Deephunter - THE Newest Hitec Treasure- & Cavity-Finder !

[Funfinder]

hi landman,
yesterday I was treasure-hunting - it was really cool.

1.)
Clearing the area is relative, it just makes things a bit easier.
The good thing with a nonmotion detector like the DeepHunter or Goldengate is:
The signal is as big as the target is.
This means you can hunt even right away inclusive ignoring all the smaller "short beeping" stuff.
I did this to find all the cannon-balls first. This method is better for your own motivation because
clearing the area first is like clearing a garden first from the unwanted plants.

But it also depends how much infested with junk is the area - if the junk is too big like larger
alu-foils, wire, drink-cans or empty gun-rounds this stuff really can mask whats directly below.

The Ace 250 will do well enough if there is no e-smog and if the soil isn't high mineralized - you can use the medium or larger coil.
With allmetal you will find both, iron and noble metal, but I would ignore all the small iron stuff and even the clearing
would be just some sort of removing the most interesting stuff first.

See treasure-hunting as "eat away first the yummy cream of the cherry-pie" - even if you have to remove junk from an area first.
If you start to remove meter by meter completly every little crap others will grab the real stuff.
btw. first you have to be shure that clearing of an area full of junk really pays off otherwise its just wasted time and energy.
Either you have 1st hand reliable info or you better clear first only smaller parts and check out if there is really deep stuff, too.
Usually there is not every 20cm junk so you just might be lucky and find a spot without clearing at all where the
detector shows you directly a long, soft and weak but very deep objects oscillator-curve or other signals for real deep stuff.


2.)
About the Andes mountains - you're lucky because I really have experience with mountain treasure hunting - the highest
place meanwhile where I've been with a detector was 2400m (around 7000 ft.) above sea. With the Garrett Euro Ace
because its very lightweight and a backup of 4x alkaline batteries, too.

It really depends how your treasure-hunt in the mountain works - I was already with the Jeohunter at very steep hills
an found cannon-balls there but this is pretty hard work and with the risk of geting hurt. Using the Blisstool at that
same region was much more easy, even when the depth was a little bit less.
For mountains the best compromise is a very lightweight 30cm coil and a very lightweight detector.
But if I would hunt at antique castle-ruins up on mountains I would use the DeepHunter with non-motion 45cm coil
because every inch of depth and every plus of mineralization-depth power counts at such locations.

The main important thing: you should have always one hand empty if the climbing area is not too dangerous.
If you fall you can hold on to something very fast and you don't have to throw away your detector or other stuff first.
And while it can be very exhausting hiking and sweeping alltogether its important being able using both arms
once in a while so the other one always can regenerate.

And you absolutly should look for some coil-protection covers. One sharp stone near your way and the coil could became
more than just a few scratches.



> explore each area to see the potential of several sites and then to bring bigger heavier deeper equipment in at a later date.

Yeah, this ist the perfect method - I would do it the same. First you really have to find some clues at all.
I'm talking about exploring total "terra incognita" or regions from which so far no reliable information exists.

Of course if you wanna go to some ruins and you know that at similar places have been found rare metal artefacts
and the stones are high mineralic there, you better bring the pro-equipment directly with you - this saves some
precious days and the weight difference of a few kg is not that extreme.


> What do you think about this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-cyuaniLBg#t=484

For steep and high mineralized mountains and if you wanna have good discrimination its not the best choice.
And it can causes too much inconvinience if theres a larger backpack on the shoulders plus the P.I. box at the chest.

