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  • Originally posted by nelson View Post
    Ok Ivconic. My problem is that my TGS with TL081, runs fine, but i can not get more than 22 cms for a 1 cms coin on air.
    So has i understand, i can get a few more deep just by adding a trimmer on pcb instead of pot for sens.. Is this correct?

    I just wanna make shure if this will benifit my actual performance.

    Regards

    Nelson


    Yes Nelson i was thinking to use shielded cable to "Sence." knob....but from the other hand, what use of Sence. knob anyway? If TL081 are used, only way to make device works is to lower Sensitivity at almost lowest point and keep it "fixed"...So better to use trimmer,adjust it and forget it for good...
    This doesnt affect sensitivity and depths much....maybe 1-2cm lost overall...i can live with this...can you?
    Hi Nelson,
    I think not. He said that trimmer is required to keep TL081 quiet enough... avoiding erratic beeps. You don't gain depth using the trimmer, just tune for stable operations: that's the sens you have to use then ahead (fixed) to avoid troubles.

    Kind regards,
    Max

    Comment


    • Ok, thanks Max. So i ll let it has it, cause is working good to me.
      Thanks

      Regards

      Nelson



      Originally posted by Max View Post
      Hi Nelson,
      I think not. He said that trimmer is required to keep TL081 quiet enough... avoiding erratic beeps. You don't gain depth using the trimmer, just tune for stable operations: that's the sens you have to use then ahead (fixed) to avoid troubles.

      Kind regards,
      Max

      Comment


      • READ THIS!

        Minelab CO. READ THIS !

        Same supplier sold some devices with prices:

        -Minelab X-Terra 70 + cc Coil = 850e
        -Minelab Explorer SE + coil = 1090e
        -White's DFX + 2 coils = 1700e
        -Minelab Sovereign GT + coil = 960e

        How about this? Ha?

        Bull****!

        Tesoro Golden Sabre Light is performing (right now) MUCH,MUCH BETTER ON COINS than mentioned models and to make it with 27cm coil it will cost me arround 100 euros....so...WHY THE HECK I SHOULD WASTE SO MUCH MONEY ON EXPENSIVE TOYS!?

        I am enthusiastic about detectors,further i would like to have collections as Carl having....So if have chance to buy those by fair prices...than i will!
        Otherwise i dont give a **** about those....especially i would not give money to some local fraud...better ask some of my friends worldvide to buy it on e-bay for me and later send by post....Isnt that true?

        Yesterday, man came to me with broken Musketeert Advantage...It was not broken actually but mailfunctioning due smal crack on pcb...
        When fixing it later i performed few tests with it. Was very disapointed with its performances...Musketeer Colt i had in the past was much better!
        This Advantage comparing to handmade TGSL turned to be funny toy!
        It could detect 2cm nickel coin at 22cm in the air, while TGSL can detect same coin at 36cm in the air...When owner saw my tests in the air...he was deeply confused and disapointed....few months ago he wasted 560e for Advantage...at the same local supplier here in Serbia...

        Who is stupid here? Who is fraud? You can easilly check my claims, make TGSL and coil i described and later compare it with some "original"...
        Regards!

        Comment


        • Nelson (Mandel)a brot....


          Nelson, Max already answered correctly on your question about trimmer...

          "My problem is that my TGS with TL081, runs fine, but i can not get more than 22
          cms for a 1 cms coin on air."

          Yes, you came to very important point where you have to take problem of making coils
          more seriously.
          It is obvious that you are not beginner any more, now is time to go one step further.
          First, to be awared of full TGS performances, YOU MUST obtain LM308 and put on TL081 place.
          Find 2 of LM308 and replace those TL081...just for a while. You will notice some
          differences. You'll detect same coin at 24-25cm than...Next is to start making another
          coil. You already have one coil ready and it will serve you as reference to make another-
          better... Be sure that LF353 is at front end for now. Do not replace it with other...
          Another important thing is 1M resistor...KT315 pointed me to it. After installing it
          parallel to diode i gained much better performances...If you didnt previously, now is time
          to solder it over 1N4148...look at my last schematic, you have everything there...
          Next is to make coil i described last here; 255x137mm;

          Wire gauge is 0.25mm (0.28mm with varnish)
          For TX - 100w = 21.2ohms = 5.61mH, when constrained it should read 5.99mH
          With this coil frequency should be 14.6KHz +/-200Hz

          For RX - 105w = 23.4ohms = 6.18mH, when constrained it should read 6.55mH
          These are exact datas of coil i made. Coil is working very good. 2cm coin at 36cm distance,
          but most imortant is fact, detector is calm and stabile, no false signals at all.
          Discrimination is PERFECT.

