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GPZ7000 repair?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Carl-NC View Post
    If Minelab did it the way I would do it...
    But I'm also sure that you would anticipate any possibility of "excess" from the "outside world", and design protection against burnout on that module.
    If not some "space" approach and solution, then at least protection from trivial problems such as short circuits on the connector and the like.

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    • #17
      What impresses me with this case it the cost for repair. The module itself probably worth under couple of hundred bucks at best. They already charged you hefty amount when you originally pay for the device. It's not working not due to misuse, tempering or whatever. It's "protected" against modifications and repair so they know it's very complex /almost impossible/ to repair by 3rd party..

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      • #18
        Originally posted by eclipse View Post
        What impresses me with this case it the cost for repair. The module itself probably worth under couple of hundred bucks at best. They already charged you hefty amount when you originally pay for the device. It's not working not due to misuse, tempering or whatever. It's "protected" against modifications and repair so they know it's very complex /almost impossible/ to repair by 3rd party..
        My point.
        Read my first post on this topic.
        I am so angry hearing his story and mentining $4k6... like it was I instead of him in that position and trouble.

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        • #19
          The situation will be identical for any out of warranty GPZ repair and the problem identified to the pod. I acquired the detector in this condition in a transaction. My challenge is to fix it.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by bklein View Post
            The situation will be identical for any out of warranty GPZ repair and the problem identified to the pod. I acquired the detector in this condition in a transaction. My challenge is to fix it.
            Is that so!
            And I killed myself here with nervousness because of your hard-earned money that was stolen from you by the greedy ML !!!!
            This gives to the whole story a different perspective!





            P.S.
            I misinterpreted the instructions on that bottle: CH2Cl2 can be inhaled as freely as possible!
            It promotes hair growth and enlargement ... of a certain organ!



            P.S.2
            Not that I needed back then, when i melted numerous coils and modules...

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            • #21
              Didn’t want you to lose your sleep. :-)
              But your concerns are well intended and I share them.

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              • #22
                The biggest problem of the whole story is if minelab put inside rx discrete component which when the coil is turned on sends digital data to the processor do the rest as I wrote in a private message!According to the description that the sensitivity is low, I would rather suspect an op amp in that resin-filled module!Possibly the problem does not lie in the module as Carl said it would be best if you had another complete pcb to try...

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                • #23
                  Xray Photo of GPZ black module

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ID:	363143Here is a photo of the black module from my GPZ board. It gets hot to the right of the raised circular thing.
                  I took it to work and got xray photos of it too. Maybe you guys can make out key components....
                  Just find the bad one! :-)

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                  • #24
                    Good x-ray pics! I'm a little surprised, it looks like plain old SMT parts, something that would not be difficult to reverse-engineer. For the purpose of solving your problem it doesn't help, though.

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                    • #25
                      Cut a small piece of the black stuff and throw it in a boiling water. If it's not heat resistant in less than 30 seconds it will start getting soft. If it does throw the damn thing and boil it. Take it out quick and smush it with a soft tool, not sharp so no component gets damaged. If you are in luck a whole side will be detatch itself from the board so actually free the permiter first and hope the rest will come off.

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                      • #26
                        This is the video I was inspired by to boil the board I had covered in epoxy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiPe...nnel=Create%21

                        and here is the board which I've successfully decapped.

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                        • #27
                          Looks like I should remove the module from the PCB first to determine if the black we see is a housing or not.

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                          • #28
                            Does the epoxy stay soft after it cools down?

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                            • #29
                              No it returns back to what it was so you need to boil it again. I needed 3-4 passes on mine but it was very thick layer.

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                              • #30
                                Click image for larger version

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                                Success with removal. Tip: use of low temp solder kit (SMDKIT-1) helped!

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