[landman]

Been practicing with the Goldengate. Here's what I found.
#1 It's a motion machine.
#2 I cannot get it to respond beyond 60cm on a 10x10cm on a copper plate.
#3 It has all the bells and whistles as far as graphic ID-ing.
a.) Depth Analysis
b.) Size analysis
c.) Ferrous/Alloy/Nonferrous indication
d.) Assigns it a number on a scale of -3 to +3

#4 Other bonus indicators are a small green oval on the search screen
with a number in it telling you if the coil is responding well or if
it needs to be Ground Balanced again.
#5 Another oval with a number 0-20. When a metal passes the coil it registers 20
mineralization less than 20. Sometimes it can be fooled.
#6 On the 3D graph, iron shows up like a cavity (blue and depressed)
#7 Oscilloscope where ferrous and nonferrous are distinguished graphically.
Signal intensity graphically portrayed. (This oscilloscope feature is not as good as the Deephunters)
I really kind of like this machine. But the lack of apparent depth concerns me.
I tried 13 different combinations in the sensitivity menu which has
two variable things I can change: Threshold and RX Gain.
But the best I could get with my 10cm copper plate was 60cm.

Hmmm...the guy in the video on YouTube can do 85cm.

My next step is to take it outside and try it in my test bed.
I have a 20cm copper plate buried 15 inches and will see
how accurate it is.

More soon...

[Funfinder]

Thx for the new testing and infos, very interesting.

So now this is a motion detector - that's pretty unusual because it detects cavity.

Do you have the standard or this plus version here?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpKWeBw8TCU

Because of the depth:
Motion-detection auto-adjustment-circuits, mineralization and coil-size adds up thats why all these
motion detectors either need really huge coils for enough depth or they need extreme stability
(very stable coils, filters, strong EM-field power, e-smog immunity, signal-converters directly at the coil
so the coil-cable signal doesn't interfere with the detection-field etc.)

Your result that iron was show as cavity has to do with the ground-balance-adjustment.


the complete row looks like:

no soil (air), low mineralized soil, heavy mineralized soil, iron, steel, noble metal

If you adjust the border of cavity between iron and steel of course iron will show up already as cavity while steel and upwards as metal.
Sometimes this has the advantage to receive more sensitivity for noble metal because the contrast-factor concentrates
more at this region which makes detection of noble metal more sensitive.

If you set the ground balance center or zero value a little bit below rusty iron you get best results for very deep rusty relic stuff
or for small gold-nuggets.

But such detailed stuff isn't so important for you at the moment. It just explains why the detector may show iron as cavity.


For motion detectors there also always is the threshold important and how good are your ears trained to hear the
small changes inbeetween of signal-output. If its an analog machine with noise-chatter output within a few weeks
you will hear much deeper stuff as in the first days. And someone should like the sound-output of the GoldenGate
because he hears it for a very long time depending on how long using it.

Perhaps you are lucky and there exists some larger 45cm DD coil you can use with it.
Should be not the biggest problem - evtl. you have to ask Nokta directly for it.

Of course the weight is an issue for longer prospection sessions but you can reduce it with bungee cords etc.

If you really like the 3D output you should check out all kind of real test-results with buried stuff,
you can walk over larger plastic-pipes not too deeply buried at medium-mineralized soil or you can try
it with plastic-buckets inside of a cube of somehow mineralized bricks.


You also can try some sensitivity tests for small stuff, since its a motion-detector with a still not
too big 35cm coil:

2 days ago I found a rusty very little piece of iron 15cm buried and just 45m away from a real
powerful high voltage overland pylon. The distance to the 380kV wires was around 70 meters.
I found it with the DeepHunter and 32cm coil with sensitivity 8-9 - see pix and movie.

http://www.mirrorcreator.com/files/0...iece.avi_links

The smaller, rusty and "dissolved" such stuff is, the harder it is to find.
The movie was shot directly before digging out this little thing - you hear the orig. signal.

I also found 5min before and 1m away from there a very small roman coin 17mm but it
consists almost completly of patina meanwhile - most of the metal is already gone.
But hey - I found it and with an usually far too large 32cm coil for such small stuff
including high e-smog situation.


landman, I think the GoldenGate now can show you the from now seen a little bit
weaker power of turkish motion-circuits in combination with a certain coil-size.
The new Makro Group or Nokta motion detectors from 2013 and 2014 are improved
and if you wanna have the complete 2in1 program with the DeepHunter you will
get an improved motion-detector including also a much deeper C47cm coil plus
the ultra deep 45cm and 100cm non-motion program.

