Garrett GTAx1000

[Qiaozhi]

I don't suppose anyone of you have a control panel for a Garrett GTAx1000 available?

While out on a dig, all the buttons failed except the on-off switch, and despite cleaning with fluid and resetting the connector several times, the Pinpoint and Last Mode membrane buttons still are non-functional. Looks like the panel is kaput.

The UK dealer doesn't have any spares, so I tried contacting Garrett in the U.S. (twice) by email, but didn't even get a reply.

If anyone has one, then please contact me with a price. My only other alternative would be to drill out the panel and replace them with real buttons.

[jap]

Hi Qiaozhi
what type(control panel) key like ? is it pcb board its 2 lines of copper to make switchs by contact graphite circle in plastic or Rubber of keybad.

This suggestion,,1-----Can test instead of Rubber of keybad.by any metal like Alalumnim paper to test each key and Does,,,,,,,,,
2- if not its true, the error in mainboard.
best time
j.

[Qiaozhi]

Hi Qiaozhi
what type(control panel) key like ? is it pcb board its 2 lines of copper to make switchs by contact graphite circle in plastic or Rubber of keybad.

This suggestion,,1-----Can test instead of Rubber of keybad.by any metal like Alalumnim paper to test each key and Does,,,,,,,,,
2- if not its true, the error in mainboard.
best time
j.

I'm fairly certain that the membrane keyboard is at fault. It's a sealed unit, so I cannot get to the contacts directly.
Here is an image of an Garrett Ultra 1000, which looks similar, except for the image of the man on the right.

[jap]

Hi Qiaozhi
Do you mean that the LCD and keyboard installed or riveted in the face casing.
But there is no way to get under the rubber for the work test keybad.
best time
j.

[Qiaozhi]

Hi Qiaozhi
Do you mean that the LCD and keyboard installed or riveted in the face casing.
But there is no way to get under the rubber for the work test keybad.
best time
j.

The unit can be disassembled, but the membrane keyboard is glued into the housing, and has a flexi-pcb as the connector.
Next time I take it apart I'll post some photos.

[Funfinder]

Hi Qiaozhi

if the connector of the touchpads flat-ribbon cable drawed some water,
it could have leaded to no longer working contacts.
If thats the case careful cleaning of the plugs inside for the ribbon cable would be the solution.
It's also the question if the LCD and the buttons use the same cable.

[Qiaozhi]

Hi Qiaozhi

if the connector of the touchpads flat-ribbon cable drawed some water,
it could have leaded to no longer working contacts.
If thats the case careful cleaning of the plugs inside for the ribbon cable would be the solution.
It's also the question if the LCD and the buttons use the same cable.

The plugs and sockets for the flexi connector have already been cleaned.
The LCD uses a different connector system.

I'm not really looking for advice on how to fix it, as the panel is almost certainly broken. However, I do intend to try and dismantle the keyboard asssembly itself later on in the year, so maybe there is a minute chance that it could be revived. What I'm looking for in the meantime is a new front panel asembly, either a spare unit, or a one taken from a non-working detector. Garrett have been totally unresponsive to my emails.

[Funfinder]

> the panel is almost certainly broken

I would open mine GTI 1500 to check how this stuff works but
I can't because of the special hang around the neck modification.

Well - if Garrett doesn't answer this is sad. Don't they have any special warranty, replacement, repair or customer services?
You may ask in other forums for this replacement part or a used GTA 1000. Or you can ask metal-detector shops or dealers.
If this MD is old they may no longer have any spare or parts - perhaps you can substitute it with a similar Garrett touchpanel.

If the LCD still works fine you can replace those 9 foil-buttons if you have time and motivation for this tinker-work.
While pressing one of the buttons you can check with the multimeter which contact has been closed.

Reminds me somehow of the resetbutton-mod for the Jeohunter.

First you need to know what exactly was broken. The thin copper-leads?
If you know the spot you may connect them again by soldering something over.

Usually this panel stuff consists of plastic that is glued together.
If you can get those foils apart you will find the culprit.
If it's the ribbon cable you should see it directly.

[jap]

Hi Qiaozhi
Under the rubber key like.
best time
j.

[Qiaozhi]

Eventually I found some time to examine this detector again. I removed the flexi-keypad, and fitted some tactile switches, which was an horrendously fiddly job. These are the same type used in laptops for the touchpad switches. I drilled a number of holes under the flexible plastic label and epoxied each switch in position, then soldered some 8-wire ribbon cable on the back of the PCB connector. After confirming which pairs of wires operated which function, I wired up the switches appropriately. The only problem I had was with the Select button. Unfortunately there was a mounting pillar in the way that prevented me drilling a hole for the tactile switch, and I was forced to mount it further over on the right-hand side of the panel.

Anyway, the bottom line is that it's all working again. The original plastic label is super-glued back in place, and there's enough flexibility to operate the switches underneath. In fact, apart from the misplaced Select button, it's much nicer to use due to the tactile feedback.

In case anyone finds this useful, here's the wiring information for the switches:

Ribbon Cable
1. Brown
2. Red
3. Orange
4. Yellow
5. Green
6. Blue
7. Purple
8. Grey

Switches
Power = 7,8
(-) = 3,5
Accept = 3,4
Reject = 3,6
Last Mode = 1,4
PinPoint = 2,5
Select = 2,4
Operate = 2,6
(+) = 1,5

[Merc]

I recently had to perform a repair to the keypad on my GTA1000. They are no longer available from Garrett. Here is a schematic of the buttons to go along with what Qiaozhi posted above.
Merc

[Merc]

I thought I would show my first attempt to repair my GTA1000 with a failed touchpad. I made a small PCB and mounted tactile switches to it. Workes great. Doesn't really look that great however. I have another idea and the parts are ordered. Should be in late this week. If it works, I'll post pics. If not, you'll never see it.

Merc

[Merc]

Here are a few pictures of my latest attempt to repair my GTA1000 keypad. I wanted to get some small tactile switches and mount them on a PCB. I didn't want to mount them on the PCB but more inside it to make the buttons as flat as possible. I will use adhesive to place the original faceplate decal back on top of the PCB with the tactile switches just sticking out enough to be actuated. I used .032"(.8mm) PCB material and found switches that were not much thicker. The swiches will be surface mounted reverse from normal. I hope to achieve good tactile feel and a factory appearance.

[Qiaozhi]

That's a nice solution to the problem.
Although my GTAx1000 still looks original from the outside, the Select button is not actually under the Select logo. It's over on the right-hand side. Apart from that, it works perfectly. Unfortunately I neglected to take any photos of the finished product.

[Merc]

Well, I got all the switches mounted and everything looked good. I decided to add a drop of superglue to keep the switches in place. Bad idea. glue seeped into at least 3 switches and now they dont work. It looks like I will get to do it all again. Joy.

Merc