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Compass Coin Scanner Pro Schematic
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I have a question....
Does anyone have the ability to make up a PCB from this factory schematic? I would like to build a board, for experimentation. I have a Scanner coil, so it would be useful for experimentation.
The only problem would be tuneing the detector board in, to match up and work with the factory coil. Has anyone tried to build it yet? Any suggestions on tuneing in the board?
Melbeta
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How to Screw Compass Electronics
I could but I would have to enter it into a capture package first.
As Compass went bust a second time, the thieves who owned it owed me $10k in MY book that gives me the right to some payback. I'll work on this over the next month or so and see how far I get. ANYTHING I post here will be FREE for anyone to use commercially or otherwise!
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Schematic
Has anyone else noticed several discrepancies between the schematic and a CS Pro or Pro II actual circuit board? It appears the schematic was an early design even thou the schematic is dated 1-5-90 and the circuit board has a date of 3-24-90.
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There are always updates....
Originally posted by ron_c View PostHas anyone else noticed several discrepancies between the schematic and a CS Pro or Pro II actual circuit board? It appears the schematic was an early design even thou the schematic is dated 1-5-90 and the circuit board has a date of 3-24-90.
Melbeta
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I think that R7 should be connected to the other side of R6. I owned one of these detectors and it did not work well. A quarter would only air test at 6". I think there were a bunch sold that had problems and the BDS were probably wrong. The 1993 Bounty Hunter Select 220 that I own is a very similar variation of this design and it works great.
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Originally posted by Melbeta View PostFrom my knowledge of Compass, there are always updates and revisions, the original schematic was the original one. Then circuit problems and errors are found, thus one has to revise the schematic using the original schematic. That is why they put board dates on the boards.
Melbeta
Originally posted by DavidB View PostI think that R7 should be connected to the other side of R6. I owned one of these detectors and it did not work well. A quarter would only air test at 6". I think there were a bunch sold that had problems and the BDS were probably wrong. The 1993 Bounty Hunter Select 220 that I own is a very similar variation of this design and it works great.
I have been trying to trace all connections, but some connections run under some of the components and it's hard to tell which way they run or what they connect to, plus the old coating has turned amber color and is hard to remove to check things. I'm trying to find a non working circuit board for the Coin Scanner Pro or the Pro II.
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I just sold my Bounty Hunter Big Bud Pro 220 Select...
Originally posted by ron_c View PostThat was the point I was trying to make, changes, errors and the finished design is somewhat different than the original design and it appears the changes weren't made to the original schematic.
On the early Coin Scanners they would only get around 5 - 6" until Keith Wills started making a depth mod and then later the factory started making the depth mods themselves.
I have been trying to trace all connections, but some connections run under some of the components and it's hard to tell which way they run or what they connect to, plus the old coating has turned amber color and is hard to remove to check things. I'm trying to find a non working circuit board for the Coin Scanner Pro or the Pro II.
George Payne was involved with all but the 220 Select. The 220 Select used George Payne's patents technology though.
Merc posted some very good high resolution photos of the top and trace side of the Big Bud Pro SE unit in this forum in case you want to look at the top and trace side of it, to see what it does... I believe the 220 Select was a First Texas Mfg clone of the old Teknetics/BountyHunter Big Bud Pro SE unit.
Melbeta
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