For prospecting or finding whole new treasure-locations a very lightweight
motion-detector with 35-45cm coil and good discrimination is the best so if
you can reduce the weight and find a working 45cm coil the GG is be pretty OK.
Without a larger coil its more for medium-deep stuff like usual coins and
without weight-reducing its better to use it for already known locations
and if the cavity detection works good enough you can use it on not too thick walls
or floors you can find at caves, houses, walls, cellars, castles, old stone-monuments etc.



> 20cm copper plate buried 15 inches and will see how accurate it is.

I would bury it at 2 ft. because what really counts is analyzing the deep signals.
For the strong signals of shallow finds the whole analyzing work is a waste of time.

Heres the technical manual:
http://www.noktadetectors.com/downlo..._Manual_En.pdf

For geting the GPS to work it needs a special module.
Available coils are 19x24, 24x32 and 32x40cm, which is the max.

They write at the manual at page 45 (55) that the 32x40coil is not recommended for:
small or shallow objects, mineralized soil or salty beach and regions with alot metal trash

So for real great depth the coil may be a bit to small and the MD not deep enough because of
the motion circuit and for the usual smaller stuff the coil is to big and the detector to heavy.

However - within some days or weeks you will find out if you like it, how deep it really is and
if its usful enough for your plans and goals.


> But the best I could get with my 10cm copper plate was 60cm.

It may depends on how high you set the sensitivity, how high is the e-smog at your test-location
and what is the best speed you move the coil or the plate. The ground-balance should be set to
zero or above normal for noble metal finds. Good luck and thx for the detailed information.

[landman]

Funfinder what do you believe are the skills necessary to be successful at treasure hunting.
Here are some skills, not in any particular order of importance I can think of:
1.) Local history
2.) Talking with locals
3.) Research
4.) Learning the local language

A.) Choosing the right detector
B.) Practicing and knowing your detector
C.) Mapping skills (Google Earth, plotting)
D.) GPS skills to track in and out, area covered and plot points

What are the most important above that can be learned locally before
going on a treasure quest?

Did I leave any out?

[Funfinder]

Congrats! You really hit the jackpot !!!
Because no one so far asked this really important questions!

0% = not important, 100% = very important



1.) Local history
20% - if others really would have that great info, they would get the treasures itself


2.) Talking with locals
0-100%:
It depends on finding the right locals or if they know anything at all
It can cause huge problems if it starts greed and jealousy.
You might find the treasure with the help of them but they may keep a big part of it.
All such things.


3.) Research
50% - if research would be everything, most treasures would have been found by now,
because often you can get only already since a long time existing infos, anyway.
It's more about using inorthodox methods or even "brute force" researching whole areas!


4.) Learning the local language
15% - if someone can't speak english it would be a difference.
Learning quechua, aimara or spanish might help you a little bit in Peru but theres more important first


A.) Choosing the right detector
75% - its like using a special-tool for special tasks.
Of course someone even can find treasures with real cheap equipment but no serious interested person
wanna wastes alot good opportunites and its efforts if everything also can run on a real promising level.
Usually someone needs at least 3 detectors: pinpointer - medium deep stuff - very deep stuff
btw. so far only the DeepHunter can find everything from ultra-small to ultra deep and cavity
Additional there exists special detectors for underwater, magnetometers for ship-wrecks etc.


B.) Practicing and knowing your detector
75% - Compare it with a racing game - if you wanna reach the Top 3 you need to get the best out of your car.
If you are skilled in technical things perfectly controlling a more sophisticated MD is a thing of 1 or 2 weeks but for a
person who never switched on a VCR, TV, cellphone, computer or radio it might be a book with seven seals!
btw. also important is not geting hurt while treasure-hunting and knowledge for special situations -
good diging-methods, some sort of outdoor-survival-experience, protection gear, climbing etc


C.) Mapping skills (Google Earth, plotting)
30% - today with smartphones, GPS and digicams you don't need much of those traditional archeological disciplines.
Some sense of orientation of course always is need for not geting lost in deep jungle or woods and to remember
already searched locations and where you found something. A real treasure-hunter does not have the time for
drawing all the finds and locations by hand in a sketch-book. But you can set waypoints on digital maps so
you know where you found something or where you've been already and you can make alot pix of the whole area.


