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  • so that is 2.2uf 4 pcs

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    • hello paku

      where did you find this layout can you give me link
      or would you send me the sprint layout file via email?

      i´m going to etch some boards fore some other project this weekend
      maybe i can do some too from tgsl

      layout looks very good

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      • i dont remember where i get but i will send to you friend
        now im still assamble the resistor will finish today

        give me your email

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        • "so that is 2.2uf 4 pcs"
          Yes. 4 2.2uf nonpolarized caps. The layout guy must have figured it was easier to get
          those in nonpolarized. That is a different layout.

          I have a full SMT one. Here it is;
          Attached Files

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          • tgsl.zip
            Attached Files

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            • do you have the shematic

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              • No schematic, it came as a lay file. I assume it is the same as TGSL Edu but maybe slight changes
                like the 4.7UF caps and Gain in the first stage...

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                • i still not finish my board so i dont know its relly same or not bro i have make 6 TGSL board hahah i dont get best result so i want test this one

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                  • made some boards today
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                    all through hole connectors get a single pad on top side (adhesive copper foil) where i connect the with a wire
                    that should save me a double layer board

                    p.s .
                    paku i will search my archive for pp circuit

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                    • I have batteries (3.6V) total 10,8 V ... can I add another one ... total 14,4 V ?
                      Can TGSL work stable with 10,8V ?

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                      • Well you can but the regulator might get a bit hot. I'd put a heatsink on it.
                        If you have a LDO 8v regulator the 10.8v will be fine. With a regular regulator
                        use the higher voltage as they work with 2.5v above the output voltage.

                        I changed mine to use +- 5V like the Bandito but lost a lot of depth so I'll
                        use a MAX667 set to 7V and a 7660 to make the -v. I'm thinking this will
                        produce less noise by not having a 4024 in the circuit...

                        I should still be able to use a 9v battery if all goes well!

                        My TGSL is an experimental platform anyways. I'd like to investigate what
                        happens when you narrow the GEB and Disc pulses. It seems like I get great
                        depth with the GEB misadjusted so maybe a narrow pulse will let more signal through?

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                        • You are artist - your detector is your canvas

                          My 8V regulator is L7808CV

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                          • Originally posted by bernte_one View Post
                            made some boards today
                            [ATTACH]30900[/ATTACH]
                            [ATTACH]30901[/ATTACH]

                            all through hole connectors get a single pad on top side (adhesive copper foil) where i connect the with a wire
                            that should save me a double layer board

                            p.s .
                            paku i will search my archive for pp circuit
                            ok thanks bro
                            very nice board bro today i will finish my board im still need buy 20k smt resistor
                            then test the board working or not

                            Comment


                            • Years ago, I used to make all my PCBs myself, I had a really good etching system, expensive one, that I bought cheaply in an open air market, probably 30 years ago....and thru hole plating was somthing I did not even attempt! Getting the pads on the top and bottom properly aligned kept me busy at first!!
                              So as I also usually designed the layouts, I simply made sure that I connected at the pin or leg of various components to automatically make the connection and I soldered both top and bottom of the PCB.
                              Chip sockets can be a problem with getting to the top of the leg to solder, so I always bought the ones with long legs, for wiring using a wrap gun I believe, and set them probably 5mm or so higher than "normal" simply by slipping a piece of card or plastic under the socket, then soldering two opposite end legs. Take the card out, align the socket parallel to the PCB by melting one soldered leg and moving it slightly. Then soldering all the legs both at the top and the bottom.
                              The circuits I usually built were not sensitive to using sockets, nor to the slightly higher position on the PCB, whereas some "better" and more modern circuits may be more sensitive....so be circumspect...
                              Its surprising just how easy it is to slightly change a design to allow double sided boards to be made at home, without any true thru hole vias.....they may work out a tiny bit larger to allow soldering on both sides.....but if you are really careful, this should not be a problem....
                              Even having boards made, money can be possibly saved by not having the vias, though for one offs, the savings would be probably quite small. I have never had professional boards, "made", only simply bought "their" finished product!! Just a thought though!!
                              Have a great day out there all of you!!
                              regards
                              Andy

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                              • hello paku

                                any news, is it working?

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