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The housing is form an old comercial Italian radio system, really it is the right size,i just had to file a litle the sides. The problem is weight,it is extruded aluminium.I dont like very much the front panel i have made, i may change it .I am also waiting for some wire to make more coils experiments.
did you made your front panel from some software? looks really good.
Happy building,
regards,
Fred.
To draw a front panel and complete box I use SprintLayout5. If you like I can send to your mail drawing of front panel I made, which should be suitable for your housing of TGS. Maybe you need only to resize drawing a bit because dimensions of your housing. I think you reach very good performance with your DD22 coil and with DD28 your TGS will rocks. I also ordered some wire for my new DD28 coil, but I think that a 0,275 diameter wire is bit a better for this size of coil. And I agree with you that is nulling of coil with round centre is quite easiest than with flat sides of D shapes.
Hi all,
I cannot make at now double sided photo-process (cause I haven't suitable good material to do it)... so thinking at Vladimir's pcb design I've made some small correction to the original picture file...
I haven't made any board cause of small time... but I'll do soon I think.
I've cleaned some tracks and kinda of dirt (colors) from original file to better suit photo-process.
So... maybe that file could be useful to others too... then I post it here.
Hi Fred and congratulations for been another friend who tried TGS.
These days a havent to much time to experiment with new coils, to get more deep detection, but for shure TGS have a lot of thinks to show us.
Keep going and post your expirencies here.
Hi,
Here i post some pics of my TGS : i hope they can be usefull .The coil form is from a CRT monitor support, excellent as very strong, but a bit too small: diameter of the coil is only 22cm.With this coil i could get 25cm for 1 euro coin,same foir similar size of gold, and around 30cm for a big copper coin.
I will try to improve it a little and build a bigger coils, will post eventals (good) results
Happy building,
Fred.
Hi,
I use scope ... but any good AC millivoltemeter will do the job. Also Fred is right... you can measure at pin7 of LF353 for minimum voltage saving you the work of making yourself amplifier/millivoltmeter circuit.
It's your choice.
Best regards,
Max
Hi,
Max.
I have multimeter!So I have to put it again in AC 200mV and conect + to LF353 pin7 ?But where to conect -?And look again for 0.00?
I have just finish 12 OO coil like yours and will test soon,but wanna make and 255X137 like Ivconic's and test both on same field!I have already wind one but on 255X137 former and will null,seal and test it too because it is already made and shielded.
The thing that borders me is that now I remember that before one week I have made a short when trying to measure the voltage of the battery/I measure the V on bux where battery is conecting/i haven't noticed any diferances in behaviour,but please tell me can this happen?I mean can this short go without burned elements or I must be shore that something is burned?
Thanks
I am sure any voltmeter will do the job, you just have to put it in AC at the output of lf353 (pin 7) and you will find that the best nulling is very dificult to find,no dead spot at all!
and you will never get 0v if everything is normal...
Good luck,
Fred
Hi,
Thanks.
I will try!But because I am newbie where should I conect -?
+to LF353 pin 7.As I say I have only cheap,but I think its not too bad multimeter.
-Tiktak,
You connect the - of your multimeter to the - of the battery,and the + to pin 7 of lf 353.you will never get 0V , but try to go as low as possible.
I dont know...? I do not bother myself with device complexity, never. Usually main reason to build or not to build some device is if i have good pcb for it or not.... If i had pcb draws i would make any good detector by now....My main problem are pcb's and (eventually) som rare component, hard to find in shops.... Lobo...? If pcb draw exist for it...i will make it for sure...Long winter here in mountains....nothing to do Usually i am hyperactive, i dont sit at home 4-5 hours daily...but now...damn rain! Max... i'll send you pm now... Regards!
Hi,
Is it raining now in Serbia?Haven't snow arived yet?
What do you think because I couldn't finish so far to test,can I go prospecting in snow or device will not be able to work properly?
Ivconic how did you charge this lead-acid battery that we saw on pictures?
Did you use bought charger or you use something homemade?
When it rains you can smoke and work!
Thanks
-Tiktak,
You connect the - of your multimeter to the - of the battery,and the + to pin 7 of lf 353.you will never get 0V , but try to go as low as possible.
-Thanks, Nelson!
Regards,
Fred.
Thanks!
But conecting to - of the battery?Are you shore?You mean - on PCB?Or I should conect to - of the battery directly?
Excuse the stupidity of my question!
Hi,
Max.
I have multimeter!So I have to put it again in AC 200mV and conect + to LF353 pin7 ?But where to conect -?And look again for 0.00?
I have just finish 12 OO coil like yours and will test soon,but wanna make and 255X137 like Ivconic's and test both on same field!I have already wind one but on 255X137 former and will null,seal and test it too because it is already made and shielded.
The thing that borders me is that now I remember that before one week I have made a short when trying to measure the voltage of the battery/I measure the V on bux where battery is conecting/i haven't noticed any diferances in behaviour,but please tell me can this happen?I mean can this short go without burned elements or I must be shore that something is burned?
Thanks
Hi,
if you shorted the battery leads you haven't damaged circuit... but maybe battery...and maybe not (depending on battery type...some like gel-type are hard to damage even shorting leads... but don't do that).
That is true if you short leads at battery level. If short happened by some PCB track you could have burnt something on PCB. But if that happened you had seen it... smoke or something component explosion and the like.
So, if short was at battery level only, circuit is ok don't worry.
Thanks!
But conecting to - of the battery?Are you shore?You mean - on PCB?Or I should conect to - of the battery directly?
Excuse the stupidity of my question!
Same thing. Use negative of battery as reference or GND tracks/pads on PCB... they are (about) at same potential.
Hi,
Is it raining now in Serbia?Haven't snow arived yet?
What do you think because I couldn't finish so far to test,can I go prospecting in snow or device will not be able to work properly?
Ivconic how did you charge this lead-acid battery that we saw on pictures?
Did you use bought charger or you use something homemade?
When it rains you can smoke and work!
Thanks
Hi,
uhm... using on the snow... I see it hard with any VLF detector. The large conductive (snow, wet grass and soil-salts) signal from "snow"... even not thick layer of that will create problems.
Well... sometimes you could also have few influence by that... but that happens mostly with e.g. depth PIs not VLFs.
VLFs like TGS will suffer from large conductive layers. Then you have also to consider that frozen ground is really hard to dig for items...another and bigger problem about detecting on the snow.
BTW you can use my second schematic with LM317 and pot etc to charge gel-type batteries; I use it with lot of success from many years, just set output to 13.8V without battery... then connect it.
That's all... it's fully automatic, limited, cannot damage battery and will charge it in very few hours...depending on its status at charge start. Just check voltage... when reach 12,75V battery is fully charged... or you can leave attached to circuit as you want... no problems.
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