          I dont see why your results are not better? You should pay much of attention on device
          itself. Capacitors i used are all pollyprophilene (any syntax error?)...except those
          few with picofarards values..
          At RX there is 15nF = not changed, also P.P.type..
          At TX also original values = not changed, also P.P. type...
          All resistors are 1/8w,5%....all original values, no changes at all.
          For example, if you cant find 24k than use 2 of 12k in serie, also for 200k use 2 of 100k in
          serie...etc.etc.

          Diodes are all 1N4148, ZD iz 4V7 (not 4V3)....Fets are J107. Transistors are as noted on sch...
          Today i replaced 2N2907 with 2N3906...same, no differences...or maybe (i am sugestive) 2N3906
          works even a bit better?? I am not sure, might be subjective...


          So, Nelson and others...it is not clear to me why cant you gain better performances...?
          Except Max! I think only Max reported very good results also....Anybody else?
          Leto is conversant constructor...Hey Leto, what are your results? Come here friend! Help us...

          I would like to help you more Nelson! But i really gave here most accurate datas.No more secrets.
          Everything i posted is true.
          The only reason of average results could be that you missed something in your work? What?
          I would like to know also...
          Forgot to mention nulling! Again and again; nulling is probably most important step in making
          good coil...I done this so many times...again and again.It is not easy to null some coils at all!?
          While,at the other hand, some coils turns to be very easy to null!? 80% of my coils i nulled
          very easy, but 20% of coils (same data) gave me pretty hard time and a lot of pain to null them?
          Why is that so? I guess minor differences from one to another, eventual drifts etc...

          Last...i have hunch that if we use thicker wire than 0.25..but strictly on larger diammeters
          formers...let's say over 24cm...than it will be better to use 0.3mm wire than 0.25mm.
          I guess Max already pointed on this. I havent try yet but intend to do asap.
          So i have hunch that we can gain even more depth with larger diammeter and thicker wire..?!
          Intend to make 32cm coil with 0.3mm wire these days. When finished i will report here results.

          Nelson, here is photo of coil i already described ....Regards!
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • GS

            First thank you Porkluvr for reply and for answering to some of my questions. Ill try to be specific as much as i can. Im building a Tesoro Golden Sabre from shematic that i found here on forum.
            Im interested in the walues of elements on that shematic, and walues of elements on PCB if you know what i mean by this, i sure hope so haha.
            Walue of 470ohm on shematic at tant.10mf on PCB is 470kohm. R3,3kohm on Shematic and on PCB is 3,9kohm, well im little cofused by that so if i explain you well plz some help here? Im also interested is -5V must be even if sonde is off, because when i turn off sonde -5V disapiere? And if there are some other diferences betwen Sheamtic and PCB plz let me know. And i apologise for poor speling but as i said my english is a little bad.
            Reagrds Dino

            Comment


            • -5V on your detector?

              Originally posted by dino View Post
              Walue of 470ohm on shematic at tant.10mf on PCB is 470kohm. R3,3kohm on Shematic and on PCB is 3,9kohm, well im little cofused by that so if i explain you well plz some help here? Im also interested is -5V must be even if sonde is off, because when i turn off sonde -5V disapiere? Reagrds Dino
              Dino - you should read what Ivconic and Max have already talked about, AND, view the updates and corrections to the schematic and the PCB layout diagrams that have been posted! Start on page 26, and work backwards - or start at the beginning. I haven't built GS circuit (I spend waay too much time analyzing), but maybe I can help.

              The 470Ω is wrong and should be 470KΩ. This will set "time on" for the battery test at about five seconds, with a good battery.