D.) GPS skills to track in and out, area covered and plot points
10% - Modern technology can do the most of this automatically.



Besides all these important factors treasure-hunting still is a real adventure and for avoiding
failures its recommended to learn from all those many already previously made experiences!

This means: It is like a gamble and in the first place you really should enjoy the whole entertainment,
the gold-fever, the thrill of it, the excitement including having an enduring motivation to win the game,
being someone special who is able to go far beyond and reach goals no other has the guts or power for.
Because this makes the difference of hanging on or leaving everything frustrated already after just 3 days.
The 5x amount of treasures could be found if all those "I wanna strike it rich"-guys wouldn't give up far too early.


And there is another very important thing:
There are the treasure-finders and the treasure-collectors ...
Just take a look at all those movies and stories - alot of them are for real!

Somebody found a gold-vein up in the mountains, he was so proud and told everyone about it,
then the jealousy started ("this is unfair, I have nothing and this guy has pockets full of gold...")
and finally his gold got someone else...

So another big skill is to avoid all kind of problems that could ruin your whole efforts and motivations...
Everyone has its own strategies and thats also a very exciting part of the treasure-hunt:
Securing everything so that formerly lost treasures don't get lost again.
Play: Thief (2014) so you know what could happen with treasures ...
btw. there exists another interesting movie - perhaps you can find it somewhere:
Xtreme Mysteries - Where is the lost gold of the Incas
Mayas, Incas, Aztecs - this goes from Mexico down the half Andes to South-America.
There are chances without end!
Don't forget being equipped with enough liquor or you may not survive all the bugs there.


However: Someone really needs alot of spare time, should like the simple life out in the
jungle or in the wilderness, being able to see all evtl. obstacles as challenges that brings you
further and after he's found precious stuff, and I'm pretty shure some can find alot of it all over
there, geting the treasures and own butt in one piece outta there !!!

And perhaps the final part could be the most complicated, dangerous and exciting chapter of the whole adventure!

[landman]

Because the ground balancing height movements tolerances are so critical for the Nokta I built a measuring device. All wood no metal.
This will get me used to the up and down precise heights for proper ground balancing.

[Funfinder]

Thanx for the pix, landman - real nice work, but usually and out in the fields you won't need it.

You even can hunt with ground-balance set to -201 or to +201 but you should not buy the Golden King
for this because it has no Reset Button directly at the holding-grip - the Jeohunter also didn't had it but
now we have this great improvement for the DeepHunter.

This was the Nr.1 modification I made for the Jeohunter, because for a non-motion detector
reseting the "coil" to zero is one of the most important things and it should be possible super simple
with the detectors/coils holding hand so the other one is free to carry shovel and backpack etc.!


landman - the main goal of the ground-balance is: Make the ground "invisible" so the finds are more visible.
But those finds are from low (iron or even meteorites) to high level (very good conductive metal objects).

So its always a compromise and sometimes its much more better using a not so good ground-balance
and instead making the detector much more sensitive for a special kind of metal.

But this requires an easy accessable reset-button, because the coil will give at high sensitive a signal just
because it was moved too far or too close to the ground itself.
The more sensitivity you wanna use, the easier the highsensitive non-motion circuits gets disturbed by changing field values,
but thats exactly how it works and what makes non-motion that extremly deep!

Under real conditions its possible to hunt at very high speed with the 45cm non-motion coil 5cm above ground
from -100 to +100 ground-balance while pressing the reset button every 20 seconds or
something. This also has to do with slightly changing of the ground conditions and extremly slowly changing
of the internal measure-circuit itself (frequency-drift or whatever it causes).

