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  • Originally posted by Max View Post
    Hi,
    yes I think this is the last posted one by Ivconic that uses TL082. I've made the board... though I had a problem with orientation of printed film first time... so I've made a wrong board first time and a remade just few minutes ago... so I have it now.

    As I see in your picture your PCB is different: does it work good ?

    I'm thinking of making this last version... using the double op amp. but not TL082... I'll check some components and see the effects.

    I think I'll find some good dual instead of 2 LM308 this time.

    But I think I need some luck...

    Best regards,
    Max
    Well, I had problem with placing commponents, mispleced some of them. I correct already that. Now machine works, but in DISC mode no response at all. Maybe I have problem with FET's again. I don't know. Now I use 2n4393 and maybe some of them not functioning properly. I will check that. I tested LF351 instead of LM308 as you sugested and for me, seems there are no differencies but I cannot say until TGSL become fully operational. I hope, my TGSL will be operational very soon. In any case I learn something new every day here about electronics and my English are better and better.

    P.S. I think latest Vladimir's version of PCB is with 308s.

    Regards,
    Darko

    Comment


    • Charger

      TikTak i am using my handmade charger.
      This one allows charging various batteries. To adjust for given battery you must put proper zener diode there. For 12v/1.3Ah battery i usually put ZD13.
      Also charging current can be adjusted with R5. I put there 22R. But this mostly depends of used transformer. Some small transformers wont allow proper charging if R5 is lower than 30R..
      Led diodes are there to indicate charging state....
      This charger automatically stop charging when battery is fully charged.You do not to pay attention on charging time, just connect and forget!
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • Originally posted by ivconic View Post
        TikTak i am using my handmade charger.
        This one allows charging various batteries. To adjust for given battery you must put proper zener diode there. For 12v/1.3Ah battery i usually put ZD13.
        Also charging current can be adjusted with R5. I put there 22R. But this mostly depends of used transformer. Some small transformers wont allow proper charging if R5 is lower than 30R..
        Led diodes are there to indicate charging state....
        This charger automatically stop charging when battery is fully charged.You do not to pay attention on charging time, just connect and forget!
        Hi Ivconic,
        about Vladimir's designs ...what's the best of them... is the one with 308s or the one that uses TL082... ?

        I found the tl082 one pretty small board and made really good using photo-process and a ultra-thin glassfiber board... but there aren't pads for the decoupling capacitors.

        I've made the smaller board with TL082... and don't mounted yet...but I can also make the other board... what do you think is better to build?

        Kind regards,
        Max

        Comment


        • Hi Max,

          I remember Ap saying one of the small boards was giving problems, i dont know wich one, but i think there was coupling problems because os closers and smaller tracks.
          Fred.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Fred View Post
            Hi Max,

            I remember Ap saying one of the small boards was giving problems, i dont know wich one, but i think there was coupling problems because os closers and smaller tracks.
            Fred.
            Hi,
            if I'm not wrong Ap referred that Goldy PCB ver 3.2 have problems due to noise (bleeping at output)... not about Vladimir's designs.

            Anyway, thanks for your reminder.

            I've planned of making goldy too... but at this moment I haven't suitable material for double sided photo-process... so I'm playing with that sinlge sided board for now.

            Kind regards,
            Max

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Max View Post
              Hi,
              if I'm not wrong Ap referred that Goldy PCB ver 3.2 have problems due to noise (bleeping at output)... not about Vladimir's designs.

              Anyway, thanks for your reminder.

              I've planned of making goldy too... but at this moment I haven't suitable material for double sided photo-process... so I'm playing with that sinlge sided board for now.

              Kind regards,
              Max
              Hi Max,

              What could be a reason for non working TGSL in DISC mode? What should be I check?

              Regards,
              Darko

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Darko View Post
                Hi Max,

                What could be a reason for non working TGSL in DISC mode? What should be I check?

