holders.So once I make sure I get the original power points like Alimo88 was asking for I can started to find out if they done any damage and start replacing.I think thanks to the great help from homefire I will solve and repair this famous old classic .Hope this has help someone before giving up.All the best to everyone on the holiday season cheers.
    Last edited by conan; 12-01-2010, 07:26 PM. Reason: To add more

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    • #17
      Hello homefire can you copy and post it like you did on the 29-3-2008 or just look at the diagram and tell me where the points from power A- and power B- feed or join in the circuit board.I have a few ideas but want to make sure.Thanks

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      • #18
        Hello Alimo88 did you get the power points right or found some diagrams or schematics or pics from somewhere.thanks

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        • #19
          Red Baron 7 power points

          Hello this pic posted by Gold dredger to help with a Garrett Ads Deepseeker not long ago. Is what I need of a Red Baron 7 and also Alimo88 if he still has it,since he was asking for the same.
          Attached Files

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          • #20
            Originally posted by conan View Post
            Hello this pic posted by Gold dredger to help with a Garrett Ads Deepseeker not long ago. Is what I need of a Red Baron 7 and also Alimo88 if he still has it,since he was asking for the same.
            I had one of the newer 220 select and it used a zener diode and pass transistor for the regulator and an op amp with a voltage divider for the zero volts, the zener diode was fried.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by homefire View Post
              What one do you have?

              A friend down yonder gave me a schematic for it not long ago.

              If you want it I have to Mail it to you.

              I have no way to fax with reasable results or scan it.

              I can try if you want!

              It's a sorry coppy at best!

              It's complete but of copy of the copy Quality!


              A photo copy would work.

              I need to mail it .

              Hello Homefire is the diagram for the Red Baron the same in the power connections as the Bounty Hunter 840-can you look and post the reply.I'm willing to pay you for a copy by mail.Thanks
              Attached Files

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              • #22
                PM your address and I will send you the one I have.

                I have no need for it any more.

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                • #23
                  RED BARON 7 POWER POINTS

                  While I'm waiting on some original wiring of the power points maybe my own pics will help someone.First battery holder -one positive to the (off) switch side follow by the original red wire on the (on) side of the switch and negative to the neutral ground in the board.Second battery holder -one negative to the (off) side of the switch follow by the original purple wire at the (on) side of the switch and positive to the neutral ground where the negative from the First battery pack connects to in the board.This is how the older model Bounty Hunter 840 Discriminator has the power points with two nine volt batteries connected to as seen in the diagram above in the other post.This pics are samples of what someone can do with the original twin pack Red Baron model with original power leads and wiring.Mine is a most probably the right way,since the R.B 840 has similar twin packs one for audio and one for circuit.But it would be nice to see the original.At the moment due to previous people mounting and connecting the battery holders wrong in mine I have found two I.C'S no good one OP-Amplifier LM358N there are six in total. And one MP4196P there are three in total and at the moment waiting on the MP4196P a Balance Modulator.Also there is a metal round (8pin) CA3140 OP-Amplifier it tested O.K but I had a spare so I replaced it.At least there are no transistors out of the 18 that it has including one Darlington and no diodes out of the 11 that it has including two zener.If anybody it's not sure of the numbers of the transistors I have all the numbers on mine.Hope this will help someone or maybe someone comes forward with the original pics.Even if when I get the part and connect the power and find it's right and works the Original is the best.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #24
                    Red Baron Diagram or Copy

                    Originally posted by homefire View Post
                    PM your address and I will send you the one I have.

                    I have no need for it any more.

                    Hello Homefire did you mail the diagram ? I'm looking in the mail box all the time,but it's taking a long time.Thanks

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                    • #25
                      Sorry to say No! Will do this week ..

                      Again sorry but things have been tweeked around here that past few weeks.


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                      • #26
                        Sorry but looking at my post because it was dark the number on the I.C was put wrong.Instead of MP4196P the right number is MC1496P

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                        • #27
                          Conan, what detector is this a picture of??

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                          • #28
                            Hello turtlebowl,Regarding what picture you are asking,because there are a few.I will guess that you are asking about the last one.That is a pic of my Bounty Hunter Red Baron 7 with the single board mount.With the array of issues,due to power connections from a previous owner that gave up on it.

