Surf PI Pro

[porkluvr]

Make sure the LM358 is not installed backwards.

edit: Never mind the 358 orientation, but look at this:

If you have +5V at NE5534 pin-7, you should also see +5V at LM358 pin-8. They're supposed to be connected.
You must be able to measure very low resistance between those two pins, if not then you may have an open trace or bad solder.

Oh, yes I rounded 4.97 up to a 5 (I like things simple).

[Carl-NC]

I don't know, voltages look reasonable so far.

[Carl-NC]

Oops, yes, LM358 pin-8 should be +5V.

[porkluvr]

That was probably just a typographical error. Armchair troubleshooting could never be that easy.

[Mohamed Ghitas]

another progress
now when you told me that pin 8 in LM385 should be like pin7 in NE5534 i checked it and i found that i didnt connect the wire under 4066 ic that should connect between pin 7 in NE5534 and Pin 8 in LM385 and i did but it still not working but the new is when i plug the power i here very short beeb
is it must be the right turns in the coil to work or any turns close to the right no. of turns ??

notes :
i have electrolyte cap that should be ceramics the 1u and i put -ve pin headed to the sens pot

[Mohamed Ghitas]

shall i change R2 two Trimmer ??

i also found that i have put R17 3.3K and i replaced it with 10k as it required

iam replacing MPSA13 with KSP13 they have the same data sheet is it okay ?

[Mohamed Ghitas]

another progress
i have inverse the polarity of electrolyte c7 and it gives long beeeeeb even when the coil is unplugged
the pots starts to give output when i reduce tresh the beeb starts to reduce till it stops and the sens when i touch it the beeb works but when i change it the sound change

now iam going to exchange this electrolyte cap at C7 with ceramics one but 250V
and i will tell the results

[Mohamed Ghitas]

still same long beeeb stooped by turning the tresh pot and even while it reduced when i touch the sens pot it loud again
iam uploading video now

[porkluvr]

another progress
i have inverse the polarity of electrolyte c7 and it gives long beeeeeb even when the coil is unplugged
the pots starts to give output when i reduce tresh the beeb starts to reduce till it stops and the sens when i touch it the beeb works but when i change it the sound change

now iam going to exchange this electrolyte cap at C7 with ceramics one but 250V
and i will tell the results

Apparently, you have only enough electronics knowledge to be dangerous, but you do work really fast... which is even more dangerous.

If that C7 electrolytic capacitor was in there correctly, you cannot simply reverse its polarity without there being the danger of that capacitor EXPLODING after you apply power. I hope you will be wearing safety glasses if that happens because there may be no warning.

Also, where can you possibly find a ceramic capacitor that can adequately replace a 1000uF electrolytic?? Where?

You need to go to school and get a CLUE before you kill or maim somebody.

[Mohamed Ghitas]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1jpC...ature=youtu.be

at the middle of the video i stop and unplug the coil then continue

please help
Thanks in advance

[sdesic]

You posted a private video.
We can't see it

[WM6]

It is normal visible for me (or something changed in meantime?).

[Mohamed Ghitas]

Apparently, you have only enough electronics knowledge to be dangerous, but you do work really fast... which is even more dangerous.

If that C7 electrolytic capacitor was in there correctly, you cannot simply reverse its polarity without there being the danger of that capacitor EXPLODING after you apply power. I hope you will be wearing safety glasses if that happens because there may be no warning.

Also, where can you possibly find a ceramic capacitor that can adequately replace a 1000uF electrolytic?? Where?

You need to go to school and get a CLUE before you kill or maim somebody.

don't worry bro iam in the 4th class of engineering and before i do that i measured the area polarity already and i found that its safe to do that
and when i inverse it nothing happens
iam still a life
and the required cap is 1u not 1000u which means 1000 nf and thats easy to find everywhere i got it from old power supply
anyway thanks for the information

You posted a private video.
We can't see it

you can watch it now sorry my mistake

[Mohamed Ghitas]

guys i need your help

i got tired and sick i think iam going to restart every thing and made new one

[sdesic]

if you have oscilloscope you can post few graphs
it is hard to see any problem with PCB and MD from your video
and it is hard to fix such problem without use of oscilloscope... forum members told me this when I had problems

I always make two PCBs when doing new project, so I can desolder all components and reconnect them on clean PCB
you probably have short somewhere and can't find it