The main important thing here is that you wanna reset the circuit immediatly and not first put the coil to the ground,
press at the electronic-box the reset button, start all over again, because after a few minutes this really can
scratch your nerves. You can do this if you have one hand free but that way you probably have to keep behind your
shovel and backpack which is not the best idea if you found something and then every time you have to run
first 20m back and forth to bring your equipment to the find locations.



btw. there's an additional info for you because of the skills:
No matter where you are, you need some special "task-force" training for the real tough treasure-hunts.

If there is no snow at the moment where you live - go out at 10 P.M. in some public park with some detector
and dig there - don't get seen! This is no joke because you need the mental strenght - real treasure-hunting
can became much more nerve-wrecking! What are you doing if you find some ammunition? Runing away?
Stoping everything? This can ruin your whole plans but it shouldn't, because you can overcome it
by some sort of: "go beyond your fears"-training beforewards.

You can see the whole issue also in the episodes of "Gold Rush" or "Bering Sea Gold" -
this whole stuff is nothing for some faint at heart - softies.
But what I'm talking - I you've been in the Army the whole thing will be a piece of cake for you anway.
I just wanted to make it clear that as an additional skill being fearless, brave and very tough also
can became an very important part to go for the treasures and get them out of the danger-zone!
Especially while at many treasure-rich regions there are still the remainings of fights all over.

As additional equipment you should order some nightview-device (better are temperature-cameras
but those things are still extremly expensive), camouflage-outfit, self-defense-weapons
(especially important if there are dangerous animals, too) and perhaps even some dynamite if
the rocks are not moving otherwise! It also depends on what force reigns over the territory you
wanna go if you need additional protection or not and you need to know if there are guards,
mines or other unwanted stuff. This sounds like from a bad treasure-hunting movie but it is real!
Of course not if you go to some regions nobody has any clue about a treasure and where are no
well know antique monuments etc. If you tell the people on your way directly that you're a treasure-hunter,
some may think you will absolutly be rich and you will know exactly where the gold is, so be very careful!
They even may capture you as their treasure until enough money to free you has been paid.

Watch the Wes Craven movie: "The serpent and the rainbow" ( 1988 ) to get some impression what can happen
there in South America if you're dealing with the wrong guys. There are not so many highly civilicated folks
around as in North-America or Europe! Especially not outside in the wilderness where you wanna go.
They may be very friendly and inviting as long as you're play along with them but it could become
very dangerous if they get a clue that somebody wanna "steals" their "treasures" - so you need some
good partners and enough info beforewards how far you can go and where are the best chances.

Personally seen - if I would live closer to those countries, I would have no fear to go there - I just would
watch my back and see from the beginning how far you can go at this or that region without causing too much trouble.

And if you can get the support of the local authorities you may not get the whole treasures but alot useful help
and perhaps even the needed info where are promising locations to hunt. I guess its pretty hard for a foreigner
to get detailed info about the real interesting places just by some worldwide published books or something.

[landman]

Funfinder, what is the "reset button" actually do? Reset the threshold?

[landman]

"Under real conditions its possible to hunt at very high speed with the 45cm non-motion coil "
Funfinder is it my imagination but do those VCO Pulse detectors with the 1 meter coils
are slow to pick up a deep target? I've been watching some air and ground tests and it would
appear for target that are say 50x50cm buried 200cm are detectable BUT they move the coil so slow
and almost wait for the signal to build up and then respond to it. It's like the energy between
the coil and target has to fill up a bucket of energy before it overflows into a hearable signal.

[Funfinder]

The reset-button is comparable with adjusting a compass exactly to north.

If you look at it, left is west and on the right east (for the Jeo- & DeepHunter: lower is mineralic or ground, higher is metal).

Or compare it with a switch:
If set at sensitivity 10, a coin is able to trigger the signal to on from 40cm distance, at sens. 5 from 20cm.
Same with a piece of brick, but from the other side of the detection band and with different tone.