                Regards,
                Darko
                Hi,
                if it works in all metal and not in disc problem is maybe at disc signal to gate of fet.

                When you put it in all-metal the disc channel fet get its gate signal from the delay network (resistance + capacitor) that is just a few shifted from geb sampling signal due to the RC network.

                Thus I think that maybe your disc signal have something wrong:
                - check the section of LF353 near disc pot expecially capacitor value there
                - check also at LM393 after the pot that actually drive the fet's gate

                If you have scope you can look at signal directly ...otherwise just check components and connection/solder joints for mistakes.

                Best regards,
                Max
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • Max i really dont know yet. Havent finished small Vladimir's pcb. But refering TL081/082 i can tell you pretty sure that TL082 will work just fine. We debated in the past about TL081. Once i claimed it will work. Later when put on Goldy, TL081 gave me a lot of falses....I was absolute sure that TL081 cant replace LM308. But later again i founded out those falses are not due TL081 replaced LM308. So again i retreived TL081 on Goldy pcb and now is working excellent. Actually all falses came from later stage due resistor mismatch; the one 2K2 instead 33K. Later i experimented a while and found 8K2 is most suitable there. Maintain good audio volume yet great stabillity. Also allows me to use 8 ohm speaker, since 16 ohms speaker is hard to obtain.10K instead will present best compromise and will eleiminate all possible falses in audio. Actually the rest of device is pretty "calm" and stabile. 90% of falses came from that resistor mismatch.
                  Now, with TL081 on LM308's place, device is working excellent and i dont see differences at all. Same depth, same performances. After lot of troubles i was right from the begining; TL081/082 can replace LM308 here in this particular design. So answer should be YES you can finish Vladimir's pcb. If some problem occurs later, those will not be due TL082 for sure.
                  Actually, Darko reported here good experiences with Vladimir's pcb. So only difference between his and your pcb is just in LM308/TL082....
                  I am sure it will work very good.
                  Regards!

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Max View Post
                    Hi,
                    if I'm not wrong Ap referred that Goldy PCB ver 3.2 have problems due to noise (bleeping at output)... not about Vladimir's designs.

                    Anyway, thanks for your reminder.

                    I've planned of making goldy too... but at this moment I haven't suitable material for double sided photo-process... so I'm playing with that sinlge sided board for now.

                    Kind regards,
                    Max

                    Hehe! I had simillar problem Max! You know what? You do bottom side as usually. Than draw manually top side. It is much simplified....few lines...not much of drawing...That's how i done mine pcb's...

                    Comment


                    • Hi

                      Thanks Ivconic I will try this.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by ivconic View Post
                        Max i really dont know yet. Havent finished small Vladimir's pcb. But refering TL081/082 i can tell you pretty sure that TL082 will work just fine. We debated in the past about TL081. Once i claimed it will work. Later when put on Goldy, TL081 gave me a lot of falses....I was absolute sure that TL081 cant replace LM308. But later again i founded out those falses are not due TL081 replaced LM308. So again i retreived TL081 on Goldy pcb and now is working excellent. Actually all falses came from later stage due resistor mismatch; the one 2K2 instead 33K. Later i experimented a while and found 8K2 is most suitable there. Maintain good audio volume yet great stabillity. Also allows me to use 8 ohm speaker, since 16 ohms speaker is hard to obtain.10K instead will present best compromise and will eleiminate all possible falses in audio. Actually the rest of device is pretty "calm" and stabile. 90% of falses came from that resistor mismatch.
                        Now, with TL081 on LM308's place, device is working excellent and i dont see differences at all. Same depth, same performances. After lot of troubles i was right from the begining; TL081/082 can replace LM308 here in this particular design. So answer should be YES you can finish Vladimir's pcb. If some problem occurs later, those will not be due TL082 for sure.
                        Actually, Darko reported here good experiences with Vladimir's pcb. So only difference between his and your pcb is just in LM308/TL082....
                        I am sure it will work very good.
                        Regards!

