Questions about White's BullsEye.

[dmq1219]

Just got a second hand bullseye.
It is comfortable to grab but the sensitivity is lower than ProPointer Profind a lot.
Why White's company do not make a higher sensitivity model ?
And when we need to use the sensitivity adjusting knob?

Thanks for sharing your thought.

[Qiaozhi]

Just got a second hand bullseye.
It is comfortable to grab but the sensitivity is lower than ProPointer Profind a lot.
Why White's company do not make a higher sensitivity model ?
And when we need to use the sensitivity adjusting knob?

Thanks for sharing your thought.

I have a Whites Bullseye II, and the detection distance is sufficient for the job of pinpointing. Too much depth in a pinpointer can sometimes be a disadvantage.

[Funfinder]

I have both Pinpointers - the Whites sensitivity is pretty useless for serious treasure-hunting (comparable with a cheap cable-finder)
and the Garrett Pro-Pointer also is far too unsensitive without manual-adjustable screw-modification, near the ferrite.


The only important thing is that you have some experience time with a high sensitive pinpointer:

If you set the sensitivity to the max sometimes pressure to the tip of the Pin-Pointer while "sticking this thing around"
is enough to get already a signal. In such case you must reduce the sensitivity if you push the Pinpointer deeper in harder soil.


A super sensitive Pinpointer is absolutly an advantage:

If you have detected something with your usual MD you should directly use the Pinpointer first, not starting digging.
Depending on the site but its around 25-40% the find is just 3-10cm below so the pinpointer tells you directly the location
and many times you even don't need the shovel etc.

For usual digging a high sensitive pinpointer also makes it much easier:

If the pinpointer doesn't detect it directly from the surface, within seconds I open a hole of ca. 25x25cm in diameter, 15cm deep.
(a hole-diameter of 25-30cm is highly recommended to reduce the risk that the shovel hits a precious or dangerous find directly!)

Now usually the find is directly in the middle but if its a nail or a deep find with a high sensitive pinpointer you can detect in what
direction is the find so the hole must be not completly exdended but only into the detected direction.

Finds that are 8mm or smaller and 15cm or deeper you may not detect at all without a high sensitive pinpointer.
Don't blame your Metal-Detector, the signal is there, the little wire or rusty flitter or ultra-thin and tiny piece of alu foil is there,
but you can have a hard time to locate it inside of the hole or in the heap of humus or soil.

Per instance detects my modified Garrett Pro Pointer a very thin 8mm nail from 12mm distance.
Without this mod or if I don't move the turnable screw after switching the detector on, the nail must have directly contact.

Now you can imagine how long you can poke around with an unsensitive Pinpointer (often until you have direct metal contact)
if your usual metal-detector is sensitive enough to detect such small pieces, like 10mm coins up to 20cm deep!!!


So the rule of thumb is:
cheap metal detector - a cheap pinpointer is enough
high sensitive metal detector - a high sensitive pinpointer is needed

btw. the excavation-time can be reduced by 50% if you can handle the Pinpointer the right way.


The signalization is another issue:
Only the vibration works really good, because it starts very soft until to the full depending how close and large is the find.

Those pinpointer beepers usually have no graduation and start with full "noise" if the "squelch-level" is reached.
This can be very disturbing especially if the high sensitive pinpointer is pressed into the ground and then gives a failure signal.
But with an ascending amount of vibration you can find out directly if the signal is real or not, because if its not real the
slow vibration starts everywhere when you stick the Pinpointer into the soil, while the good calibrated vibration only starts if the metal comes near enough.

One big problem of the Garrett-Pro-Pointer - it is "touch-sensitive".
Often too much pressure to the plastic around the ferrite-coil is enough to start a signal.
Of course this raises if the sensitivity was made higher.

They should have isolated the coil somehow from the surrounding plastic by soft material or whatever instead of glueing it directly into it!
A layer of 1mm would have been good enough for this pressure-isolation, because if the plastic is hard enough, the plastic deformation would
be only some 0,1mm's.

So this touch-sensitivity is the result if people all the time just look for quick n cheap solutions. Same with the horrific e-smog sensitivity of
the usual Garrett detectors, but the Pro-Pointer at least is immune against that (because of the small coil size).

Besides there are other solutions like PI-pinpointers, many of them are even fully waterproofed.
Those are also very sensitive but often the coil is larger so sticking it into soft ground won't work.

And finally those Garrett 250 and 350s with 4'' sniper coil and "pistol-modified" are another pinpointing solution.
Very small stuff spread over a large area and deeper sometimes is better to find with such a Sniper-Coil-Pinpointer than with the Pro-Pointer.

[dmq1219]

Thanks George. It is a helpful.

I have a Whites Bullseye II, and the detection distance is sufficient for the job of pinpointing. Too much depth in a pinpointer can sometimes be a disadvantage.

[dmq1219]

Hi Funfinder,
Your description about two P.P is very detail. Thanks
"cheap metal detector - a cheap pinpointer is enough
high sensitive metal detector - a high sensitive pinpointer is needed"
I agree this very much.

Do not find the touch-sensitivity yet since I dig on the beach more. I opened a pro-pointer and I find it is do fill with hard epoxy. Maybe it is little hard to make it stable and touch less by the handcraft.
BTW, how you modify your propointer? I watched a video about boost the propointer by wear a ring on the thumb which will close to the ferrite coil. Is it like that?