The reset button sets the MD to the actual quiet zone, depending on how high mineralized is the soil
and its EM-field environment in relation with the coils distance incl. the manual ground-balance settings.

The 25% less deep and e-smog sensitive motion-circuits all the time are adjusting this automatically.



The second question:
PI detectors are ca. 2 - 3 x slower than motion or non-motion detectors because they need much more time:
pulse sending, waiting time, pulse receiving inclusive signal processing and output
This makes them unsensitive for hard to find targets if the coil is not moved very slowly
or if the targets are very small or deep.


The 45cm and the 100cm DeepHunter non-motion coils are ultra-fast - like a whirlwind...
http://www.mirrorcreator.com/files/M...thod.avi_links

You can sweep them with 5meter per second and you still will hear a short but clear signal.

But of course slower (more intense) interaction of the EM-field with a metal object always will give better and deeper results,
no matter if motion, non-motion, PI or whatever circuits are in use. The depth difference of usual speed search and ultra slow
is ca. 5-10% for the Jeohunter or DeepHunter, so it's the best method to sweep it fast until you have found a promising area.

[Funfinder]

After alot time I found out now that the plugs of all the DeepHunter's coils
REALLY must be improved - especially if the temperatures are around the freezing point.

Those are 0,2 millimeter too small which can lead to heavy lose-contacts and loud detection signal-errors after some time,
depending how cold it is outside, because the gumcable gets very stiff if the thermometer reaches lower temperatures,
and if the cable it very hard, the whole sweeping-movement-wear-n-tear-energy goes directly into the connector !!!

This may sounds funny - 0,2 mm, but this is important professional improvement work for geting
a detector that lasts "forever" - not cheap electronic-junk that destroys itself soon after the warranty-time is over!

Especially the very hard to recognize left-right movement
(if the electronic box hangs on the body: up <-> down movement)
of the coil-plug must be stopped absolute completly !!!

Because it bends the inside contact-metal-leads until these may have no more (good) contact at all!

This topic also is important to most P.I. detectors with "hang at the chest" - boxes.

It must not be, that expensive detectors are geting "broken" just because the coil-cable connector ...

http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...ared-detectors!

newest improved plug:

[landman]

Got a question Funfinder...
I learned on the operators manual for the new AKA T-72 metal detector
that they say to adjust the ground balance a few degrees or points (digital scale)
into the negative slightly to help find large high conductive metals.
Why?

I just learned that ground balancing is about taking the ground "hit"
and subtracting it from the combination of it (the ground) and the object detected
so you can eliminate the ground to get as accurate
VDI number as possible. So I get the mathmatics here.
Ground = +10
Object = +70
Total of both = +80

Ground reading =+10
Ground balance compensation -10
Ground is now =0
Object =+70
Visual reading +70

[Funfinder]

Absolutly correct - with one exclusion:
ground has no plus value, its zero like air if its nonmineralic humus, wood, limestone, quartz-sand etc. or its negativ mineralized.

You can see it this way:
The GEB (ground elimination balance) has a range of 20 units if its manual or larger if its automatic so it can discriminate
the complete mineralic area.
The whole range has a scale from -100 to 0 to 100: -50: meteorites; 0: small rusty nails; 100: large noble metal objects
If you set the GEB to 10 the detector will see already rusty nails as "mineralized ground" and discriminates them.
(because the GEB then is from 0 to 20).
Shifting the middle value of the Ground Balance into direction noble metal (plus 10) often also makes the
detector more sensitive for them because of the higher resolution- or contrast factor gain.

If you shift the GEB center to -10 it occupies the mineralic range from -20 to 0. This way rusty nails are detectable
and the medium metal stuff (steel etc.) very good, but not so good low-metallic-iron-meteorites or silver coins.

[landman]

Funfinder,

What's the best way to design a good sweep style?
With almost any detector, I can swing for one hour.
BUT when the swinging goes longer than that.
My arm or shoulder can get tired.
To keep motivated, as you have pointed out in the past
posts, it is very important be comfortable and not fatigue.