              I can think of only one 3k3Ω on the GS, in the DISC circuit? This resistor determines the "zero Discrimination" (fully CCW DISC pot position) point and should 3k3Ω AFAIK. (As Far As I Know). If you used 3k9Ω, it should not stop your project from working, so worry about other more important things first.

              http://www.babelfish.altavista.com/tr (Italian to English?) sonde=probe (probe=detector)

              I do not know how you have your battery and power circuits wired, but ideally, all voltages should go to zero when you turn detector OFF (not counting the battery voltage). Off is off. - But, why do you even have -5V on your detector? It should be about -6.5V, I think. The closer to -8V, the better. +8V, and -6.5V (or close to -6.5V) are the positive and negative rails. Look at your inverter circuit and make sure that you do not have two 47kΩ resistors where there should be two 4k7Ω. That was old mistake on schematic. (CD4024-12 should be (2x) 4k7Ω)

              Go start at beginning of this thread and look at diagrams that have been posted. Read what Ivconic and Max have written, (and others, too). they may have already answered some of your questions!

              Comment


              • LM308

                You can buy on ebay. There is a great lot of LM308. Be sure of the payment method accepted by the buyer. 10 for US$ 9 + shipping cost US$ 5.

                http://cgi.ebay.com/10-PCS-N-S-LM308...QQcmdZViewItem
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • Originally posted by dino View Post
                  First thank you Porkluvr for reply and for answering to some of my questions. Ill try to be specific as much as i can. Im building a Tesoro Golden Sabre from shematic that i found here on forum.
                  Im interested in the walues of elements on that shematic, and walues of elements on PCB if you know what i mean by this, i sure hope so haha.
                  Walue of 470ohm on shematic at tant.10mf on PCB is 470kohm. R3,3kohm on Shematic and on PCB is 3,9kohm, well im little cofused by that so if i explain you well plz some help here? Im also interested is -5V must be even if sonde is off, because when i turn off sonde -5V disapiere? And if there are some other diferences betwen Sheamtic and PCB plz let me know. And i apologise for poor speling but as i said my english is a little bad.
                  Reagrds Dino
                  Hi,
                  here you can see the latest corrections I've made. Yes the 3k3 on schematic is 3k9 on PCB, the right value is 3k3, though if you use 3k9 circuit works too, as porkluvr stated.

                  About -5... actually is -6.2 .. -6.4 with original components. If you use different that use more current you have a decrease... but voltage converter in GSabre is more efficient than e.g. Bandido due to the higher frequency...f/2 means 7Khz and more, so it's not a problem e.g. having some little current waste of few mA more due to diff. components.

                  You'll lose -V rail if disconnect coil: normal. It's so cause you'll lose oscillations so f/2 frequency input signal at 4024.

                  Follow schematic values and will be fine with it.

                  Best regards,
                  Max



                  If you remove coil you
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • Hi.
                    Has sent PCB TGSL Ivconic, and aft_72005.
                    Please put on a forum.
                    I have big request if there is who has photos PCB King Cobra, or Royal Sabre.
                    I want to draw PCB these machines.
                    Best regards.
                    Vladimir.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Unregistered View Post
                      Hi.
                      Has sent PCB TGSL Ivconic, and aft_72005.
                      Please put on a forum.
                      I have big request if there is who has photos PCB King Cobra, or Royal Sabre.
                      I want to draw PCB these machines.
                      Best regards.
                      Vladimir.
                      Hi Vladimir,
                      thanks for the stuff you posted here.

                      What's your email address ?

                      Best regards,
                      Max

                      Comment


                      • Hi MAX.
                        [email protected]
                        http://www.md4u.ru/forum/profile.php...wprofile&u=455
                        Best regards.
                        Vladimir.

                        Comment


                        • Hi Max.
                          Thanks for the circuit. But I have these circuits for a long time. Photos of PCB are necessary for me.
                          I cannot be registered at this forum. I do not know why, but he does not accept mine Mail.
                          Best regards.
                          Vladimir.

                          Comment


                          • king cobra. right side.
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by kt315 View Post
                              king cobra. right side.

                              Hi kt315,
                              have you noticed that components are really similar/equals to tesoro Royal Sabre ones..?

                              Even TIS75!

                              Kind regards,
                              Max

                              Comment


                              • Hi,

                                Hi,
                                Ivconic.
                                I think that there is something wrong.When I have played with this 255x137mm and the TGS suplyed directly with ac/dc adapter the results were good,BUT I have noticed that my resistance is aweys HIGHER than yours?!?!?!?!
                                Why?I am shore that I use 0,25mm without varnish/and 0,27 with varnish/!
                                But for both coils I get higher resistance.
                                For 19cm TX=141 anr RX=150 I get 26 and 27ohm,but you say that it should be between 19 and 22.

                                p.s.what battery did you use?

                                Comment

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