TESORO GOLDEN SABRE

[matrix]

Thank You again satdaveuk, for support beginners here on this six year old page.
of course You in England will also connivance our poor English, and help us with great patience.

best wishes
M

[paku]

thanks satdaveuk, matrik, for the support
now i get from shop is C557B and F256B can i use it

[paku]

sory i dont no read the Schmatic
i just know about component
what is the capacitor value on that picture

[satdaveuk]

Your looking at C14 and C17 on the circuit diagram which are both correctly valued as 4.7MFD bipolar capacitors which means they are electrolytic type capacitors without the +/- poles.
If you look to the left bottom of the circuit diagram there are two 10mfd electrolytic capacitors that are polarized IE they have a + and - polarity.
By putting them in series back to back you have created a non polarized capacitor at 5MFD which many on here have used as a substitute.
Don't want to get to technical here but because of the tolerance boundary which is .01% or less in these builds by using two capacitors in series giving you 5MFD automatically puts you out of tolerance but further more to that the non polarized electrolytic is constructed differently and when manufactures implement using two series electrolytic capacitors they often if not always do circuit changes to accommodate so theres more to it than meets the eye although disputes and opinions have been thrashed about for years on the subject its down to every engineers opinion.
I personal always go by the code of practice indeed thats the way I was trained where ever possible strictly stick to manufactures specification and you wont go far wrong.
Once you have the build up and running to spec then thats when you can start experimenting things like Eduardo modifications because you have something correctly built to work from but as I said previously just because a modification works on his doesn't mean it will work on yours because his overall spec may well be different to yours.
If something isn't built correctly in the first place you can mod it as much as you like but I guarantee you will be shooting up your rear for ever more and end up with nothing more than a toy that will not have any practical use at all.
Regards

[Jerry]

Your looking at C14 and C17 on the circuit diagram which are both correctly valued as 4.7MFD bipolar capacitors which means they are electrolytic type capacitors without the +/- poles.

Regards

I think the lines are pointing to C-13 and C-16 which are .022 uf . The 4.7 electrolytic s are shown as circles above and below.

Dont have my board layout picture handy right now but I am pretty sure that is what it is and will update if I find that is not the case.

Jerry

[satdaveuk]

I think the lines are pointing to C-13 and C-16 which are .022 uf . The 4.7 electrolytic s are shown as circles above and below.

Dont have my board layout picture handy right now but I am pretty sure that is what it is and will update if I find that is not the case.

Jerry

Your right Jerry 22NF
I must be going potty

[paku]

Thanks Guru-guru In Here

[paku]

Help i have finish my TGSL but have problem when i put the 12v battery i just got sound from speaker click and just silence

[paku]

Ok This My My TGSL



Dit I Make Rong circuit

[satdaveuk]

Ok This My My TGSL

[ATTACH]23746[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23747[/ATTACH]
Dit I Make Rong circuit

To be serious Paku you need to learn how to solder, in the trade we call that bird **** because it looks as though a bird has **** on it from a great hight.
In normal circumstances I would say check your oscillator circuit but that build is proberly riddled with faults firstly just to name a few, its quite evident in certain areas that you have been on way to long with the soldering iron , and the rest instead of allowing the solder to flow through the component wires in one motion on/off finished you have been dabbing it and not allowing the solder to flow.
Before you go any further clean the burnt flux off first by scratching with small screw driver blade then use tooth brush with non lubricated switch cleaner unless you have any industrial alcohol to hand.
After that repost picture so we can see it properly.

[paku]

ok thanks BOS i will make new board and new component an i will try make new one
clean and clear board like mirror hehehe!!!

[golfnut]

Paku.

Turn the Threshold pot to zero,
Turn the Disc pot fully to zero and then wave a large Iron target close to coil


There is a chance you wired one or all of the pots backwards, repeat with pots at max//



If nothing, then,

Do you have access to a multimeter?


If you do -
1) Check the supplies postive + and negative -
2) Measure the AC voltage across your Tx coil


Dont use a phone to take the .jpg images as they are not good enough - these images are of no practical use.

Offer up a small speaker to you Tx coil - can you hear sound from the speaker?


My experience of leaving flux on a unit is - No effect - I think its a bit of an engineering myth. ( Sorry Dave - your right it is unsightly and obsures detail for us trying to help )


Steve

[paku]

update

thanks bro i will try that

[satdaveuk]

ok thanks BOS i will make new board and new component an i will try make new one
clean and clear board like mirror hehehe!!!

lol nice to have a giggle now and then.

If you want to learn how to be good at soldering then do this:
Go down your local hardwear shop and buy some small copper panel pins and nail them into a block of wood at random with about 5mm still showing ( lightly scrape with sharp knife as you would with component leads before installing them)
Then strip the insulation off some old wire around .5mm will do the trick
Get the striped wire and clean if nessary then do one turn around the first nail and move to the second nail and so forth until all pins have a turn each round them joining together.

Soldering: When iron is at its operating temprature and not before wipe iron tip with damp sponge followed by a light tinning of solder which should just cover the tip soldering surface (if you put to much on it will give you a blob on the end which is no good, just a quick jolt of the iron into bin or something will release excess solder.
The solder you use if old and dull clean in same manner as ive described earlier although fine sandpaper is quicker.
When soldering a joint the tip of the iron needs to be directed at the pcb and the component wire (not the solder) feed the solder onto the joins you are soldering which in this case is the pin and the wire.
I was trained to solder this way back when 8-9 years old and practised for weeks on end , got through hundreds of nails and old wire until I was told that my soldering was up to scratch.
Every solder joint you make in this way do continuity checks for high resistance joints and dry joints.
A typical well soldered joint should be smooth with no spikes and no blobs.
A blob is where the engineer has either used to much solder or the solder hasnt run correctly into the joins.
Joins with spikes is often due to dabbing the iron and solder or applieing solder to the iron instead of the join.
A typical time of soldering a component onto a pcb should be no longer than1.5 seconds, if longer is required you either have not cleaned one of the surfaces or you cant solder properly.
The golden rule is : all soldering joints must be spotless and the tip of the iron clean and tinned, When actually soldering its( heat -feed solder-finished) .
Once you get into the habbit you will know if its a good solder join before your iron is lifted because you get a feel for it.
Keep practising

[satdaveuk]

Paku.

Turn the Threshold pot to zero,
Turn the Disc pot fully to zero and then wave a large Iron target close to coil


There is a chance you wired one or all of the pots backwards, repeat with pots at max//



If nothing, then,

Do you have access to a multimeter?


If you do -
1) Check the supplies postive + and negative -
2) Measure the AC voltage across your Tx coil


Dont use a phone to take the .jpg images as they are not good enough - these images are of no practical use.

Offer up a small speaker to you Tx coil - can you hear sound from the speaker?


My experience of leaving flux on a unit is - No effect - I think its a bit of an engineering myth. ( Sorry Dave - your right it is unsightly and obsures detail for us trying to help )


Steve

Hi steve
I always clean up after not just for technical reasons but because its looks like a engineer has done the job and not the next door nabour if you get my drift.
Also if you have got other faults after doing a repair its allot easer to work on a tidy clean circuit board.
Paku soldering is just down to lack of experience and proberly never been fortunate enough to be shown how to do it.
Getting trained next to a good well wethered engineer on the workbench is still really the only way to learn.