I remember a professional treasure hunter of 60 years,
his technique was to keep the detector very close to his body/feet.
The advantage was you were not extending your arm out from your body
and tiring your arm. But the disadvantage was the sweep path side to
does not cover much area. Because of the tight
technique of keeping the coil near you. It does cut down on
fatigue because your arm is practically hanging straight down.

However when you extend you arm out a bit
and the detectors shaft and coil are much more forward of your body,
you can sweep nice long wide swaths. But you run the risk of
tiring your arm. What do you say?

[Funfinder]

Good question - there are 3 main factors:

- what you hold should be very lightweight
- be able to hunt (sweep the coil) with left and right arm the same good
- use the movement-energy to make the coil more lightweight



> his technique was to keep the detector very close to his body/feet.

This is completly unuseful, it will take ages to scan a larger area and
you even may detect your personal metal-stuff or the metal parts of the shoes.



The best method is a combination of the 3 points above including some
specific condition (the arms get trained already after a few search days).

Usually it works the best this way:

You hold your very lightweight big coil so its at leat 50cm! infront of your shoes.
This way you can make high-efficient 2-3m long sweeps (180°) while you can
go with usually walking speed forwards. Accelerate the coil in the beginning
strong enough so the centrifugal force will lift up the coil automatically and
with enough power so it lasts until the ca. 180° half circle sweep will end.

Usually you have to do this just a few seconds or minutes anyway until you have
found something which needs digging and is relaxing for the arm-muscles.

But of course you also can change the arm that sweeps the coil every time
or even already before your usual used arm starts to hurts or gets exhausted.

Believe me, you can do this for hours, as long as the stuff you hold in your
arms is not too heavy. Thats why its so important that you use a detector
where the electronic-box and battery must not be holded with the arm, too.

If someone is too overmotivated or enthusiastic and ignores if it really starts to hurt it can
lead to some kind of tennis-elbow but even this goes away after long enough recovery time.
So its the best to start it relaxed and slow until the body has the fitness for full performance.


The 45cm DeepHunter coil in combination with the very lightweight Garrett Ace
alu-pole is already at the limit concerning weight and working the whole day.

Including one alu pole, a part of the coil cable and coil protection cover it
has exactly 1,1kg that someone has to handle at least 50cm in front of his body
for a longer time. The 32cm coil though is much easier to hold but it covers
less ground. And with the 45cm coil you still can detect micro stuff like
small buttons or 8mm lead-balls - see orig. finds from a few days ago.





As an alternative for "heavy" treasure-hunts you may use the Garrett Ace 250
or something lightweight where the complete detector incl. coil etc. weights
less than 1kg but don't expect too deep and fast search results.

My at the moment most lightweight deep solution is a modified Garrett GTI 1500
with hang over the neck unit and 45cm Detech coil (it weights only 880 grams
incl. coil cover and cable and pole - these are just 220g difference compared with
the 45cm DeepHunter coil and because of the leverage-force you feel a real difference)
but those Garretts are beeping like a synthy-concert if there are any e-smog sources nearby
so its not the best and most sensitive choice for everywhere.

But what I wanna say: Either the coil alone to hold or inclusive mounted electronic box -
don't expect longer hunting-sessions, especially not at steep terrains -
if you have to hold more than 1250 grams in your arm or hand as long as you're not Rambo.

If the coil weights below 600 grams its less a problem for the arm if there is some additional electronic
and battery stuff but those coils are not very deep and it can take far too long to check out large areas.

However - after a short training time you will see that sweeping can be done with both arms the same good.
And if you got the right swing you even won't feel the weight because the coil almost floats over the ground!

And if you're crazy enough try the full double turn so you don't get dizzy. While walking forwards one
360° clockwise turn followed by a 360° counter-clockwise. Not recommend at woods or areas with
alot bushes and rocks but at huge flat areas the coil even can weight 2kg with this method.