TESORO GOLDEN SABRE

[Max]

TO GET MORE CLEAR, DO YOU MEAN THIS CONFIGURATION SHOW ON THE PICTURE?

BEST REGARDS

NELSON

Hi,
yes it is.

Best regards,
Max

[nelson]

Thanks Max
Nelson

Hi,
yes it is.

Best regards,
Max

[Unregistered]

HI

Nelson!
What are the results afther nuling?
I am working now too!
Thanks

[nelson]

I dont have the time by now, so this will be make sooner.
Regards
Nelson

Nelson!
What are the results afther nuling?
I am working now too!
Thanks

[Geto]

To nelson

Hi,
How did you conect the switches?I still cant get that!

[nelson]

Hi Geto, here i m sending a copy of a good job made by Ivconic, that shows graphicaly how to connect pots and swithches.
Regards
Nelson

Hi,
How did you conect the switches?I still cant get that!

[Geto]

To nelson

Hi,
I saw those,but can't understand there is one more W point near batt-, that is unused?

And from second picture:
lets use L1 for left and L2 for right winding!
I have to conect the two faradey shields on the windings and the two windings ends and then conect this point with faradey shield on the cable and one of the cores(black)!
The red core to L1 winding start?And blue core to L2 start?
Thanks



I will make coil like this for first time!

[Unregistered]

hi

Can you tell me have this TESORO pinpoint?

[nelson]

Hi,
I saw those,but can't understand there is one more W point near batt-, that is unused?
YES

And from second picture:
lets use L1 for left and L2 for right winding!
FOLLOW THE SAME WINDING DIRECTION

I have to conect the two faradey shields on the windings and the two windings ends and then conect this point with faradey shield on the cable and one of the cores(black)!
JUST FOLLOW THE PICTURE. BOTH FARADAY SHIELDS ARE CONNECTED TOGETHER.
The red core to L1 winding start?And blue core to L2 start?
STAR LEADS GOES TO RX AND TX ON THE BOARD, END LEADS GOES TO SHIELD
Regards

Nelson

[Geto]

hi

Hi,
Sorry!
I will try to be more clear!
I have saw those two pictures.But think that there is still something missing!
Thats why I ask.

And for those two W points:
There is one going in 2x3 switch and other that is not conected at all???
Whats is its purpuse?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
JUST FOLLOW THE PICTURE. BOTH FARADAY SHIELDS ARE CONNECTED TOGETHER.
The red core to L1 winding start?And blue core to L2 start?
--------------------------------------------------------------
And the END-s of L1 and L2 with them ?And then going in cable shield and black core?
Thanks

[porkluvr]

What next?

W?
I hope being brain dead is not contagious. I'd better not read this thread anymore, just in case it is.

[ivconic]

Make it simple!

" Today i finish coils:
TX coil is 101 turns, 0.25 mm wire, 5.6 mH, resistance 26.2 ohms.
RX coil is 107 turns, 0.25 mm wire, 6.45 mH, resistance 27.4 ohms.
Diameter of both coils is 19 cms."
??? Something isn't right here? Are you used round former with diamm.19cms?
When i used round former 22cm diamm. and 110 wind. of 0.25mm(0.28mm) at the
end i gained from 21-23 ohms (dont remember exactly) resistances..???
Inductances were approx. 6.x uH...(also dont remeber)...
According to your datas i am absolutelly positive that you used 0.25mm wire
with varnish on. Which means that your wire is thinner....arround 0.22/0.23mm.
Only in this case you can get such high resistances!
Right now, i am making my coils very succesfully without paying to much
attention on exact datas; no. of turns and diamm.
I am using D shape with 21cm longer diamm. Wound 140 windings for TX and 145-150
windings for RX. Resistances are arround 20-22ohms, dependable of how good are
windings constrained. On both coils Al tape applied to form Faraday cage...
Rest you know according to posted sketch.
I pay a lot of attention on nulling coils, usually takes 10-15 minutes to null
those very accuratelly, without scope or any other instrument. Just connected to
G.Sabre and using nickel coin (1cm diamm.); swinging constantly over coil and
adjusting null relying on audio. The best depth (in All Metal mode) also means
best possible nulling.(it showed to me as simpliest method so far, also most
accurate). Usually it can detect that coin at 36cm in the air, so i know when
nulling is done.
When finishing, later check it again with ferrite rod to gain
absolute no detection on it.Not even a "tic" on it. When all finished, i usually
use "super glue" to stiff coils to each other, also both to housing. When dry,
than use teflon-based, two-component mass to fill it up good, and let it for
10 hours to dry. And that's it!
Oh, i forgot to say; GEB trimmer should be somewhere on the middle when nulled.
Later when tried first time on real field, i usually readjust GEB trimmer a bit.
It is usually 1-2mm up or down from origin...not to much! Just about to loose
ocassionall "tic-tic" on highly mineralised soil....Best method so far. At least
for me.
I do not pay to much attention on gained frequency, but it is usually from 13.xx
to 14.xx kHz....
Point is not to obey everything you see on this forum, but to make detector which
will work as best as it can be....So minor jitters are more than usuall from one to
another device....
I already made 3 G.Sabre's and 2 S.Sabres....Satisfied much with all those...
Do not intend to change "brand" for longer period. It showed as excellent detector
as hand-made...!
One hint more:
Good coil housing is huge problem! I tried this and that....finally i have
universal solution! Plastic circle record holder from old turntable!!!
Best housing ever!
It must be some special plastic alloy, since it is light yet very hard!
So good to use as coil housing...i havent seen better solution so far!
Now i can make coils in series...as standard! Ha! Good idea!