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                            • #29
                              Via PM from Conan

                              Hello and thanks for your time and help.Yes I got the diagrams early this month.I guess with all the flooding disasters we had here.The postal service for overseas mail was a little slow.After studying the diagrams even do it was the three board model and not the single large board later model that mine has.All the components looked to be the same,the only difference is the amount of wiring the three board model has,no wonder they called it the rats nest.Now that I know the board like the back of my hand,and together with all the other research from people sending me pics.There was one that had exactly the same one large board model and he was kind enough to send me the pic of the wiring to the board from the batteries It was the best picture my eyes could ever see.I can confirmed 100 percent that my guess was right in the pic that I posted with the temporary wires in my board.To cut a very long story short after connecting all the wires back on the board and getting stuck on it last weekend.Replacing first the two I.C'S that I already checked before to be no good.One LM358N OMP and one MC1496P Modulator/Demodulator.The power voltage check points in the schematics,did not respond and after some drinks and smoke.There where some mystery components found.One the switch contact points no good,two? the resistance in the volume pot 500 ohms which is part of the same component with the switch was giving infinite resistance once I pulled it out.So after cleaning and taking apart the pot and figuring out what I could do(other than trying to look for one)nearly a miracle to find a 500 ohm linear pot with DPST dual contact switch.I took apart another pot with 500 ohms resistance and with some luck putting together some parts from one and the other I got the switch working and the mystery resistance working too.Put it together back in the board.Turned it on and music to my ears the meter was responding the battery A-and B checked good and the threshold was responding to adjustment.TR was detecting good with discrimination control also.But guess what SPD was not great and All metal hardly pick up at one inch with very low volume. I was just about smashing it against the wall.When after a few more drinks and smoke to relax the nerves.I said one more check.All I.C'S good,all transistors and diodes good .Replaced a few 100uf capacitors for quicker response,but checking some voltages around the MC1496P that was no good and replaced.Thanks to your diagrams,it was not checking out around some resistors and the small 500 ohms blue trim pot.Resistors is very rare with the small voltage involved to give up,so I got the magnifying eye glass and testing the resistors and the trim pot.Guess what one of the outside legs in the trim pot was broken? I could not believe it how?And because it's a mystery the hands that have tried and gave up on it before me(No wonder and don't blame them).I just looked in my spare parts and found one.Replaced it checked the voltage that the schematics give you at that point with a little trim and it checked good.Now could this be it put it on All metal and it was the best sound of my life the threshold was responding the meter was responding and best of all the detecting now was working at good depths with all the items I have Coins.Gold and silver rings and nails and junk metals,from six inches to 12 inches for a one dollar silver size coin.And best of all a small half gram alluvial nugget at two inches,some detectors can't pick up that small.SPD and discrimination also was working good.So thanks to you and others for the help one way or another the Red Baron 7 is back ready to work again.With some improvements I might say,since it has like in the diagram shows a VSR control pot that gives you the ability to control the response speed,so you hardly have to move the coil or up to no movement at all (that's were it picks up the small less than a gram nuggets)Also found in the older Bounty Hunter Raider model.Homefire you have to let me know your delivery address,so I can send you a souvenir from down under.Are you able to post this in the R.B thread so I don't have to write all this again.I will be posting the final pics from the people that have taking pics of the wiring contact points.Cheers Miguel

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                              • #30
                                Bounty Hunter Red Baron 7 IS BACK

                                Thanks homefire for posting my message because I'm pretty new with the forum I had to write a couple of times the message I send to you I did not know if it was going through to you.Any how to all you fans of the Red Baron 7 that have follow this thread.I guess patience always pays.(And a few drinks along the way)With all the research and pics and diagrams( Also Thank you to the original person that took the trouble to make the schematics back who knows when ago).He was spot on minus a few figures on some components. I could fixed any Red Baron 7 single board and maybe the three board model two.Here are the last pics of the three board model showing the connections from the battery holders(notice the nightmare of wires in the three board model).And the single board pic of some nice kind person showing the Red positive to the switch off side of the switch follow by the Red at the on side and negative to the outside track on the board from one battery pack.And the other pack Negative to the of side of the switch follow by the purple wire at the on side of the switch and Positive Red wire at the neutral ground in the outside track on the board where the Negative from the First pack is solder too.And last my board with all the wires taking out except the wires from the battery snap on that I had in mind how it should go, my guess before the original pic was send to me.Now I guess I'll get bored with no more to do.I'll have to ask my friend to go for a metal detecting trip after the floods we had here I guess is the best time to go over the creeks and locations where the gold might have been washed down again.Cheers to all and remember Patience.
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