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Hi,
Max.
Unfortunatly when I try to seal the coil it moovs and now I cant get the same performance!!I were geting 27cm for I euro coin with TL072 insteed of 353!!
And now cant get the same.
How did you null again Rx when shields are aplyed?
You told me that I have to null without shields!But when I shield them how you find that null again?
I were playing with both and just found a very good spot!
Sorry I dont have 3240.I have 3130 and 3140 ,but they are both single!
I will buy tomorrow 3240,but have to finish that coil,so can compare and be shore that I get the same coils position.
Thanks
Hi,
Max.
Unfortunatly when I try to seal the coil it moovs and now I cant get the same performance!!I were geting 27cm for I euro coin with TL072 insteed of 353!!
And now cant get the same.
How did you null again Rx when shields are aplyed?
You told me that I have to null without shields!But when I shield them how you find that null again?
I were playing with both and just found a very good spot!
Sorry I dont have 3240.I have 3130 and 3140 ,but they are both single!
I will buy tomorrow 3240,but have to finish that coil,so can compare and be shore that I get the same coils position.
Thanks
Hi,
check the price first for 3240... seems that in some places it costs like GOLD in weight! Don't know why... maybe cause is sometimes hard to find and required by some costly apparatus (it's an instrumentation op. amp.).
"You told me that I have to null without shields!But when I shield them how you find that null again?"
Yes I told you cause it's easy to try first without shields... cause you can e.g. modify (e.g. cutting away) the excess of turns to get right frequency etc.
But then you have to apply shields and re-null everything for a real "field-coil", where shield is mandatory.
Re-null as you already made after shielding and connecting shields to gnd as explained by Ivconic.
Don't worry you'll find a good null easier now that you have understand how.
BTW I strongly think now that GSabre could be pushed, with some tricks, at more with DD22, like bandido... and even in the ground.
Don't know why but something say me that I haven't saw anything but just a part of its real potential.
It's very stable ! Or not ?
It's a rock... like bandidoII with right components... but here design supplied to old fashioned and noisy op. amps... and if you put some newer you'll gain more and more stability.
It's really good designed even if it uses old fets !
I'm thinking of pushing 10V on the positive rail to see what happens.
Hi,
Max.
Its not expencive around 1,2 euro.
I will try!
But still dont understand how to conect when nulling with shields!
I have to conect Tx to pcb and Rx to multimeter trough 1k resistor and 15n cap.But waht about the shield?Should they be conected and if so where?
Thanks
Hi,
Max.
Its not expencive around 1,2 euro.
I will try!
But still dont understand how to conect when nulling with shields!
I have to conect Tx to pcb and Rx to multimeter trough 1k resistor and 15n cap.But waht about the shield?Should they be conected and if so where?
Thanks
Hi,
to TX side GND on PCB. You have to connect both shields using two distinct wires at gnd point at tx lead in searchcoil. Then that unique wire goes to the TX PCB PAD.
After nulling you have to reconnect rx leads as before. If you swap rx-tx (during shielding phase) relative orientation you'll try to swap rx leads to gain correct phase as you've previously done before.
If you'll use foil use a roll say 2cm wide and don't overlap too much, but cover well and uniform.
Hi,
Max.
What did you use to fix the coils still?
I am using epoxy resin,but not setisfy!Hard to work with~~~!!!
Hi,
I always use epoxy. It's the only thing to use if you want make a real search coil. Almost all commercial vlf coils have it inside to seal and fix windings.
You can keep your nulling position easy and then obtaining a very rigid structure.
There are lot of instruction about it in some older projects documentation.
Already discussed many times here.
Hi tiktak,
when you mix the components you have a fluid state of resin that have an about fixed duration (depends on products, but usually several minutes).
During this time you can fill the wounds with the fluid, that way you haven't to use any strong force so that you'll lose the alignment of them.
The trick is mixing a few epoxy and start covering from the outer shape, leaving the central area as last thing.
Then before seal the central part of overlap of the two windings you can recheck for right null (if there was some movement) and renull also.
Then seal a point at a time, till you seal it all keeping the nulling !
Not so difficault if you have time, patience and goodwill.
Hi,
Max.
I will use this method.
But the interesting think is that when I null now and conect again I dont have good performance,but when I separate the windings the md give good sound??
Why?
The null should be the best point,and this is almost 1 cm away?!?!?
I havent time today to buy 3240,but tomorrow will for shore!
Thanks
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