TESORO GOLDEN SABRE

[kurtie100]

See my attachment

Golden sabre

in Dutch

[strujas]

Did you made this detector by this board ,,how it work?and which dimension is board?

[kurtie100]

i received from a friend , i need to speak with him but i will redesigned

im looking now for a good PCB software ,

Maybe you can help me.

Best regards

[strujas]

I am working in Protel DXP,,he is very dificult ,,I recommend you eagle,,but find full version,,,,ask your friend is this board tested ,,does it work,,,I started to losing faith in people and projects on this forum,,i made a board for Coin hawk and he doesnt work,,then I made'd board for white 3900 and he also doesn't work,,I am investing lot of time and effort,,,in last time that was vain..

[kurtie100]

ok , i found protel 99se and eagle4.16 full versions .

I will see the diffrence and start then with a the GOlden Sabre.
At this moment i don't receive any news from my friend

[strujas]

Protel 99se have a many bugs,,,Dxp 2004 is much better
I wish you a luck,,,you says that you have full version of eagle 4.16,, my friend Ivconic need that program,,can you tell me where we can download full version,,or can you send me?

[kurtie100]

Hello ,

I will put Eagle on my Webspace .

When its finished i send you the link in your PB

[chemelec]

Hello ,

I will put Eagle on my Webspace .

When its finished i send you the link in your PB

Why do you need to Re-Design it?
The PCB actually Looks pretty good already.

Is that Schematic Correct?

[kurtie100]

i received that from a friend and he promised me that the shematic is correct.

But he didn't build already this MD.
I will do it , but i can't decid because , between the golden or bandido

[Leto]

LETS BET

Guess what..
I looked at shematic and almost all the parts were also in my el. junque box.
As I was free yesterday I etched and populated the board..
.. few parts are still missing -10caps and IC-sockets

My question would be ->
What are those 4.7uF "BI" caps? On blury shematic "B.Pol[?]"
Probably bi-polar (non-polarised)??
I can attach large 4.7uF (100V) polyester caps, but are really BIG.

Why IC-sockets? -> because If I'd bet:
I guess it's about 4:1 in favor of project-non-working..Remember Ivconic's Gold Demon?
So I'd like to save at least IC's when my hammer strikes.

[Max]

Guess what..
I looked at shematic and almost all the parts were also in my el. junque box.
As I was free yesterday I etched and populated the board..
.. few parts are still missing -10caps and IC-sockets

My question would be ->
What are those 4.7uF "BI" caps? On blury shematic "B.Pol[?]"
Probably bi-polar (non-polarised)??
I can attach large 4.7uF (100V) polyester caps, but are really BIG.

Why IC-sockets? -> because If I'd bet:
I guess it's about 4:1 in favor of project-non-working..Remember Ivconic's Gold Demon?
So I'd like to save at least IC's when my hammer strikes.

Hi Leto,
unfortunately I don't know anything about this schema. But, do you think it's not working (a joke ?) or something wrong ?
Why you decided to build this ? I mean there is bandido II umax circuit and works pretty well if you have original coil or make a good one yourself...
There is any advantage in depth respect to bandido II or is just curiosity ???

I think that making good coils for tesoro's is the most difficault part...if schematic is ok. Because they need very well done nulling.

Best regards,
Max

[Leto]

I KNEW IT ..

I tried first the power:
positive rail:8.0V
negative rail: 0.74V - not even negative
Of course rest of the circuit not working, no oscillation, NOTHING!!

Originally Posted by Max
Hi Leto,
unfortunately I don't know anything about this schema. But, do you think it's not working (a joke ?) or something wrong ?
Why you decided to build this ? I mean there is bandido II umax circuit and works pretty well if you have original coil or make a good one yourself...
There is any advantage in depth respect to bandido II or is just curiosity ???

Hi Max, as you can see it looks like a >faked shematic< and consecutively someones failed PCB project..? PCB is really nice and no mistakes were found according to shematic.

I like discriminating abilities of this MD..with its notch accept/reject circuitry. Maybe it could be even usable to kick-out that pottery (redbrick) bothering you while still accepting targets above and below brick response.

Maybe I'll try to connect circuit to real +-5v supply, any ideas?

[Max]

I tried first the power:
positive rail:8.0V
negative rail: 0.74V - not even negative
Of course rest of the circuit not working, no oscillation, NOTHING!!



Hi Max, as you can see it looks like a >faked shematic< and consecutively someones failed PCB project..? PCB is really nice and no mistakes were found according to shematic.

I like discriminating abilities of this MD..with its notch accept/reject circuitry. Maybe it could be even usable to kick-out that pottery (redbrick) bothering you while still accepting targets above and below brick response.

Maybe I'll try to connect circuit to real +-5v supply, any ideas?

Hi Leto,
yes pottery make me crazy...and I'm actually dealing with some bandido disc stranges but interested in similar circuits too.

I think that something could be wrong in that schematic in the osc section:
- if you have no oscillation you can't get -5 volts from charge pump

I don't understand why there is a fet near tx transistor base...I think the error could be there. I think that polarization of tx transistor is wrong and that caused you have no oscillations at all.

The circuit can't provide real -5volt (like in bandido) but think it's not a real problem cause lm358/lm393 work happy also with -3v. What's little critical are lf353s that I had bad experience with lower voltages. But think it was correct for this circuit to have them. Maybe you could use ls204 instead of LFs having less problems but think you need to solve first voltage converter/osc problem.

To make a try you can:
- disconnect 1n4148 from collector of osc transistor
- short source and drain of fet tis75
Then you can test is oscillations are present and charge pump works
Do this without other components like ICs to avoid too load and other problems.
If you get oscillation ---> problem is in tis75 polarization network
If you can't get oscillations ---> problem is maybe transistor gain (too low) or resitors connected on base of it (passive polarization network).

If you solve that problem you can get steady -5v using 79L05 and increasing negative rail voltage to at least -8volts (dropout is 3volts) or better with an ldo negative voltage regulator for -5 volts (usually dropout is under 1v).

Best regards,
Max

[Leto]

PERFECT...

sweet words: IT WORKS

Thanks to you Max, you pointed me in right direction...problem was with low inductivity of TX coil I used. I hooked the tx section to RX coil and used TX as recieve coil. --> and it worked.
Voltages are: +8V / -6.2V

Can not make depth tests yet as I have to make suitable coil first, original circuit is for 12kHz - now it is running at only 5.1kHz. But the coil is good enough to test discrimination:--> it is working too

I belive it will be quite decent detector with proper coil just need some time to make it..
Any idea how many turns 12kHz Tx coil needs? Any other information on old Tesoro coils?

Big thanks also to kurtie100, his friend and original remaker of this circuit.
Project is complete with NO mistakes at all (using proper coil).

P.S. I found two versions of Golden Sabre schematic on net, use the one kurtie100 posted in this thread.

[Unregistered]

Golden pcb looks OK ....
Wrong schematic drawing: after sens comp. 100k -> anode 1n4148 ?
Schematic some wrong resister and cap values.
In -5v power converter 47k = 4k7
In ground/all matal 150pF is 15 pf
Freq = 14Khz.
For ground balance potmeter adj. :
Make a 5 cm disc from epoxy (polyester) 2 comp., include some small iron in it (the stuf you cet from sawing iron, 2 to 3 tee spoons). adjust for not detecting is.
Check now that you can detect large silver coin !! ( to far adjustment and you will not find large silver !! Tray it out.

Good luck