[nelson]

Hi Ivconic.
Ok, yes each coil is 19 cms in diameter and total form is to be round.
Or when you said 19 cms diameters means that both coils shoul measure 19 cms in diameter?
By now with this configuration i can only detect a 1.7 diameter gold ring at 8 to 10 cms.
The TX coil performance is intermitent and i think this is due to a short circuit with one TX lead with the shield, so i have to check both coils.
Also,what are the functions of those two pots on the board, how i do calibrate it?
You also toll something about to forget ground connection for RX coil on the board.
In advance many thanks.
Regards
Nelson

" Today i finish coils:
TX coil is 101 turns, 0.25 mm wire, 5.6 mH, resistance 26.2 ohms.
RX coil is 107 turns, 0.25 mm wire, 6.45 mH, resistance 27.4 ohms.
Diameter of both coils is 19 cms."
??? Something isn't right here? Are you used round former with diamm.19cms?
When i used round former 22cm diamm. and 110 wind. of 0.25mm(0.28mm) at the
end i gained from 21-23 ohms (dont remember exactly) resistances..???
Inductances were approx. 6.x uH...(also dont remeber)...
According to your datas i am absolutelly positive that you used 0.25mm wire
with varnish on. Which means that your wire is thinner....arround 0.22/0.23mm.
Only in this case you can get such high resistances!
Right now, i am making my coils very succesfully without paying to much
attention on exact datas; no. of turns and diamm.
I am using D shape with 21cm longer diamm. Wound 140 windings for TX and 145-150
windings for RX. Resistances are arround 20-22ohms, dependable of how good are
windings constrained. On both coils Al tape applied to form Faraday cage...
Rest you know according to posted sketch.
I pay a lot of attention on nulling coils, usually takes 10-15 minutes to null
those very accuratelly, without scope or any other instrument. Just connected to
G.Sabre and using nickel coin (1cm diamm.); swinging constantly over coil and
adjusting null relying on audio. The best depth (in All Metal mode) also means
best possible nulling.(it showed to me as simpliest method so far, also most
accurate). Usually it can detect that coin at 36cm in the air, so i know when
nulling is done.
When finishing, later check it again with ferrite rod to gain
absolute no detection on it.Not even a "tic" on it. When all finished, i usually
use "super glue" to stiff coils to each other, also both to housing. When dry,
than use teflon-based, two-component mass to fill it up good, and let it for
10 hours to dry. And that's it!
Oh, i forgot to say; GEB trimmer should be somewhere on the middle when nulled.
Later when tried first time on real field, i usually readjust GEB trimmer a bit.
It is usually 1-2mm up or down from origin...not to much! Just about to loose
ocassionall "tic-tic" on highly mineralised soil....Best method so far. At least
for me.
I do not pay to much attention on gained frequency, but it is usually from 13.xx
to 14.xx kHz....
Point is not to obey everything you see on this forum, but to make detector which
will work as best as it can be....So minor jitters are more than usuall from one to
another device....
I already made 3 G.Sabre's and 2 S.Sabres....Satisfied much with all those...
Do not intend to change "brand" for longer period. It showed as excellent detector
as hand-made...!
One hint more:
Good coil housing is huge problem! I tried this and that....finally i have
universal solution! Plastic circle record holder from old turntable!!!
Best housing ever!
It must be some special plastic alloy, since it is light yet very hard!
So good to use as coil housing...i havent seen better solution so far!
Now i can make coils in series...as standard! Ha! Good idea!

[Geto]

hi

I am not happy from your words!!'
Its hurts?Why you think that my brain is dead!I can make you feel ba too!
Is this your wish?I am asking so much questions,because I am only for 3 months in electronics?!?!?!!?How can I knew those things????Thats why I ask to learn something new!

WWWWWWWW????

Or you are blind or I am there are two points that are marked with W on this picture!So .....

W?
I hope being brain dead is not contagious. I'd better not read this thread anymore, just in case it is.

[Unregistered]

To nelson

Hi,
You have make better results,but this machine should be capable of much more!
This distance can be achived even with magnum metal locator!
I can't give opinion,but the problem is realy in the coil nuling!
Thanks for sharing your expiriance!