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Respecting induced voltages;
I have Troy Shadow X3 concentric coplanar coil here with me, also 20cm Fisher coil (came with 1266) also concentric coplanar...So, just to be sure how to null properly, i put those two on tests. As oscilator i used the one from Classic III and after that repeated with this one from TGSL.
On both original coils i measured 0.000mV. Of course tested all possible combinations coil to oscillator. Although my oscilloscope is old and obsolete, i also measured with it...same..zero induction. So, this is not about multimeter accuracy or osciloscope accuracy at all. Respecting this i decided to try to null my coils as close as possible to zero induction. At the very beggining i beleived it is impossible. But thanks to Max's suggestion to put capacitor parallel to RX, finally i founded proper way how to null those to zero.
As i posted above (although very confusing) first perform nulling without capacitor, just to close it enough not to induce much of voltage...as less as possible. In my case it was arround 0.009mV. Than add capacitor to raise a bit voltage, usually to 0.012 to 0.015mV. Than very carefully squeeze short parts of one of the coils and glue that spot with melted plastic.Holded until chill good (due relative movements). Usually when i hold it to chill, it reads 0.000mV. But than when i release it it raise a bit...to 0.001mV. So again, very,very carefully i press some of coils softly to make it to read 0.000mV, and again glue that spot with melted plastic. When chilled again release and wait minute or two to see if it will raise or not. Usually it takes 2 or 3 backs to achieve absolute zero (again, if multimeter is accurate...?)...When it is finished, than i fill it up with mentioned 2 component pitch and let to dry for some hours...And that is all...
I can accept that multimeter is not absolute accurate, but this is as closest as possible (in my conditions) method to null coil so far.
I have Troy Shadow X3 concentric coplanar coil here with me, also 20cm Fisher coil (came with 1266) also concentric coplanar...So, just to be sure how to null properly, i put those two on tests. As oscilator i used the one from Classic III and after that repeated with this one from TGSL.
On both original coils i measured 0.000mV. Of course tested all possible combinations coil to oscillator. Although my oscilloscope is old and obsolete, i also measured with it...same..zero induction. So, this is not about multimeter accuracy or osciloscope accuracy at all. Respecting this i decided to try to null my coils as close as possible to zero induction. At the very beggining i beleived it is impossible. But thanks to Max's suggestion to put capacitor parallel to RX, finally i founded proper way how to null those to zero.
As i posted above (although very confusing) first perform nulling without capacitor, just to close it enough not to induce much of voltage...as less as possible. In my case it was arround 0.009mV. Than add capacitor to raise a bit voltage, usually to 0.012 to 0.015mV. Than very carefully squeeze short parts of one of the coils and glue that spot with melted plastic.Holded until chill good (due relative movements). Usually when i hold it to chill, it reads 0.000mV. But than when i release it it raise a bit...to 0.001mV. So again, very,very carefully i press some of coils softly to make it to read 0.000mV, and again glue that spot with melted plastic. When chilled again release and wait minute or two to see if it will raise or not. Usually it takes 2 or 3 backs to achieve absolute zero (again, if multimeter is accurate...?)...When it is finished, than i fill it up with mentioned 2 component pitch and let to dry for some hours...And that is all...
I can accept that multimeter is not absolute accurate, but this is as closest as possible (in my conditions) method to null coil so far.
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