So you have some weak tone near the coil, and despite some instrument problems, at least some change between coil and no coil connected, it can be assumed that TX part works. You have audio, so timing, or at least part of it also works. I assume (please confirm ) that your threshold control works too, so you can adjust continuous tone at some point with threshold pot and set below threshold, just not responding to metal. Voltages around U3 should normally be around zero, not abnormal to indicate some obvious failure. U7 switches are most probably good, one is used for audio, chip failure is unlikely. Even with partial failure, all this will respond at least to some degree. At this point, usual scope issue appear, with scope this is 30 second work, but without it, multimeter is almost useless. Some fault around U2 input amp is most likely, you can adjust offset to zero, chip may be good, so try this first:
Carefully check component values for proper placement of R7,8,9,12,13,14, it is very easy to make mistake especially with metal film resistors, say, 1K and 1M is only one color band difference. Good idea is to recheck entire board for misplaced components. Also check D1,2, first for correct orientation (if by chance, one diode is misplaced, so both oriented in same direction, this can cause damage to U2). Unsolder one end and test diodes with multimeter on “diode test” mode for possible breakdown, should read 0.6-0.7v in one direction, infinity in another. Solder them back before you turn on detector again, or U2 will blow.
Two more useful things you can do: first make well focused photo of your board under good light condition, bottom side too and post it. Also, try to obtain any piezo element (buzzer, tweeter), can be removed from any electronic junk, any type and for any purpose, just must be piezo crystal, not dynamic (magnetic) type with wire, like in headphone, must measure infinity in ohm test. This can be effectively used like some sort of “blind man's oscilloscope”, if you can't see it, you can hear it, very useful troubleshooting tool. Will add more on this, may be interesting for anyone having trouble with Surf, last few problems reported here would be solved in matter of minutes using it. Simple go-no go test, but in most cases this is only thing needed.
Some sort of well documented “Surf 1.2 troubleshooting guide” document is badly needed here. Or offering assembled and tested PCB's.
Carefully check component values for proper placement of R7,8,9,12,13,14, it is very easy to make mistake especially with metal film resistors, say, 1K and 1M is only one color band difference. Good idea is to recheck entire board for misplaced components. Also check D1,2, first for correct orientation (if by chance, one diode is misplaced, so both oriented in same direction, this can cause damage to U2). Unsolder one end and test diodes with multimeter on “diode test” mode for possible breakdown, should read 0.6-0.7v in one direction, infinity in another. Solder them back before you turn on detector again, or U2 will blow.
Two more useful things you can do: first make well focused photo of your board under good light condition, bottom side too and post it. Also, try to obtain any piezo element (buzzer, tweeter), can be removed from any electronic junk, any type and for any purpose, just must be piezo crystal, not dynamic (magnetic) type with wire, like in headphone, must measure infinity in ohm test. This can be effectively used like some sort of “blind man's oscilloscope”, if you can't see it, you can hear it, very useful troubleshooting tool. Will add more on this, may be interesting for anyone having trouble with Surf, last few problems reported here would be solved in matter of minutes using it. Simple go-no go test, but in most cases this is only thing needed.
Some sort of well documented “Surf 1.2 troubleshooting guide” document is badly needed here. Or offering assembled and tested PCB's.
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