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  • Hi,

    Hi,
    Thanks Max.
    I will try build this circuit.I cant understand what is B1?I already have lm317T and will buy the rest of the parts tomorrow.But what is this B1.As I see I must conect + from ac/dc adaptrer to diode D1.
    Thanks
    See you soon.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by tiktak View Post
      Hi,
      Thanks Max.
      I will try build this circuit.I cant understand what is B1?I already have lm317T and will buy the rest of the parts tomorrow.But what is this B1.As I see I must conect + from ac/dc adaptrer to diode D1.
      Thanks
      See you soon.
      Hi,
      is a bridge rectifier... you need a 1A rated (or more) bridge like in the picture below. There are also different, bigger case , flat type also but signs are always the same.

      The wave signs go to the ac adaptor (or dc one, same thing you need 16volts or more there), then the + and - are connected to circuit and give you the positive and reference voltages.

      Best regards,
      Max
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • B1 is a bridge rectifier.
        You can buy it or build one as follow, good up to 1 amp.
        regards,
        Fred.
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • other common packages for 1A and more bridge rectifiers
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • how it works
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • Vladimir's PCB file

              Hi,
              I've made a board... but then realized it's wrong side ?

              So I think this is the right way for copperside.

              Best regards,
              Max
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Max View Post
                Hi,
                I've made a board... but then realized it's wrong side ?

                So I think this is the right way for copperside.

                Best regards,
                Max

                Hi,
                Another strange thing is that on this PCB there aren't the decoupling capacitors of 100nF I can see in Ivconic's schematic for TGSL... maybe cause of limited space.

                Are there decoupling in Goldy PCB ? Who knows ?... I remember not.

                It's a little puzzle!

                Kind regards,
                Max

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Max View Post
                  Hi,
                  Another strange thing is that on this PCB there aren't the decoupling capacitors of 100nF I can see in Ivconic's schematic for TGSL... maybe cause of limited space.

                  Are there decoupling in Goldy PCB ? Who knows ?... I remember not.

                  It's a little puzzle!

                  Kind regards,
                  Max
                  Hi Max,

                  Your work looks wery nice, wich program you use for drawing PCB's?
                  I'm not sure what is "decoupling" but maybe is this one located below 4024 as SMT one in Vladimir's version of TGSL PCB.

                  Regards,
                  Darko

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Darko View Post
                    Hi Max,

                    Your work looks wery nice, wich program you use for drawing PCB's?
                    I'm not sure what is "decoupling" but maybe is this one located below 4024 as SMT one in Vladimir's version of TGSL PCB.

                    Regards,
                    Darko
                    Hi,
                    the PCB design is Vladimir's work... not mine. I've just cleaned up the colors to make big contrast in print of it.

                    I think he used maybe sprint layout to do it.

                    Capacitors I mean are like C22 or C30 in Ivconic's schematic...at supply pins of op amps... of course one could choose to connect them on the copperside soldering on existing pads and gnd tracks... if needed.

                    Kind regards,
                    Max
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Max View Post
                      Hi,
                      the PCB design is Vladimir's work... not mine. I've just cleaned up the colors to make big contrast in print of it.

                      I think he used maybe sprint layout to do it.

                      Capacitors I mean are like C22 or C30 in Ivconic's schematic...at supply pins of op amps... of course one could choose to connect them on the copperside soldering on existing pads and gnd tracks... if needed.

                      Kind regards,
                      Max
                      Hi Max,

                      Schematic you posted here is with TL082. I use PCB drawing and schematic from PDF earlier posted here and this schematic is with LM308s. And all is ok with schematic and PCB drawings.

                      Regards,
                      Darko

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Darko View Post
                        Hi Max,

                        Schematic you posted here is with TL082. I use PCB drawing and schematic from PDF earlier posted here and this schematic is with LM308s. And all is ok with schematic and PCB drawings.

                        Regards,
                        Darko
                        Hi,
                        yes I think this is the last posted one by Ivconic that uses TL082. I've made the board... though I had a problem with orientation of printed film first time... so I've made a wrong board first time and a remade just few minutes ago... so I have it now.

                        As I see in your picture your PCB is different: does it work good ?

                        I'm thinking of making this last version... using the double op amp. but not TL082... I'll check some components and see the effects.

                        I think I'll find some good dual instead of 2 LM308 this time.

                        But I think I need some luck...

                        Best regards,
                        Max

                        Comment


                        • Hi

                          Originally posted by Fred View Post
                          -Tiktak,
                          You connect the - of your multimeter to the - of the battery,and the + to pin 7 of lf 353.you will never get 0V , but try to go as low as possible.

                          -Thanks, Nelson!

                          Regards,
                          Fred.
                          Hi,
                          I have tryed.Its a better then other method that I use because I dont have to solder and desolder wires again and again,BUT when I reach 150 mV I can see that its begin to work fine but yesterday I reach 00,7 and the sound disapiar?
                          Why?
                          Today I were amaized when reach 175 mV it sounds perfect only a little bit more sensitivity is nececery.
                          You told me that I have to reach around 50,0 mV so the coil will be nulled good.
                          Please explain
                          Thanks

                          Comment


                          • Hi,

                            Hi,
                            Max.
                            Thanks.

                            Comment


                            • Hi

                              Should I disconect LF353 pin 7 ,Because this time I just put one wire in IC soket for pin7 and try to null.

                              Comment


                              • Hi Tiktak,

                                I could get 50mv with oscilloscope,and VERY dificult, but it was before i put the shields.After results were not so good,with a multimenter you may have somewhat diferent readings,i think with 150mv it is very good.
                                Then sens pot should be working!
                                Fred

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