                        Hi Ivconic,
                        yes I think I'll made it good... I wanna experiment with tlc2262 too there instead of 308 and see what happens. I have lot of tl072 and tl082 ics so can test also different brand.

                        I think will be ok.

                        About double side pcb... yes I've made too that way in the past... but now I'm using single sided boards and haven't prepared a double sided one with photoresist film just on one face... so I have to do if I wanna make your way... by hand on top layer... but I'm too lazy to spray that stuff at now... then dry it etc ... also I haven't any fresh resist can and must buy one etc... so I choose single side stuff.

                        Best regards,
                        Max

                        Comment


                        • I remember when i finished my TGS i had LM308, but when (and only when) the coil was disconnected this IC was getting a bit hot.then i changed to tl082 and everything went fine.
                          regards,
                          Fred.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Max View Post
                            Hi Ivconic,
                            Originally posted by Max View Post
                            yes I think I'll made it good... I wanna experiment with tlc2262 too there instead of 308 and see what happens. I have lot of tl072 and tl082 ics so can test also different brand.

                            I think will be ok.

                            About double side pcb... yes I've made too that way in the past... but now I'm using single sided boards and haven't prepared a double sided one with photoresist film just on one face... so I have to do if I wanna make your way... by hand on top layer... but I'm too lazy to spray that stuff at now... then dry it etc ... also I haven't any fresh resist can and must buy one etc... so I choose single side stuff.

                            Best regards,
                            Max


                            Hey Max, dont need to spray it at all. Use nail polish (or whateevr you call it there) from your spouse!
                            My wife wanted to kill me several times
                            Whenever i need ultra fast....to draw a line or two, or to protect top Cu layer i always use her nail polish (whatever color but not transparent)...

                            It is absolute resistive on acid and peroxide mix, later when etching...

                            Comment


                            • I am usually using a pin, by immerse it into nail polish and with a pation draw lines and points. You have to do that skillful and fast cose polish is drying fast too. You can draw very thin lines using this method, only need some preliminary skill. Try it.
                              It is the fastest way to prepare pcb or just choosen piece of pcb for further process.
                              After years of doing this i evolved quite method dealing with nail polish. Also made special neat pin from injection sets.
                              So as you see my wife have a lot of problems with me....

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by ivconic View Post

                                Hey Max, dont need to spray it at all. Use nail polish (or whateevr you call it there) from your spouse!
                                My wife wanted to kill me several times
                                Whenever i need ultra fast....to draw a line or two, or to protect top Cu layer i always use her nail polish (whatever color but not transparent)...

                                It is absolute resistive on acid and peroxide mix, later when etching...
                                Hi Ivconic,
                                interesting tip about kind of ink to use... but you misunderstud my problem:
                                spray I mean is not common varnish stuff... but photoresist varnish... that I can spray on e.g. my double sided boards to make them sensitive to UV rays and so make my own custom sensitized PCB stuff.

                                I've made them for years... but also bought ready to use stuff like pre-sensitized boards... sometimes they are really time-saving but cause these last ones costs I've always made my own using spray. It's really easy at the end and you can make e.g. 30-40 in really few time... then stock the right way and use for years.

                                My problem now is that a single can of this stuff costs so much... (and BTW smell so bad) that cause I'm also lazy... I cannot made at now !

                                So switched to single sided pcb ... cause I had 50-60 single side presensitized boards handy...

                                Cost of it now it's becoming embarassing:

                                look at http://www.rs-components.co.nz/1/881...OTORESIST.html

                                a 200mL can costs $32.30 !

                                I think they at RS have sense of humor... have I to pay 32.30usd for then making all the work on pcb... the smell ...etc etc if I can find large presens-boards for a fraction of 32.30usd , 2 or 3 dollars !
                                I'm lazy... but they are crazy! That's what I say.

                                Best regards,
                                Max
                                Attached Files

                                Comment

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