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Manual processing of the tips with a fixed grinder, a lot of the finest aluminum dust in the air and on the workbench... that's how chemtrails are produced!
All that remains is for me to direct a strong fan at the neighbor and sprinkle him with handmade chemtrails!
Why is the deep state smarter than me? If they can; why can't I?!
Manual processing of the tips with a fixed grinder, a lot of the finest aluminum dust in the air and on the workbench... that's how chemtrails are produced!
All that remains is for me to direct a strong fan at the neighbor and sprinkle him with handmade chemtrails!
Why is the deep state smarter than me? If they can; why can't I?!
In your case, it is inexpensive and reliable to make rods from stainless electrodes for welding
Those rods look pretty large diameter. I would expect thinner rods to work just as well, but they will push into the ground much easier.
Spring steel, 3mm to 4mm ( 1/8th inch ) would be OK, I have a bottle-digging probe that is made from 3.7mm spring steel. Perhaps if the steel was given a good copper plating it would improve electrical performance, and protect the steel from rusting, too.
Artyom and Skippy... see these two probes?
They are 6mm diameter, stainless steel, sharpened at the tip like a razor.
I have 4 such, those left from the resistivity meter.
The other day I went to the forest where there is shade and increased humidity in the ground.
Forest land, typical, common, has a lot of small stones here and there. Plant roots etc.
I was not able to push the probe into the ground even 10 cm with my hand.
So I tried to step on it.
It started bending??
That's why I decided on these, duralumin, 15mm diameter, 29.5cm long. Strong, unbending.
They will have to be "hammered" into the soil, either with a hammer or a larger stone.
Somewhere it will be easier and somewhere more difficult.
Sites of interest, which I have been visiting for years, where there are silver denarius and
gold tremisis and solidus... those sites are mostly with a lot of stones mixed with earth.
I know in advance that it will be difficult. That's why these duralumin probes are the right solution.
After all... the original ones are "thick" and strong, but made of iron. Like giant nails.
So it has already been shown in practice that thin "steel" ones are not good, at least for these soils that I have here.
... In order for all of this to make sense, to have an effect, to achieve some real results;
the probes must be "rammed" into the ground at least 20 cm.
As I said, these are 29.5 cm, I plan to ram them up to 25 cm into the ground.
If the composition of the soil in that place allows.
Someone will say, "Wow, that's a lot of work!"
Okay, it is.
But one tremisis is worth from 130-200e, one solidus from 300-400e to ~e (several thousand euros, depending on which one it is and what it is like),
one silver denarius from 20-30e to ~ (several hundred and even thousands of euros, depending on which one it is and what it is like).
It is enough that such a finding is 1 cm below the range of the detector...
and in the case of using the Depth Doubler, one such finding is enough to pay off a month or more of such hard work!
The whole point of the story is to return to the old sites and to the places where there were such finds.
It is almost certain that in one of those places there are still some of those finds that are that one "unfortunate" centimeter deeper...
The dilemma is (actually not) whether to spend 4-10k euros on some ML of dubious abilities and with an uncertain outcome...
Deus II which is 1300-1600e and we still have no absolute conviction that it is really that much better than Deus 1...
some other oversalted an expensive toy with equally dubious performance...
Or buy (in my case make) a Depth Doubler and try it first.
The math is simple and straightforward.
did you work out a way on how you will pull the probes out of the hard ground?
I am thinking for some of them will not be an easy job
Well done!
I was wondering the same thing today!
I'm just trying to figure out how …
One of the solutions is to drill a 3-4mm hole at the top, say at a height of 27-28cm, and to pass a steel cable through there, to make a small loop and for each probe to have such a loop...
Or instead of the cable, only a hole of 3-4 mm should be left and there should be a "helper" in the form of a steel "hook" that will be inserted into that hole and with its help
the probes can be pulled out...
The top will be nailed often, it will be the most critical area, that's why the side hole should not be wide, but still enough wide to pass a "helper" for extraction.
Open question, for better ideas and suggestions...
I was also thinking about what fitting is needed to insert / remove these probes. In the case of my suggested thin probes, I thought of brazing / silver-soldering a larger diameter cylinder of brass, or maybe a brass nut, to the top of the rod. Then a hooked tool that fits under the nut can be used to apply a pull force, for removal.
I was also thinking about ways to make the electrical connection to the wires. If there was a 'male' connector, like a 4mm 'banana' plug on the top of the rod, then the cable would have a matching free socket ( banana jack ), that is pushed onto the probe.
I was also thinking about what fitting is needed to insert / remove these probes. In the case of my suggested thin probes, I thought of brazing / silver-soldering a larger diameter cylinder of brass, or maybe a brass nut, to the top of the rod. Then a hooked tool that fits under the nut can be used to apply a pull force, for removal.
I was also thinking about ways to make the electrical connection to the wires. If there was a 'male' connector, like a 4mm 'banana' plug on the top of the rod, then the cable would have a matching free socket ( banana jack ), that is pushed onto the probe.
Unfortunately, the good always brings with it the bad...
duralumin does not solder and is very difficult to weld, with a special "TIG" device.
I tried that when I was making 2box antennas... it didn't work, it turned out really ugly so I had to re-bend and make other antennas.
I also had a "foot" in mind, but it is impossible to add it to the bar, welding is out of the question.
Any subsequent ramming into the soil would cause damage.
For now, the only thing that comes to mind is what I described in the previous post.
And as for connecting with a cable, it's no problem at all!
I will buy 20 pieces of "clips" like on car battery chargers.
On the 20-meter cable, I will strip the insulation, 1-2cm, every 2 meters, and solder a "clip" there.
Quote:"I also had a "foot" in mind, but it is impossible to add it to the bar, welding is out of the question"
One practical way is to use a die to cut a thread on the outside of the bar, and fit some matching 'nut'.
The nearest 'standard' metric thread is M14 x 2 , so you would need to turn down the rod diameter to about 14mm, then cut the thread. Not an easy quick job at all. Ditto for tapping out the 'nut' part. Doing it 20 or 30 times would be a laborious process. Obviously if this was the original plan ... you would purchase 14mm dural rod.
The standard metric thread sizes in that range are M12 x 0.75; M14 x 2.0; M16 x 2.0
The nut size for M14 is 22mm, available in steel, stainless steel and brass easily. Bond it in place with epoxy resin, or use two nuts and tighten them against each other to lock them.
The standard metric thread sizes in that range are M12 x 0.75; M14 x 2.0; M16 x 2.0
The nut size for M14 is 22mm, available in steel, stainless steel and brass easily. Bond it in place with epoxy resin, or use two nuts and tighten them against each other to lock them.
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